NEW MEMBER INQUIRIES & QUICK QUESTIONS- CLASSIC MENSWEAR: WK OF NOV 16, 2015

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Murlsquirl, Nov 16, 2015.

  1. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Welcome to the forum, Nancy. You would have to look in our Buy & Sell section of the forum to see if you can find what you're looking for http://www.styleforum.net/f/6654/buying-and-selling
     
  2. webwing

    webwing Member

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    Thanks for the reply Murlsquirl!

    That's a good point on the brown. I love the color, but don't want to look like I am wearing an orphaned suit jacket. As far as the grey goes, I like it, but many comments I've read around the forum indicate that grey blazers don't match well with a lot of colors outside of the white to gray to black spectrum. Also that a gray blazer w/ blue pants looks like a security guard. Can I get your opinion? Outside of the choices I offered, what blazer do you find the most versatile?

    Anything on this page?: http://us.suitsupply.com/en_US/jackets?prefn1=fit&prefv1=Havana

    Thank you.
     
  3. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    I like grey sportcoats and I like them with blue/navy trousers. Blue jacket/blue trouser isn't the security guard look, that's blue jacket/grey trousers....blue/blue is just bad. The "uniform" or "guard" look can be excellent when done right. The brown wool/hemp looks interesting.
     
  4. sydneycentric

    sydneycentric Senior member

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    HELP!!!! How do I stop this from happening? As in the attached picture, the top of the shirt placket keeps folding down when I do the top button up which pushes the tie down past the top button. I need to keep adjusting it all the time. Ideally, a situation where no 'tie gap' should exist and a perfect union between the collar and tie. Thanks in advance. SC.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. breakaway01

    breakaway01 Senior member

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    That's odd. Is your shirt neck the correct size or is it too large for your neck? I'm having a bit of a hard time imagining how the neckband could fold over like that unless it was too large. Maybe @Shirtmaven could weigh in on this.
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2015
  6. sydneycentric

    sydneycentric Senior member

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    Yeah, it's a MTM shirt from a great shirtmaker here in Sydney. Unless I spend a great amount of time ironing and starching it, the placket folds down this way.
     
  7. sydneycentric

    sydneycentric Senior member

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    Yeah, it's a MTM shirt from a great shirtmaker here in Sydney. Unless I spend a great amount of time ironing and starching it, the placket folds down this way.
     
  8. SilchasRuin

    SilchasRuin Member

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    Thanks for that, MS. I do use shoe trees on all my shoes, so that's not an issue. I have one particular pair of monkstraps which look a bit weird - i'll post photos when i am home (am away right now) and ask for a followup opinion. Good to know that creasing isn't the end of a good shoe, though.

    I may have to put insoles on a few of mine, though, as typically, a shoe that is wide enough last to fit me has a bit of extra space on top.
     
  9. jgw22

    jgw22 New Member

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    I bought some dress shirts from Brooks Brothers for my bank teller job. Even though I got extra slim fit they are still a little baggy at the bottom. Should i get darts put in? Also, are they reversible?
     
  10. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Welcome to the forum, jgw. Yes, darts are the easy fix and they can be taken out.
     
  11. cvrle1

    cvrle1 Member

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    Hi there, new member here, and I am confused about choosing fabric weight. I googled and read a lot of articles and forums in this regard, but more I read, more I get confused. Looking to get 1st MTM suit for me. Was thinking about Indochino as they are <10 min walk from me. Saw few different fabrics that I was thinking about, and when I posted in different forum, I was told both are "tropical weight" meaning not for fall and winter. I live in Vancouver (BC, Canada) and temperature during fall is between 5C-10C, winter gets a bit cooler, and it can get down to -2C. I am hoping to get a 10 month suit as the 1st one (in navy)

    From what I read, it seems like everyone has different opinion on year round suit. Some say 9-10oz, some say 11-12oz, some say 9oz is for summer only and so on. Looking on the Indochino site just causes more confusion (everything is in gsm, which I prefer, but...)

    Fabrics I was thinking of:

    Premium Indigo Sharkskin: http://www.indochino.com/product/premium-indigo-sharkskin-suit
    280 gsm (medium weight according to site)

    Navy Herringbone: http://www.indochino.com/product/navy-herringbone-suit
    270 gsm (medium weight, but says good for all seasons)

    Indigo Shadow Windowpane: http://www.indochino.com/product/indigo-shadow-windowpane-suit
    280 gsm (heavyweight fabric according to site)

    So this is where I am confused. 1st and 3rd link are both 280 gsm, but one says middleweight, other says heavyweight. 2nd link is 270, but it says good for all seasons. What am I missing?

    Thanks for your help
     
  12. breakaway01

    breakaway01 Senior member

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    There is no way to give a definitive recommendation based solely on cloth weight because there are so many other factors to consider:

    - climate (both outdoor and indoor)
    - personal preference: whether you run 'warm' or 'cool' yourself
    - fabric weave (open weave fabrics like hopsack or fresco wear cooler than more tightly woven fabrics for the same weight)
    - material (e.g. silk and cashmere will be warmer than wool for the same cloth weight and weave)
    - presence or absence of lining.

    "Heaver" cloth will tend to drape better and be more durable than "lighter" cloth, again assuming same weave and material

    Personally, I would not consider a 270-280 gsm cloth (8-9 oz) of any material or weave to be "medium" or "heavy" weight, especially for a cool climate like Vancouver's. I would lean towards something more like 300-390 gsm (~10-13 oz) in a worsted wool. 10-11 if you run warm, 12-13 if you run cool and like the feel of a heavier cloth.
     
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2015
  13. breakaway01

    breakaway01 Senior member

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  14. chengkf123

    chengkf123 New Member

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    Hi everyone,

    I started suiting for work few years ago and would like to know if there are any online stores to buy fabrics for suit as tailors in my town don't have much choices.
    I have gone through some providers website like Harrisons of Edinburgh but seems that they are for wholesale only.
    I am interested in fabrics like Frontier and Finmeresco, thanks.
     
  15. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    You'll definitely want to ask here http://www.styleforum.net/t/56404/unfunded-liabilities-a-k-a-the-cloth-thread. These guys will have all the info you need.
     

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