New Oxxford MTM suit - from bad to good

[zjpj83]

I was fitted at the old store on 57th. Subsequent fittings were at 56th.

So, the bad - I placed the order on July. It's taken all this time to make it right. The jacket was too big in the waist and chest - a problem that has since been fixed. After three fittings, one shoulder still has a ripple in the fabric - a problem I have in all RTW garments because of my body, but not one I thought would occur in MTM Oxxford, with their shoulder angle measurements. The pants (I got two pairs) after three fittings still pull significantly in the crotch area. They let out the seat, and there was still pulling. It took them many different fittings of raising the waistband, and that problem get fixed. The shoulder problem continued, like there was a bubble under the fabric by the collar. The tailors kept trying to take in the fabric along the shoulder seem. However, this wasn't solving the problem. When I went back today, the bubble was still there. Then I had an idea - there was too much fabric by the collar, so lower the collar there. The tailor took it in the back and sure enough, that did the trick. Lowering the collar did the trick and the ripple went away. So, at long last, I had my suit!

The good - It took a while, but damn, what a great suit. I'm very happy. I got the Gibbons, two button, two vents jacket. Two pairs of pants, one flat front with belt loops, one with braces, double forward pleats, and a higher than normal rise. I got a blue paisley lining. I'm very happy with teh suit.

Would I order again? Very unlikely. For not much more you can get true bespoke, and I think that my shoulder issues would be dealt with much better than they were by Oxxford.

 

[kronik]

If I may be so bold, how much did this run you?

 

[The_Foxx]

damn, sorry to hear your experience didn't go well enough for return business at Oxxford MTM. I had a chance to finally try on the suit oxxford made for me, but all i did was get a stock-radcliff in 42short with 34" trousers. I'm a pretty basic fit, no major alterations unless i wear the trousers on my hips without braces.

I got mine from one of my new favorite websites, which carries oxxford, brioni, and some talbott items. pretty cool-- i'm thinking about buying an overpriced Brioni sky blue shirt from them, to go with the upcoming suit i ordered at bergdorf.

www.directclothiers.com

by the way, one of the suits bergdorf put on me after getting done with the brioni was castagnia (also MTM avail, of course). looked like a pretty cool suit, might be something to consider in your next MTM purchase.

 

[zjpj83]

I will take pics tomorrow!

 

[von Rothbart]

Sorry to hear the process wasn't as smooth as you'd like, but as long as you're happy with the end result. What clothes did you choose? Can't wait for the pictures.

 

[Jovan]

Would I order again? Very unlikely. For not much more you can get true bespoke, and I think that my shoulder issues would be dealt with much better than they were by Oxxford.

There is no way KB can speak out against bespoke now.

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by zjpj83

Would I order again? Very unlikely. For not much more you can get true bespoke, and I think that my shoulder issues would be dealt with much better than they were by Oxxford.

It is hard to do better than Oxxford without going bespoke.

I always had collar issues but never do anymore. I think that it takes a few fittings with a basted on collar to get it really perfect, but once it is there, no jacket will ever feel more comfortable. That is what I worry about with the travelling tailors, including the ones from SR. Having that second basted fitting makes life so much easier.

 

[zjpj83]

Originally Posted by iammatt

It is hard to do better than Oxxford without going bespoke.

I always had collar issues but never do anymore. I think that it takes a few fittings with a basted on collar to get it really perfect, but once it is there, no jacket will ever feel more comfortable. That is what I worry about with the travelling tailors, including the ones from SR. Having that second basted fitting makes life so much easier.
I agree. I am happy using a traveling bespoke shoe maker. But for clothing, I think it's really important to have someone local so that you can go to as many fittings as possible and as needed without having to wait years for a garment.

 

[Jovan]

So unfortunate that Gainesville has nothing but alterations tailors.

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by Jovan

So unfortunate that Gainesville has nothing but alterations tailors.
Better than San Francisco. I bought a few pairs of khakis or chinos or whatever at Neiman Marcus last week and figured that it was well within their ability to shorten them. The tailor was kind of stubborn about length, but I finally got him to mark them exactly where I wanted them and with a 2" cuff. When I picked them up yesterday, the cuff was 1.75 which was what he had suggested, and the pants were all 2 inches too long. They weren't even close.

 

[minimal]

Ooof. I know you ended up with the suit fitting, but *that* many fittings? Even for the pants? And at the flagship store, this is, not a local reseller...

I've been planning to get an suit from them. But I feel that I often fighting the reality of the situation. It doesn't matter how much hand-stitching there is, if they can't get the fit right.

Thank you very much for posting your experience. At least I'll go into it prepared for more than 2 post-order fittings. My past experience has been that if the tailor can't get it right in 3 visits total, they never will and that it's an "ideological" issue.

Concerned,

Minimal.

 

[Jovan]

Originally Posted by iammatt

Better than San Francisco. I bought a few pairs of khakis or chinos or whatever at Neiman Marcus last week and figured that it was well within their ability to shorten them. The tailor was kind of stubborn about length, but I finally got him to mark them exactly where I wanted them and with a 2" cuff. When I picked them up yesterday, the cuff was 1.75 which was what he had suggested, and the pants were all 2 inches too long. They weren't even close.
See, this is where an artistan's liberties -- which you and I discussed in another thread -- get pretty ridiculous. It's not that big a deal to make trouser cuffs a fourth of an inch wider, and it's even worse if they don't even hem to the correct length. Luckily, my mother can alter the inseam of and cuff trousers with relative ease and I don't have to pay for it. Of course, I won't always have her around.

 

[jml90]

Originally Posted by iammatt

Better than San Francisco.

I bought a few pairs of khakis or chinos or whatever at Neiman Marcus last week and figured that it was well within their ability to shorten them. The tailor was kind of stubborn about length, but I finally got him to mark them exactly where I wanted them and with a 2" cuff. When I picked them up yesterday, the cuff was 1.75 which was what he had suggested, and the pants were all 2 inches too long. They weren't even close.

I know what you mean but, the pants usually aren't too long.

 

[zjpj83]

Custom clothes hangers are very cool

 

[zjpj83]

Second pair of trousers - flat front