New Object Research - The Aitor Throup Thread

[Ivwri]

Dover Street Market exhibition -

Via

EDIT - Looks like the Shiva skull bag is going to cost about €1,150. The grey tweed version is already showing as out of stock on the Rail site, but the lead tweed's still in stock.

EDIT 2 -

 

[Ivwri]

Well, today is Shiva Skull Bag day and while some stores have sold out already, there are still quite a few online retailers that have them.

Oki-ni, Antonioli and Rails all have the Shiva skull bag in either both black and grey tweed or just one of these colours.

Spoiler: Full list of stockists

Beijing | I.T Beijing Market www.ithk.com
Brescia | Rail www.railso.com
Hong Kong | I.T Hong Kong www.ithk.com
Paris | L’Eclaireur Rue Hérold www.leclaireur.com
London | Dover Street Market www.doverstreetmarket.com
Los Angeles | H Lorenzo www.hlorenzo.com
Milan | Antonioli www.antonioli.eu
New York | Atelier New York www.ateliernewyork.com
Tokyo | Dover Street Market Ginza www.doverstreetmarket.com
Online | www.oki-ni.com

Taken from the description on Oki-ni.com -

The first design archetype from the innovative designers New Object Research brand, the Shiva Skull Bag sees a generic military satchel morph into an anatomically correct human skull, representing the destructive form of the Hindu God, Shiva. This item is 1 of only 100 produced worldwide.

Starting from first principles, Aitor has created a number of new techniques and production processes specifically for this item. The first of these is the unique edge-to-edge construction that creates a flush seam, inside and out, at every join.

Crafted from beautiful worsted wool, traditionally used in suiting, the bag has a soft feel and a wonderful texture. The wool has been strengthened via a unique bonding process, with rubberised cotton attached to the back. This creates a rigid composite, allowing the bag to take its distinct shape.

Functionally, the Shiva Skull Bag operates just like a normal bag. A reverse coil waterproof zip on the top gives access to the main compartment, which fills the majority of the skull. The second, smaller compartment is accessed via the zip on the mouth and can be used to store smaller items. A special mention should be given to the zip garage on the mouth zip. This is a place where the zip can be safely tucked away when open or closed, but it also mirrors the function of a tendon, allowing the mouth to naturally open so you can better access the compartment.

A unique arrangement of leather straps, fastened by D-rings and clips, allows the bag to be worn as a rucksack, shoulder bag, or attached to your belt. There are also two removable D-rings that can be added to the temples of the skull for further strap options.

Finally, the bag comes in a specially designed presentation box, complete with a hidden draw so you can safely store the straps and attachments while they are not in use.

all images from Oki-ni.

 

[Lionheart Biker]

I checked the retailers and it seems antonioli has the best price for the bag. Under 1k euros. I think I´d favor the black over the grey.

 

[jwjp]

I'm going down to DSM this morning, where I will hopefully be able to handle one of the bags

 

[Ivwri]



I checked the retailers and it seems antonioli has the best price for the bag. Under 1k euros. I think I´d favor the black over the grey.

Yeah same here. Pretty odd to me how it seems the grey is selling out faster than the black (at least on Oki-ni and Rails). One would think that the bag was already eye-catching enough without needing a lighter colour to further call attention to it. I think the black would also go with more outfits (at least in my wardrobe).

I'm going down to DSM this morning, where I will hopefully be able to handle one of the bags

Looking forward to your feedback .

I am currently in the middle of trying to pick up the black and grey pinstripe version that DSM got - they also got one in a Prince of Wales-style check - and it is proving more nerve-wracking than I thought it would be (it's the last one they have in stock and one of only four made so if I miss out on this that's that). Why they don't just set up an online store with the majority of their stock is beyond me. They could do something similar to what Atelier does and have people send in emails to inquire about items they are interested in and set up payment via wire transfer or what have you.

 

[Ivwri]

It is interesting that the three conceptual narratives Aitor Throup has used for his collections are informed by tragedy of some sort. The first involving the brutal beating and killing of a Hindu boy, the second the flooding and battering of New Orleans by hurricane Katrina and finally the shooting of Jean Charles de Menezes.

I noticed he received some flak from some people online for using Hinduism as the basis for a collection, but even more interesting (as a discussion point), is this article in The Guardian questioning the appropriateness of making clothing inspired by such a tragic event - and for some people, the cost seems to be a major sticking point, although I generally file away such comments as noise most of the time. I am including the article below.

Thoughts?

A designer collection that's designed to shock – and not just with the prices
Some might view turning the tragedy of Jean Charles de Menezes into high fashion as the nadir of taste. The designer does not agree
via The Guardian


There is the "Stockwell denim jacket"; there are the "Stockwell jeans", boasting foot covers made from bulletproof Kevlar; and, most strikingly, a black rucksack in the shape of an upside-down skull.

A range of menswear by Aitor Throup appears designed to shock, inspired by the outfit worn by Jean Charles de Menezes when the innocent Brazilian electrician was shot dead by police at Stockwell underground station in 2005.

Some might view turning tragedy into high fashion (the jeans cost £975; the rucksack is yours for £2,055, and has been selling well at London's Dover Street Market) as the nadir of taste but Throup says his "political fashion" is "hugely respectful" and raises awareness of the dangers of ethnic stereotyping.

"I can only react to things that have had a deep effect on me," says Throup, who was born in Buenos Aires and raised in Burnley. In the tense days following the terrorist attacks of July 2005, he experienced stereotyping first-hand. When fellow Tube passengers saw his dark hair, beard and favourite black rucksack, they hurriedly got off the train.

Throup, who designed England's World Cup 2010 strip and has collaborated with Kasabian and Stone Island as well as creating work in response to Hurricane Katrina in New Orleans, wants his clothing to be "a reminder for people to realise how wrongly you can judge people".

He says: "I see it as a responsibility to remind people just what that [ethnic stereotyping] can mean." Throup says the Kevlar actually has no symbolic link to de Menezes and is simply the best material to use for his new type of jeans, which include integrated footwear. These are typical of his 20-piece range – which launches in January 2013 after six years in the making – in which he is striving to devise truly innovative forms of clothing.Throup, who graduated from the Royal College of Art with a collection inspired by Hinduism and the designer uniforms of football hooligans, says he is "as much of a fine artist as I am a product designer".

– in which he is striving to devise truly innovative forms of clothing.

"It's the beginning of a new universe," he says of his new range. "The concepts I'm working on are so personally and morally important they are much more than a seasonal theme – they are what I want to explore for ever."

 

[jwjp]

Just back from DSM. Looking at the pictures is no match for handling the bags in person. Firstly, they feel seriously bomb-proof - in pictures I thought the sticthing looked almost flimsy but it's a completely different story up-close. The rubber backing is stiff, but flexes easily, always returning to it's original shape. You can really understand why it took Aitor so long to perfect the shape - the material has many idiosyncratic qualities. The backing also amplifies the texture of what would normally be very smooth suiting wool. I handled three make-ups; the Prince of Wales check was my favourite - I love the thin red lines present in the pattern (reminiscent of Throup's logo) and the houndstooth that makes up part of the check. I really liked the pinstripe too (I handled 003/004, I wonder if that will be the one you pick up Ivwri...). The light grey was awesome too, although not quite on the same level. I was surprised by how difficult it was to move the jaw - it's natural position is definitely closed, and I can imagine it could be pain trying to use it sometimes. The zips seem high-quality however. The leather strap and hardware are equally robust, almost aggressively so. Overall it is a subtle yet imposing creation, I think it would take some balls to pull off as an everyday bag.

The sales assistant said they had sold 6 of their allotted 10 already, at £970 each, so Aitor should be doing quite nicely out of this haha

 

[Ivwri]

Thanks for the detailed impressions jwjp.

Funnily enough, the one that dantebykiko handled was also the 003/004. Since DSM said that they only had one more in stock, it is most likely that is the one I will be getting I guess. Was finally able to make a payment so hopefully there are no more issues.

Great to hear that it feels very robust. So many of his items from the feedback I have gotten from various people all seems to be built to withstand some sort of nuclear holocaust. Waterproofing, high end hardware, special buttoning and fastening systems, the works. I guess this is the Massimo Osti influence coming through based on what I have read of the more iconic garments made by the various brands Osti produced under.

Looking forward to receiving it (hopefully I will be able to pull it off and it won't just become a nice feature on my bookshelf or something, lol)

How big would you say the main compartment was? I plan to carry it as my main bag whenever I am going somewhere I don't need to take my iPad. But curious about whether it can take a small camera comfortably.

 

[Lionheart Biker]

I had no idea Aitor was born in Argentina... maybe I could a countryman´s discount

Iwvri, it´s so cool that we´re gonna have someone in the forum with the bag. I look forward to wearing it vicariously through you

@ jwjp, was the bag the only thing available at DSM? Did you manage to find out when the rest of the collection would hit stores?

 

[jwjp]



Thanks for the detailed impressions jwjp.

Funnily enough, the one that dantebykiko handled was also the 003/004. Since DSM said that they only had one more in stock, it is most likely that is the one I will be getting I guess. Was finally able to make a payment so hopefully there are no more issues.

Great to hear that it feels very robust. So many of his items from the feedback I have gotten from various people all seems to be built to withstand some sort of nuclear holocaust. Waterproofing, high end hardware, special buttoning and fastening systems, the works. I guess this is the Massimo Osti influence coming through based on what I have read of the more iconic garments made by the various brands Osti produced under.

Looking forward to receiving it (hopefully I will be able to pull it off and it won't just become a nice feature on my bookshelf or something, lol)

How big would you say the main compartment was? I plan to carry it as my main bag whenever I am going somewhere I don't need to take my iPad. But curious about whether it can take a small camera comfortably.

I would love to see the bags after some serious wear; will the wool wear away over time and reveal the rubber beneath? I have a feeling it will be the sort of thing to age beautifully,

I'm sure if anyone can pull it off it's you

The bag is quite spacious (I'd estimate maybe 4 litres?), it can definitely fit a small-ish camera along with any other day-to-day stuff - phone, keys, a paperback, a snack etc. However I think things would rattle around a bit inside if it isn't full, though I can't say for sure - you might want to keep a small scarf or something inside to cushion the contents.

@ jwjp, was the bag the only thing available at DSM? Did you manage to find out when the rest of the collection would hit stores?

Yep, the bag was the only thing there. As far as I'm aware the rest of the collection will be released to coincide with Autumn/Winter 2013, so it's six months or so away. I could be wrong however. Sadly I was in a bit of a rush today, else I would have stayed longer and asked a few more questions.

 

[Ivwri]

Thanks jwjp .

The SA that helped me with my purchase told me they still had the Stockwell denim jacket in a "L". I didn't ask whether they still had skull backpacks (seriously doubt this) or the jeans.

I wonder whether Aitor is going to release according to the typical SS - FW cycle and so wait about 6 months to release the last collection he showed, or set his own annual release schedule since he has no reason to stick to that schedule (barring production time).

I think everything we have seen so far has been made in his own studio so that will definitely affect the time between collections hitting stores.

I had no idea Aitor was born in Argentina... maybe I could a  countryman´s discount 

Iwvri, it´s so cool that we´re gonna have someone in the forum with the bag. I look forward to wearing it vicariously through you 

@ jwjp, was the bag the only thing available at DSM? Did you manage to find out when the rest of the collection would hit stores?

Haha, you never know Lionheart, he just might hook you up with a discount . Looking forward to receiving the bag. Will definitely post detail shots on here when I get it.

 

[jwjp]

Yes it will be interesting to see what his release schedule will be like. Although he is free to release whenever he wants I can't help but think it would be beneficial for him - from a business point-of-view - to release seasonally, in order to maintain hype/interest, allow stores to plan their orders and have his products available when his clients will have the money to drop on his clothes i.e. at the beginning of the season.

I wonder if it will be possible for him to scale-up his production. These aren't the sort of products your common or garden factory worker can make.

 

[Ivwri]

Yeah he definitely has an issue with being able to scale up his production due to all the specific techniques he has developed as part of his branding through design process. It even showed with the launch of the Shiva bags as I remember the original launch date being put at some point in February originally. This could have been an issue of distribution rather than production though.

If his quantities, quality and hype remain as they are, he could feasibly just slot into the space currently occupied by designers like CCP and Paul Harnden. Those guys seem to release products whenever it suits them and they seem to sell ok (I hear Harnden stuff sells out at stores like DSM before they even properly settle on the rams). I guess he could also stick to the regular fashion schedule as well and pepper the space in-between releases with capsule collections and singular product releases like he just did with the Stockwell capsule collection then the Shiva bag.

Should be an interesting next few years for Aitor for sure. I hope he finds a way to make it work for him.

 

[ZBMtech]

is there any dark grey bag left at DSM?

thank you

 

[reedobandito]

Can't wait to see ivwri rocking that skull bag.


Really looking forward to AT finally beginning to produce buyable goods regularly, hopefully just in time for when I start a real job in 3-4 years