NEW! Possible definition of 'broad shoulders'

[holymadness]

My hypothesis: shoulders aren't broad on their own, or in relation to waist, but in relation to chest.

My chest measures 40 inches, so I wear jackets that are 42" in the chest. The catch is that I also need 19" from shoulder seam to seam. Anything smaller and I can't move in it; my range of motion leaves me looking like a French mime while the sleeves ride six inches up my arms.

Try to find that combo on a sport coat. On B&S, it's one in a hundred pieces in size 40R/L. Size 40 jackets generally have 18-18.5" shoulders. Even on 42s, they often don't exceed 18.75", and then they're far too baggy in the front. Interestingly, the one exception to this rule in my experience seems to be Canali, who like to cut their suits roomier in the back.

In any event, it's infuriating. It's TOTAL BS, in fact. Of course, this may just mean that I have an underdeveloped pigeon chest in relation to my bone structure and that a few more benchpresses would catapult me happily into 42R/L range, but I refuse to change myself for the sake of an industry that panders to narrow-bodied pipecleaner physiques.

What do you think, does this definition work, or am I just "special"? And while we're at it, anyone have this same problem? Any working solutions out there?

 

[Nicola]

That's not a new definition. One of the tailors posted that "normal" is a 6 to 9" difference between chest size and shoulder. So if you've got 40" chest 49" shoulders put you in the broad shoulder area.

I'm right at 9". All I can say some brands work better then others. Of course there is MTM.

 

[holymadness]

Originally Posted by Nicola

That's not a new definition. One of the tailors posted that "normal" is a 6 to 9" difference between chest size and shoulder. So if you've got 40" chest 49" shoulders put you in the broad shoulder area.
Aha, some validation! Glad to find out about this, even if it makes my discovery significantly less groundbreaking. I think I still deserve some small credit for coming up with it independently.

I'm right at 9". All I can say some brands work better then others. Of course there is MTM.

I've just placed a measuring tape around the top of my torso, overtop of my biceps and shoulder blades. Exactly 49". Rats. MTM mocks my annual income. But if there are other wide-shouldered brands out there aside from Canali, do let me know.

 

[Dewey]

It seems to me that 19" on a 40R is more common than 18" because less expensive makers err on the side of too big. I like 18.5" and 42" and find too many jackets are too broad in the shoulders. I believe I'm 46 over the shoulders and just under 40 around the chest. Maybe 40 if I do a bunch of push-ups first.

You should be good in most Brooks Brothers, Samuelsohn, Southwick. You can't have the sides taken in on a Madison cut, for example? I think the Madison is 19" and 43" or 44" in the 40R.

Or maybe the moral of the story is that everyone gets frustrated, no matter how easy a fit they should be.

 

[Nicola]

Ya I find that to. Cheaper or at least cuts aimed at the less youthful look. I often have to go up a size if it's cut closer to the body.

OTOH last week I picked up a jacket from a local satoria perfect in the shoulder but almost too tight in the chest. I've never seen that.

 

[holymadness]

I was under the impression that having the chest slimmed down by a tailor was a bad idea, as it disturbed the balance of the suit. Is that not true?

I have an 8" drop, so I always need the waist taken in.

 

[a tailor]

Originally Posted by holymadness

I was under the impression that having the chest slimmed down by a tailor was a bad idea, as it disturbed the balance of the suit. Is that not true?

I have an 8" drop, so I always need the waist taken in.

if you are going the multi alterations route and all that cost. the alteration cost may put you in the m2m range. in m2m the store pays for alterations.

 

[Sebastian]

Well, you seem to be the guy, all my too-broad-shouldered jackets for the German market aim at...

Seriously. In German menswear it's hard to find shoulders under 19,5" on sportscoats and suits.

Maybe you should try Ebay.de for a thrift search...

Eduard Dressler or Windsor, maybe also Van Laack are some (more or less) decent makers, which should fulfill your needs...

 

[merkur]

..

 

[holymadness]

Originally Posted by Sebastian

Well, you seem to be the guy, all my too-broad-shouldered jackets for the German market aim at... Seriously. In German menswear it's hard to find shoulders under 19,5" on sportscoats and suits. Maybe you should try Ebay.de for a thrift search... Eduard Dressler or Windsor, maybe also Van Laack are some (more or less) decent makers, which should fulfill your needs...
Never heard of these guys, but good tips! I have no problem describing myself as some kind of Teutonic übermensch.

Originally Posted by merkur

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=93995
Some choice bits:

I wonder how many people think they have broad shoulders but really have a teeny tiny head.

- Dewey

- AndrewRogers jeffryd's comments are the most helpful, though.