New Object Research - The Aitor Throup Thread

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Ivwri, Feb 1, 2013.

  1. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    In this thread we discuss all things Aitor Throup. Photos of clothing, interviews, construction techniques, fit pics, the eye-watering prices, the works.

    Aitor Throup approaches fashion design like a product designer. Working on refining a particular design over the course of many years and releasing iterations on a core "archetype" when he feels it is ready. This makes his approach fresh in the fashion industry, but also means that his product launches lack the typical "freshness" or "newness" demanded by the industry every season. Over the years of his studio's existence he has endlessly refined and tweaked his various archetypal designs. From the recently released Shiva skull bag (which has existed as a design prototype since his 2006 MA graduation collection) to his distinctive take on the male trouser with the built-in socks, and in some cases shoes. His archetypes are also explored in his drawings with a daily sketch by him appearing on The BREAKS website and on his company's Facebook and Twitter accounts.

    The various archetypes he has have been explored multiple times in his shows, exhibitions and installations over the years culminating in a retrospective in January 2010 titled "Legs" where he showed his different takes on his archetypal trouser via his signature mesh mannequins.

    He just recently showed his AW13/14 collection at London Fashion Week and in Paris it was available to handle in a showroom so now's the time for this thread like sipang pointed out elsewhere.


    BIOGRAPHY (source)

    London based designer Aitor Throup was born in Buenos Aires, Argentina in 1980. He arrived in Burnley, Lancashire in 1992 and it was there that Throup developed a passion for labels such as Stone Island and C.P. Company. Aitor’s interest in these products and his own passion for drawing led him to begin a BA in Fashion Design at Manchester Metropolitan University, where he graduated with first class honors in 2004. In 2006, he completed an MA in Fashion Menswear at the Royal College of Art in London.
    Throup’s MA graduate collection ‘When Football Hooligans Become Hindu Gods’ received wide critical acclaim focusing on its conceptual narrative thread and diverse influences ranging from generic military garments to Hindu symbolism.

    Aitor’s fascination with anatomy is often evident in his figurative drawings. His hand drawn characters and the later development of his sculptural practice form the foundations behind his ‘justified design philosophy’, which highlights the necessity of a reason or function behind all design features.

    He exhibited ‘The Funeral Of New Orleans: Part One’ at London Fashion Week in September 2007. The exhibition defied conventional ways of presenting clothing by showing pieces on life size sculptures created by Throup, each in a different stage of transformation. The exhibition also incorporated a film created in conjunction with SHOWstudio.
    In 2008 Aitor collaborated with Stone Island on two projects presented at Milan Fashion Week: ‘Modular Anatomy’ and ‘Articulated Anatomy’. Aitor Throup and C.P. Company later launched a special 20th anniversary edition of the iconic Goggle Jacket in 2009 (The driving jacket originally designed by Massimo Osti). The re-design featured a fully ergonomic construction, based on a life-size sculpture of the human body in the driving position. It featured a unique transformational articulation built into the pockets, which allowed the jacket’s structure to morph into a driving position when required. In early 2010, the jacket was nominated for the ‘Design of the Year’ award by the London Design Museum.

    Later in 2010 he began working as a creative consultant with British brand Umbro, this led to his involvement in the design of both ‘home’ and ‘away’ England kits for the 2010 World Cup. In 2011, Umbro and Aitor launched their long awaited collaboration line ‘Archive Research Project’. The launch was presented at an installation in London’s Dover Street Market.

    Aitor then launched his on-schedule A/W10 product line during Paris Fashion Week. The presentation was titled ‘LEGS’ and was a retrospective of his various trouser concepts from the past six years, which culminated in a collection of three specially developed trousers exclusively exhibited and sold globally in a small number of stores including Selfridges London.

    In July 2011, Aitor Throup was appointed as creative director of British rock band Kasabian; heading the design and art direction for their fourth album ‘Velociraptor!’. Throup’s involvement with the band resulted in him receiving the 2012 UK Music Video Award for ‘Best Music TV Advertisement’.

    In June 2012 Throup previewed his eponymous product line ‘New Object Research’ where ambassadors Sarah Mower and Tim Blanks hosted the press preview. This was followed by an exclusive preview of four individual items from the product line at Dover Street Market London, where multiple sculptures were installed throughout various spaces within the space during the store’s Frieze Art Fair ‘open house’ event.

    The complete collection was revealed at the D.E. Gallery in King’s Cross during ‘London Collections: Men 2013’. The exhibition consisted of 22 ready to wear product archetypes presented within six individual scenes featuring outfits worn by Aitor’s human form sculptures, suspended and framed in bespoke steel structures of his design. “It was the culmination of six years of work, and six years of intense optimism on the part of industry insiders who’ve patiently clung to the conviction that Throup brings something unique to fashion”, said Tim Blanks for Style.com. Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune described the collection as “an effort to make reason the essence of design and apply it functionally.”

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    New Object Research

    Aitor Throup's design manifesto

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    Website | Facebook | Twitter | YouTube
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2013


  2. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    MA Graduation collection, 2006

    When Football Hooligans Become Hindu Gods.


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    Last edited: Feb 1, 2013


  3. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    London Collections Spring/Summer 2013


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    Last edited: Feb 1, 2013


  4. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Autumn/Winter 2013
    New Object Research


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    Showroom pics via BSR on Stylezeitgeist


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    Last edited: Feb 1, 2013


  5. sipang

    sipang Senior member

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    Awesome, thank you.
     


  6. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    No problem :), even if it ends up being just you and I in this thread actually, lol.

    Getting some other images together and will post as I get them. Looking for images of his Topman collaboration.
     


  7. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    X-post from Interview thread.

    Style Salvage interview with Aitor Throup

    Treasured Items
    Friday, 14 September 2012


    Visit the link to see the full text along with photographs.

    source


    There are more talks with Aitor Throup that are not formatted like a typical interview, but they have some more insights and sound bites from the designer about his work and influences on the same website.

    A conversation with Aitor Throup
     


  8. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    I find the influence of Massimo Osti on Aitor's work very fascinating. Obviously there's Osti's influence on "Casuals" culture in the UK and all that being a nice primer for Aitor with regards to the kind of clothing he designs, but Osti is also very famous for his innovations with fabrics. I wonder whether in the future Aitor will end up experimenting with fabrics a bit more once he has his production line and archetypes more streamlined. There are some hints at that with the stuff he did for his "Legs" retrospective with what look like metal leaf used to make some of his trousers. The use of jersey as well and of course wool was pretty impressive.

    I guess like he said, he will go where the concept behind the product takes him.

    Anyway, here's a video interview with Aitor on the redesign of the CP Goggle jacket.


    [VIDEO][/VIDEO]​
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2013


  9. bows1

    bows1 Senior member

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    The collection is absurd and I love it. I was fortunate enough to see part of his LEGS exhibit at 7 New York a year or two ago. I wish I had the funds to pick up some of the trousers then, they were incredible. Hopefully I can grab something from this collection although I'm sure the prices will be exorbitant and sell out quickly.

    Thanks for all the links Ivwri
     


  10. sipang

    sipang Senior member

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    Haha probably, oh well...

    edit: bows1 is here too, success





    A closer look at the C.P. Company collab




     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2013


  11. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Beautiful post sipang. Looking at this you can see some crossover design elements in his Mongolian Rider Coat which he did for AW13. The vents at the back, the front flaps that follow the movement of the thigh once in a seated (riding) position and of course the integrated hood. There was also a shirt in a shoot for Vogue Homme Japan that had looked like it was based on the concept of the Mongolian riding coat as well. Maybe a Spring/Summer variant?

    bows1 that's excellent that you were able to make it for one of his exhibitions? Would love to see his clothing in person. Like you said, the collection is pretty absurd and awesome for it :). Would be very curious to see the people that picked up his pants originally. Even with the Topman collab and the Umbro stuff, you never see pictures of anybody wearing them online (or maybe I am just not looking hard enough?)



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  12. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Anatomy of a skull (bag).

    One of Aitor's most iconic pieces, the Shiva skull bag archetype was initially shown back in 2006 as part of the "When Football Hooligans Become Hindu Gods" collection. One of the titular football hooligans transforms into an avatar of Shiva and the skull bags came out of that.

    Fusing the imagery of Shiva, the god of destruction and rebirth with a functional utility bag, Aitor has been able to use design to capture his conceptual narrative while giving people a place to keep their wallet, keys and other knick knacks.

    Also in keeping with the origin of the idea, leather straps can be attached to it at numerous points allowing for the bag to be worn in multiple configurations around the body, evoking the spirit of some of his drawings for the concept and the image of Shiva dancing the end of the cosmos with skulls swirling around him.

    This attention to detail from concept to execution is one of the things that makes Aitor really stand out to me as a designer as it satisfies one's imagination while simultaneously providing a functional piece of clothing or accessory.

    Anyway, here are photos showing the Shiva skull bag over the 6 years of its development into the final product that will soon be in stores.




    Shiva Skull Bag

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    Shiva Skull Bag in drawings

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    Shiva Skull Bag modeled

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  13. Ivwri

    Ivwri Senior member

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    Some magazine scans of various Aitor interviews and features all via the press kit PDF he has on his website.


    Another Man magazine #11, 2010

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    Fantastic Man magazine #12, 2010

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    Scans from "Fashion Designers Sketchbooks by Hywel Davies"

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  14. slstr

    slstr Senior member

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    Really Great video showing construction/material details about some of Aitor's pants.

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    Last edited: Feb 4, 2013


  15. Lionheart Biker

    Lionheart Biker Senior member

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    This is an amazing thread. Great stuff, Iwvri. I had been seeing a lot of from aitor in you tumblr; makes sense that you started the thread about his work. Really interested in his designs. The pieces from the last show are mindblowing.
     


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