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New Samuelsohn MTM suit fit - advice?

dlj02000

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Hi everyone,

It's been a really long time since I was last hanging around here...proud owner of three suits by Thick As Thieves, but all were purchased many, many years ago and I've been eager to try the Samuelsohn MTM experience at a really nice men's clothing store near my house.

Here's the finished product after two further rounds of tailoring at the store. I really like it, but there's a few things I've noticed that are different from the Thick As Thieves cut, and I'm getting used to these differences. One is that the breast pocket on the Samuelsohn is about 1.5" lower on the jacket than the breast pocket on the Thick as Thieves jackets. I think it still looks fine, but I'm a short guy and want to make sure it doesn't look out of whack as I'm used to a higher breast pocket. The armholes are also not cut quite as high & tight, but I think it's still acceptable - I'm certainly not swimming in it. Finally - the bottom of the jacket seems to be at more of a sharp angle than I'm used to, but I'm getting used to it. I guess I'm used to that part of the jacket (the skirt?) being more of a gradual curve than a sharper angle.

Overall...what do you think? Any further alterations you'd make? Does the height of the breast pocket look OK, and how about the armholes?

Thanks for the advice!
 

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Ben W

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There are a few things I spotted:
  • The rotation of the sleeves looks to be a bit off. When you are standing straight and looking at yourself from the side there shouldn't be any wrinkling at the top of the sleeve, like you have in photo #2. It isn't off by a lot, and it is a major job to fix, so probably not worth while.
  • The button stance looks high especially when compared with the rise of the trousers. Are the trousers cut to be worn at the natural waist (at or just below the navel)? You have a large gap between the top button of the jacket and the top of the trouser waist. This probably cannot be fixed at this stage.
  • The jacket is too short. It should cover your rear-end completely. Again this probably cannot be fixed at this stage.
The breast pocket looks to be at a good level for you. I'm not sure I see what you are talking about with the angle of the skirt, so that is probably fine too. The armholes don't seem unreasonable as long as you have the freedom of motion that you'd expect to have. Overall I would not be unhappy with this suit, but I think those are the things I'd keep in mind for the next one.
 

dlj02000

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Thanks so much! Appreciate your feedback. Had noticed the sleeve thing as well - just on the left one, not the right one, for some reason. Definitely agree with you - seems minor and not worth a huge hassle.

As far as the length of the jacket, given that I'm a short guy, I always err on the side of having the jacket be slightly on the short side as well - even though it does technically violate the "rules," I just feel more comfortable that way.

I think you're right on about the button stance - something had seemed slightly off but I couldn't quite put my finger on it. Now that you've pointed it out, I see what you mean. Again, not a major issue but if I do Samuelsohn MTM again I'll definitely make sure it gets addressed with the next suit.

Thanks again - really appreciate your expertise!
 

Ben W

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Thanks so much! Appreciate your feedback. Had noticed the sleeve thing as well - just on the left one, not the right one, for some reason. Definitely agree with you - seems minor and not worth a huge hassle.

As far as the length of the jacket, given that I'm a short guy, I always err on the side of having the jacket be slightly on the short side as well - even though it does technically violate the "rules," I just feel more comfortable that way.

I think you're right on about the button stance - something had seemed slightly off but I couldn't quite put my finger on it. Now that you've pointed it out, I see what you mean. Again, not a major issue but if I do Samuelsohn MTM again I'll definitely make sure it gets addressed with the next suit.

Thanks again - really appreciate your expertise!
Happy to help! I get what you're saying about the jacket length. Ultimately it's about what you're comfortable with and confident in. If you prefer it shorter there's nothing wrong with that. The difficulty I see is that a lot of tailors have picked up on the trend of shorter jackets and are doing it even where it doesn't make sense.
 

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