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NEW MEMBER INQUIRIES & QUICK QUESTIONS- CLASSIC MENSWEAR: WK OF NOV 16, 2015

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Murlsquirl, Nov 16, 2015.

  1. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    New SF member and not sure where to find the answer you're looking for? Have a quick question that doesn't belong in a current thread? Welcome, you found the right place.

    This is a weekly thread where new users can ask quick questions and get a solid answer. If a thread already exists that would be more helpful, we will point you in the right direction. The only stupid question is the one that isn't asked.....so ask away!
     
  2. DClaw

    DClaw New Member

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    Hi all,

    First-time poster here. I just stumbled across this forum while searching for a birthday gift for my boyfriend. I'd like to get him a pair of dark brown dress oxfords or loafers, and I know very little about men's shoes. We're both in our mid-twenties, in the first year of our careers, so I don't want to get anything too extravagant - just a well-constructed, classic men's shoe for about $400-$600. I was eying some Ferragamo Mestre Studio loafers, but I read many negative reviews on this site regarding the Studio line. Can anyone comment on the shoes at Brooks Brothers? Their perforated captoes look similar to the style I'm looking for. I like the look of the Tod's loafers, but I'm unsure as to whether their leather moccasins are too casual for business casual.

    As all I truly have narrowed down is the color, I'm very open to recommendations. My boyfriend has a fairly conservative style, with a slightly preppy influence. He works at a law firm, but generally doesn't wear a suit and tie unless meeting with clients (about once per week). Doesn't wear anything too flashy, though I think a metal bit on a driving shoe would be acceptable.

    Thanks!
     
  3. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    Welcome to the forum, D. At that price point, I would highly reccomend Carmina. Here is their official Affiliate Vendor (AV) thread http://www.styleforum.net/t/241469/carmina-shoes-official-thread-reviews-advice-sizing-etc. We also have a few other AVs that stock their shoes. I would look for a shortwing derby in suede or some sort of grained leather in brown. Oxfords would be great if he wore suits or jacket/tie regularly, but since he doesn't, I would look for a derby.
     
    Last edited: Nov 16, 2015
  4. SilchasRuin

    SilchasRuin Member

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    Hi guys - new member here. I have one of those "how long is a piece of string" type of questions: how much creasing do you consider acceptable on your shoes before you toss them? Or how much it too much?

    I realise this is goning to vary based on personal tastes but I'd like to see the range.

    Use case: smart-casual shoes (anything from sports jacket to smart chinos/fitted collared tee).
     
  5. lcadena

    lcadena Member

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    I'm new around here after lurking for a while and have a question. I'm getting ready to make my first foray into MTM suits and want to get advice on which company to use. I've narrowed it down to three: Black Lapel, Oliver Wicks, and Knot Standard. I like the style of all three companies and their customization options, but don't know which one is likely to result in a better-fitting suit the first time around. I live close enough to Washington to be able to go to the Knot Standard showroom for an appointment, but am put off by the higher cost of going that route. The one thing that might sway me is if setting up an appointment would significantly increase the chances of the suit fitting well when I order it and if my measurements would then be available to order online (to buy the less expensive suits later on). It seems that Oliver Wicks has a higher allowance for tailoring costs, which would be a good thing in my view and a point in their favor.

    I've read the many reviews here and elsewhere on these three companies, but am still not sure which is best for me. I'm fairly certain I can get accurate measurements of myself, and I have a couple of well-fitting Ludlow suits (which I had altered to fit me) that I can use as templates, too. I'm short (5'5") and have a beer belly (but am otherwise average, coming in at 150 lbs.) in case that makes a difference in terms of fit for each brand.

    Do folks have any opinions as to which one I should go with?
     
  6. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    Welcome to the forum, SR. Shoes are supposed to crease, but if they fit properly, it shouldn't be anything crazy. They also need to be stored with shoe trees when not worn to help keep the shape. If not, they will look like a real mess after a while. I've never considered throwing out a pair of shoes because of creasing.
     
  7. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    Welcome to the forum. I believe one of our members has a suit from Knot Standard that worked out really well. @An Acute Style , can you chime in here?
     
  8. decumulate

    decumulate Active Member

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    Qvery stupid question but I just want to confirm: should the fat end of a generic shoetree be placed toward the inside of the foot?
     
  9. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    Yes
     
  10. BlackYeti

    BlackYeti Well-Known Member

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    Hey there Murl.

    Is there such a thing as canvasing the back of jackets? If not, is achieving a full and smoothly sloping back silhouette all about the cut and drape of the fabric?

    Do you know of a discussion of the fit of the back of a jacket, specifically?
     
  11. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    Hey, if there is such a thing, I've never heard of or seen it done...I'm no expert though. A smooth back sillhouette is mostly about the cut and fit, but yes, different fabrics will also play a part; as will lined v unlined.

    I don't know of a specific discussion, but the guys in the Unfunded Liabilities thread have a ton of knowledge and the tailors here http://www.styleforum.net/t/265924/the-tailors-thread-fit-feedback-and-alteration-suggestions might have covered this before.
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2015
  12. webwing

    webwing Member

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    Hello! Longtime lurker, first time poster.

    I've recently come to the decision that I need to add a blazer to my wardrobe. I don't have any currently, but want the most versatile color I can get. My personal theme is to have very versatile pieces, and to make sure that I use most of my wardrobe as often as possible. Specifically this is for social gatherings, not work.

    My original thought was Navy. However, most of my pants that I wear out are dark blue (jeans, corduroy, chino) or some shade of tan/khaki. I know Navy is considered the most versatile, but it seems that it wouldn't work with more than half of my existing wardrobe (dark blue pants) but great with the rest. My question is, if you were only going to get one blazer, for maximum versatility, which color would you get? Light gray? light brown? Still stick with Navy + dark jeans? I am considering the following options:


    Light Gray:

    http://us.suitsupply.com/en_US/jackets/havana-grey-plain/C917I.html?cgid=Jackets&srule=PriceAsc


    Brownish Gray:

    http://us.suitsupply.com/en_US/jackets/havana-brown-plain/C796I.html?cgid=Jackets&srule=PriceAsc


    Navy:

    http://us.suitsupply.com/en_US/jackets/havana-navy-plain/C847I.html?cgid=Jackets&srule=PriceAsc


    I know most of the aficionados on here would be aghast at only one blazer, but for now, that's all I want or need. Thanks for the assistance. Styleforum has not steered me wrong yet!
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2015
  13. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    Welcome to the forum, webwing. If all you have are blue pants, then the navy isn't a great option unless you plan on expanding your trouser collection. The brown is nice, but the lack of texture wth the birdseye doesn't make it a great casual SC. That leaves the grey...looks like it has a nice texture to it and should work with what you have.
     
  14. Jimmy Chews

    Jimmy Chews New Member

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    Good evening all. My name is Jimmy, Jimmy Chews(as I inhale the fiery tobacco from my American Spirit Organic Cigarette and sip on my tepid Starbucks latte) and I've been chasing the dragon since I was 11. It all started in 6th grade with Panama Jack T-shirts and Sebago Topsiders that would never be mine(inhale/exhale). Along with Izod shirts, back when it had the gator on the shirt and no one knew of Lacoste. See, we were poor. Not country depression era poor or inner DUCK!! city poor, but Dad's getting his Ph.D. poor and my folks are splitting up. At the start of 8th grade, I tasted the good stuff(light another one). A friend gave me an Izod shirt and I managed to get a 2nd hand pair of Topsiders. I went from zero to zero + potential overnight. I realized that all that was keeping me from being cool were some decent clothes. Oh, and real hair cuts, showers, not spazzing out, and other pubescent acts. That summer, before the 9th grade, I moved to LEX, KY, away from the hell people call Birmingham, AL, to live with my Dad and his new trophy wife(3rd place North South Central KY). He finally had his damn degree, though it cost him my crazy mother, and he was finally bringing in some gonna-get-tenured loot(cig into the backwash coffee. "Is there gonna be any cake here? Doughnuts"?) I finally got to go shopping for my 9th grade year's clothing and pick out my own new stuff. By then the Panama Jack crap had disappeared, likely due to the extra 300 miles I was from the gulf or from the fact it sucked from the get-go. Now the world of fashion, albeit the world of central KY, was mine and down the rabbit hole I went. It took me a few seasons, some hits and misses, but by mid 10th grade until I was out of HS, I was on fire, but also became a full blown addict. My story is long and you all have probably heard many tales like mine. At our next meeting, I hope to have more time to tell you how I got here. It's day 1 for me and I hope to keep going. Stay strong and look good. I know it's someone else's turn to introduce themselves, but that's how I started. A quick anecdote before I run; one of my early enablers, a hot friend of my younger sister once said to me, "Girls look at guys shoes and if they're cool, that guy has a really good chance at getting laid. I love your shoes". Wow, so crisp and clear, so straight and matter of fact, so reaffirming. I looked at her, and she at me, and I said "Gotta run, see you later. I'm going to the mall"****true story. Except the part where I ditched her for the f-ing mall. I'm not stupid.
     
  15. Nanct Kaye

    Nanct Kaye New Member

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    My husband is looking for Church's shoes made from last #73, his favorite shoe. What is your current price for same and what is your sales price?

    Thanks
     
  16. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    Welcome to the forum, Nancy. You would have to look in our Buy & Sell section of the forum to see if you can find what you're looking for http://www.styleforum.net/f/6654/buying-and-selling
     
  17. webwing

    webwing Member

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    Thanks for the reply Murlsquirl!

    That's a good point on the brown. I love the color, but don't want to look like I am wearing an orphaned suit jacket. As far as the grey goes, I like it, but many comments I've read around the forum indicate that grey blazers don't match well with a lot of colors outside of the white to gray to black spectrum. Also that a gray blazer w/ blue pants looks like a security guard. Can I get your opinion? Outside of the choices I offered, what blazer do you find the most versatile?

    Anything on this page?: http://us.suitsupply.com/en_US/jackets?prefn1=fit&prefv1=Havana

    Thank you.
     
  18. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    I like grey sportcoats and I like them with blue/navy trousers. Blue jacket/blue trouser isn't the security guard look, that's blue jacket/grey trousers....blue/blue is just bad. The "uniform" or "guard" look can be excellent when done right. The brown wool/hemp looks interesting.
     
  19. sydneycentric

    sydneycentric Senior member

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    Australia
    HELP!!!! How do I stop this from happening? As in the attached picture, the top of the shirt placket keeps folding down when I do the top button up which pushes the tie down past the top button. I need to keep adjusting it all the time. Ideally, a situation where no 'tie gap' should exist and a perfect union between the collar and tie. Thanks in advance. SC.

    [​IMG]
     
  20. breakaway01

    breakaway01 Senior member

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    That's odd. Is your shirt neck the correct size or is it too large for your neck? I'm having a bit of a hard time imagining how the neckband could fold over like that unless it was too large. Maybe @Shirtmaven could weigh in on this.
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2015

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