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New MTM suit- Pics

Alter

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This is a continuation of my thread about my custom suit place in Osaka. I picked up a new suit today. Fabric is Loro Piana Zelander (Marino wool). Feel free to critique. The photos were taken by my three-year-old son so please do not be too hard on his photography skills. The shirt and tie were hastily thrown on for the photo.
 

summej2

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It looks similar to the MTM I had made in Japan while I lived there. The fit seems good, though the cut is somewhat unremarkable---sort of middle-of-the-road. That said, I find I'm always wearing mine... sometimes well-fitted and middle-of-the-road is exactly what's needed.
 

Alter

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Originally Posted by edmorel
your 3 year old can take pictures?? You might have an Avedon on your hands.

Yes, if you need someone to take pictures with the head cut off then I have a real pro!
 

bch

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I lightened the photos up with irfanview. Suit looks amazing. Shoulder fit and sleeve length is excellent. Nothing to complain about, as far as I see, though I might want to open up the coat up bit beneath the button.
 

kdsvs

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Shoulder fit looks nice.
Not much waist suppression.
Seems a bit long to me.
 

bch

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Coat length is tough to judge without seeing the whole body. Looks OK to me, though, judging from bottom pic.
 

whoopee

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Looks a bit longer than I think most length determining methods would put it but if he is tall, not a big deal. I think it looks good for a first suit and for the cost. It could stand to have more style but seems to fit well and that is of course the most important.
 

Alter

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Thanks for the feedback, gentlemen; very appreciated!

I agree that the suit is lacking any particularly interesting styling and the lack of waist suppression is something I will try to work on with my next suit. In truth, I have avoided too much taken in at the waist as I have a little more waist than I wish to admit. I also tend to be a little large in the chest. But I agree that the suit lacks a certain flair.

In regards to height, it seems to be alright to my eye. I am 6' 1" and generally longer in the torso than I am in the legs. Perhaps a shorter jacket would even that out a little more? Or am i better to leave things longer in the jacket? What should I be looking for in terms of height? I know the "covers the rear" method and it seems good for that. How about in relation to the hands?


Any comments in terms of the buttoning position. Seems a little low to me but, admittedly, all of my past suits have been three buttons with a fairly high button stance.

Also, these photos are not very good but I am concerned about the balance of the pants and the jacket. The pants are fairly slim and flat fronted while the jacket is fairly "sackish". It seems a little off to me, but it is a fair representation of my body, unfortunately



I will try to get some better pics; it is past the photographers bedtime so it will have to wait for another day.

Again, many thanks.
 

whoopee

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Just make sure it covers your rear if you have a long torso. Judging by the hands and the full body shot, it's too long. And since you say it's a low button stance, the rather long skirt confirms suspicions that it should be shorter. The balance between coat and trousers does seem a bit off in a "American" way. It's hard to be more specific about these and your other concerns. Let your son try again and I'm sure he'll have gotten even better. Kids are amazing in that way. And we can offer better advice.
 

Alter

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Whoopee,

Thanks. I will post some more pics in a couple of days; I am off to Nagoya tomorrow.

I just put the jacket on; with my arms straight down and fingers extended, the bottom of the jacket falls just below my thumb (right around the central knuckle). Is that an effective way to determine length? The "covers the rear" element seems to be correct; covered but not overly so.







Originally Posted by whoopee
Just make sure it covers your rear if you have a long torso. Judging by the hands and the full body shot, it's too long. And since you say it's a low button stance, the rather long skirt confirms suspicions that it should be shorter. The balance between coat and trousers does seem a bit off in a "American" way. It's hard to be more specific about these and your other concerns. Let your son try again and I'm sure he'll have gotten even better. Kids are amazing in that way. And we can offer better advice.
 

bch

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Originally Posted by Alter
Whoopee,

Thanks. I will post some more pics in a couple of days; I am off to Nagoya tomorrow.

I just put the jacket on; with my arms straight down and fingers extended, the bottom of the jacket falls just below my thumb (right around the central knuckle). Is that an effective way to determine length? The "covers the rear" element seems to be correct; covered but not overly so.


Forget your hands. The coat should fall 1/2 the distance between collar and floor AND cover your rear end.
 

whoopee

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Actually none of the rules of thumb are infallible. They are guidelines in the search for proper balance. I know tailors who do collar to floor and also collar to middle of shoes. For me it's in between the two. Nothing beats what one's eyes can see. Here you'll have several dozens. After all dressing is mostly about comfort and appearance.
 

Vintage Gent

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Originally Posted by bch
Forget your hands. The coat should fall 1/2 the distance between collar and floor AND cover your rear end.

I've always been curious about this sartorial adage. What then of the short- or long-torsoed gent?
 

j

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Originally Posted by Vintage Gent
I've always been curious about this sartorial adage. What then of the short- or long-torsoed gent?
This evens him out and keeps him from catching a breeze.
 

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