New Object Research - The Aitor Throup Thread

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Feb 1, 2013.

  1. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Pretty cool video with Aitor talking about what he means when he says he prefers "designing processes" to designing products.


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    and also, time lapse video via Oki-ni of Aitor digitally drawing one of the sketches they have for sale.


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  2. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Complex interview Aitor Throup about his work process, influences and the Umbro Archive Research Project collaboration.

    Interview: Aitor Throup Talks Sportswear, Superheroes, and Umbro Archive Research Project
    September 7 2011

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  3. sipang

    sipang Senior member

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    His interviews are always such a pleasure to read. It's never about abstract ideas or about pure craft but how the two can articulate very concretely, it's so rewarding compared to the usual drivel we usually get (often even from otherwise interesting designers).
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2013


  4. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Some photos from the H. Lorenzo launch event of the Shiva skull bag. Damn, I really want Aitor's jacket. It was the multi-pocket one at the AW13 showing :drool:

    Photos via hypebeast.com and the H Lorenzo twitter feed.


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    EDIT - Damn, Aitor looks really tired in these pics. Not surprised though, I am pretty sure he has been involved in all of the installations. The jet lag alone would be killer, not to mention the actual work of putting it all together.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2013


  5. pickpackpockpuck

    pickpackpockpuck Senior member

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    "We’re effectively branding through construction — even if we didn’t put an Umbro logo on there, the idea is that you can tell that’s an Umbro A.R.P. garment, and that’s what we’re interested in doing is building focus and equity into the way garments are made rather than the way garments are branded."

    I've had a hard time really getting into Aitor. No emotional connection to his stuff, I guess. But this idea is very smart, and when I read that I suddenly kinda got what he's about. Reminds me of Margiela in that way. Good interview.
     


  6. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Yeah, like sipang said he really does good interviews. I guess it is because unlike a lot of other designers he really took time to sit down and think about the what and why of his work as a designer. Since everything is basically kind of planned out ahead of time by his drawings and every little detail has a reason for existing, he is not working mostly on intuition (and lots of experience and or skill with the craft) or mood boards, which of course by their nature are pretty abstract.

    I remember that my response to seeing his clothing and sketches, way before I actually read up on him, was really visceral. It clicked immediately. It was like, this was what I was looking for all along. Clothing "made" from stories. It really captures for me why he makes such a big deal about presenting his clothing with all the context laid bare for everyone to see. The narrative text must be there, the mannequins in the right poses, the ambient sculptures surrounding the space, the drawings, all that stuff really fires the imagination and communicates what he is doing on a deeper level. Of course, the construction and all that are pretty amazing on their own and one can enjoy the clothing for that, but I think if one only sees that there is a limit to how deeply his clothing can get to you. At least in my case anyway. It would seem pretty distant and a bit cold even.

    There was something he said in an interview posted on here where he says that by designing his process, he basically has to do no work on the actual product design itself since he is just following cues/instructions from his process. It made me think of various writers who say that when they write they are basically kind of channeling something other than themselves. Like Alan Moore referring to writers as shaman altering reality. Aitor Throup is like the designer version of a writer/shaman to me in a way. Actually bringing into reality pieces from stories.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2013


  7. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Hypebeast Magazine Issue #4 has a feature on Aitor Throup:


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    Is anyone picking up an issue? The cover feature is on Hedi Slimane, but the Throup feature looks like it could be worth it if the image below was an outtake:


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    Will see if I can get my hands on it and do a scan.
     


  8. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Just received my Shiva skull bag from DSM (with help from dantebykiko :)).

    First impressions mirror those of jwjp. Definitely very impressed. After all the anticipation, it is pretty remarkable that Aitor and his team could make something that lived up to the hype. I also like the fact that it looks handmade and not mass manufactured - the little brand label inside and the production number are the most obvious.

    It is a lot lighter than I thought it would be (which at the moment I am not sure whether I prefer to if it weighed a bit more - like it was made from horse leather or something).

    Here are some grainy iPhone pics of the bag itself and me wearing it around. The black and pinstripe I picked up is actually pretty discreet especially clipped to my belt loop like in the picture. Been walking around and no one has commented on the fact that I am carrying a black skull on my hip, hehe. The straps make it more noticeable for sure though - really like that there are so many options for wearing it too.

    Will update with better pics and it being worn later in the week once I have access to my camera.


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  9. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Someone get on this!


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  10. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Senior member

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    looks dope.

    ps: aitor its not human. we did DSM till 5-6 am and next day he was moving house and next day travelling to LA.


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    Last edited: Mar 18, 2013


  11. slstr

    slstr Senior member

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    My friend did an internship with Aitor last year and she said it was brilliant, I would love to apply to that but university... agh.
     


  12. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    As promised. Better pics of the bag itself (thought I would still upload these since the black & pinstripe iteration is not readily available online to see) and me wearing it today.

    It comfortably carries my Olympus EP-2 and my wallet in the main compartment. The secondary compartment is suitable for keys or cash as I am using it for here.

    Two things make this a lot more wearable in my opinion than it looks at first glance.

    1. The use of suiting wool is really an inspired choice. It "softens" the impact of the skull shape itself and provides a point of reference for people to get distracted with
    2. It is such an unexpected thing to see so people tend to fill in the gap as it were when they see it in person. I had quite a few people tell me that they thought it was a face cap of some sort. Even placed on my table at the office a lot of people tend to not notice it until they look at it from the front or full on from the side. Viewing it from the back or at an angle seems to fool the eyes somewhat.

    I guess it also helps that I am wearing it against black as well.



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  13. dantebykiko

    dantebykiko Senior member

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    you can wear it as backpack too. with two straps =) also usually worn upside down.
     


  14. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Yeah I tried it as a backpack as well :). I find it is easier for me to wear it with a single strap right side up so I can reach the zipper without much manipulation of the body itself.

    Worn as a backpack makes it look pretty badass! Now I want the skull backpack, lol.
     


  15. SuEd

    SuEd Senior member

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    Is there a list of all the Aitor Throup items that have made it to retail?
     


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