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NEW MEMBER INQUIRIES & QUICK QUESTIONS- CLASSIC MENSWEAR: WK OF MAY 25, 2015

Murlsquirl

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New SF member and not sure where to find the answer you're looking for? Have a quick question that doesn't belong in a current thread? Welcome, you found the right place.

This is a weekly thread where new users can ask quick questions and get a solid answer. If a thread already exists that would be more helpful, we will point you in the right direction. The only stupid question is the one that isn't asked.....so ask away!
 

Minh Tran

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Recently I got this khaki as a present and I'm quite confused about what shoes and shirts fit this khaki, can you guys help me?
 

Thomas Huang

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I'm a early 20s guy just starting out and as of right now I don't really have a business wardrobe so I'm looking for some advice on what shirtmakers etc. are of good quality and worth investing in. Ideally I would like to spend under $100 dollars for a shirt and buy them during a sale such as a summer sale. So it'd be great if you guys can advise which brands would be good for me and when they have their summer sales. I have been lifting for a while so I have a muscular build, about 16"-17" arms and a 44-45" chest, am dropping some fat off but probably won't be able to take much more than an inch or 2 off those measurements so I'm not gonna be able to fit into brands with slimmer fits. It'd be great if you guys can point me in the right direction. I've lurked here for a while so right now I'm considering Harvie and Hudson, Polo Ralph Lauren, Brooks Brothers, TM Lewin and maybe something like Hilditch and Key, Turnbull or New and Lingwood if they have significant sales. Also if you guys know a good brand that makes trousers that thick legs and glutes that'd be great.
 

Balistarama

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Hey all,
New here and have done a fair bit of searching in this forum and can’t find too much that’s recent on “best places to shop” so thought I’d start a new thread. If I’ve missed it please feel free to link me up though!

As the thread title indicates, I’m looking to buy 1, maybe 2 new suits in Melbourne. Wanting them to be either half or full canvas and made to measure (or above). I’ve only ever bought or owned OTR suits and none of them even come close to fitting as I’m quite tall and broad shouldered. I’ve done research online and inquired in a few places and would like to get something special that will last a long time, but can’t really justify going “all out” and buying a fully bespoke suit at $1,500/$2,000+. At the same time I’d like to have the suit be at least half canvassed as I’ve read this enables a far better fit plus makes it last longer. I’d also like it to be at least Made to Measure as again, I’m after something decently special.

The suit will be for general wearing out to parties, social events, weddings, etc. Not really work ever but if it can be used for the occasional interview that’d be a bonus too. I’m thinking one light Navy (bit of a shine to it) and one light grey. Anyway, so far I’ve found the following recommended shops along with this info:

Adriano Carbone: $1,600 for Made To Measure, $2,000+ for Bespoke. ALL handmade here in Melb, likely full canvas but haven't checked. <- Bit too pricey for me unfortunately.
American Tailors: Similar vein of Adiano Carbone, most likely $1,500+ <- Again, bit too pricey for me.
Germanicos: $1,495 for 100% Worsted Wool. Unsure if MtM, bespoke or half/full/fussed construction. <- Again, bit too pricey for me.
Godwin Charli: $1,600+ for made to measure suits. <- Again, bit too pricey for me.

Oscar Hunt: $845 for Super 120s Wool up to $1,150 for 100% Worsted Wool All floating half-canvas that is 3-ply. They have a combination of machine and hand craftsmanship. The majority of construction is done by their tailors in Shanghai, with the last 15% finished by our Melbourne tailors in our showroom. <- In the right price range… but seems a bit pricey. Not sure if this is due to quality material/construction or just their “marketing” that goes around it all (fancy shop front, scotch while you wait etc).
Suit Shop: $875 for half, $1,025 for full canvassing, laser cut and majoritively made in China, with final 2nd or 3rd fittings done here in Melb by local tailors. <- In the right price range, seem to have less range than Oscar Hunt and don’t know if CAD measurements + laser cutting is better or worse than hand measured and hand cut.

Measure yourself and order online places: I’ve got these three listed below, however as I’ve never really bought anything other than OTR I’m guessing I need someone who knows what the hell they’re doing to properly measure me first, then once I have a bit more understanding/references I can begin to order things online. I also have no idea what fabric type really I'm after and kind of have to see it in person as I can't explain what I want, I just will know it when I see it. :p
Santoria Formosa - Highly recommended
Suit Supply
Sid Mashburn



So if anyone who's gone and actually bought a suit at any (or multiple) of these places let me know how it went that'd be appreciated. Also if anyone with a bit more experience than me can recommend which place is better that'd be helpful too. I don't really have a price limit per say, however I'm trying to find good value for money. If I can get 80% of the way there in construction, fit and materials for $800 say, I'm not going to spend $1,600 to get the remaining 20%. If the 80% way mark cost $1,200 then so be it. I'd rather have a good stand out suit that lasts 10+ years than cheap out and "save" $100.
 

Murlsquirl

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Murlsquirl

The Moral Squirrel
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I'm a early 20s guy just starting out and as of right now I don't really have a business wardrobe so I'm looking for some advice on what shirtmakers etc. are of good quality and worth investing in. Ideally I would like to spend under $100 dollars for a shirt and buy them during a sale such as a summer sale. So it'd be great if you guys can advise which brands would be good for me and when they have their summer sales. I have been lifting for a while so I have a muscular build, about 16"-17" arms and a 44-45" chest, am dropping some fat off but probably won't be able to take much more than an inch or 2 off those measurements so I'm not gonna be able to fit into brands with slimmer fits. It'd be great if you guys can point me in the right direction. I've lurked here for a while so right now I'm considering Harvie and Hudson, Polo Ralph Lauren, Brooks Brothers, TM Lewin and maybe something like Hilditch and Key, Turnbull or New and Lingwood if they have significant sales. Also if you guys know a good brand that makes trousers that thick legs and glutes that'd be great.

Welcome to the forum, TH. None or those bad options and all have good return policies if the sizing doesn't work out. All pretty decent shirts for starting a wardrobe. How much are you looking to spend on trousers? Wool?
 

Murlsquirl

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Hey all,
New here and have done a fair bit of searching in this forum and can’t find too much that’s recent on “best places to shop” so thought I’d start a new thread. If I’ve missed it please feel free to link me up though!

As the thread title indicates, I’m looking to buy 1, maybe 2 new suits in Melbourne. Wanting them to be either half or full canvas and made to measure (or above). I’ve only ever bought or owned OTR suits and none of them even come close to fitting as I’m quite tall and broad shouldered. I’ve done research online and inquired in a few places and would like to get something special that will last a long time, but can’t really justify going “all out” and buying a fully bespoke suit at $1,500/$2,000+. At the same time I’d like to have the suit be at least half canvassed as I’ve read this enables a far better fit plus makes it last longer. I’d also like it to be at least Made to Measure as again, I’m after something decently special.

The suit will be for general wearing out to parties, social events, weddings, etc. Not really work ever but if it can be used for the occasional interview that’d be a bonus too. I’m thinking one light Navy (bit of a shine to it) and one light grey. Anyway, so far I’ve found the following recommended shops along with this info:

Adriano Carbone: $1,600 for Made To Measure, $2,000+ for Bespoke. ALL handmade here in Melb, likely full canvas but haven't checked. <- Bit too pricey for me unfortunately.
American Tailors: Similar vein of Adiano Carbone, most likely $1,500+ <- Again, bit too pricey for me.
Germanicos: $1,495 for 100% Worsted Wool. Unsure if MtM, bespoke or half/full/fussed construction. <- Again, bit too pricey for me.
Godwin Charli: $1,600+ for made to measure suits. <- Again, bit too pricey for me.

Oscar Hunt: $845 for Super 120s Wool up to $1,150 for 100% Worsted Wool All floating half-canvas that is 3-ply. They have a combination of machine and hand craftsmanship. The majority of construction is done by their tailors in Shanghai, with the last 15% finished by our Melbourne tailors in our showroom. <- In the right price range… but seems a bit pricey. Not sure if this is due to quality material/construction or just their “marketing” that goes around it all (fancy shop front, scotch while you wait etc).
Suit Shop: $875 for half, $1,025 for full canvassing, laser cut and majoritively made in China, with final 2nd or 3rd fittings done here in Melb by local tailors. <- In the right price range, seem to have less range than Oscar Hunt and don’t know if CAD measurements + laser cutting is better or worse than hand measured and hand cut.

Measure yourself and order online places: I’ve got these three listed below, however as I’ve never really bought anything other than OTR I’m guessing I need someone who knows what the hell they’re doing to properly measure me first, then once I have a bit more understanding/references I can begin to order things online. I also have no idea what fabric type really I'm after and kind of have to see it in person as I can't explain what I want, I just will know it when I see it. :p
Santoria Formosa - Highly recommended
Suit Supply
Sid Mashburn



So if anyone who's gone and actually bought a suit at any (or multiple) of these places let me know how it went that'd be appreciated. Also if anyone with a bit more experience than me can recommend which place is better that'd be helpful too. I don't really have a price limit per say, however I'm trying to find good value for money. If I can get 80% of the way there in construction, fit and materials for $800 say, I'm not going to spend $1,600 to get the remaining 20%. If the 80% way mark cost $1,200 then so be it. I'd rather have a good stand out suit that lasts 10+ years than cheap out and "save" $100.

Welcome to the forum, B. You will definitely want to ask the guys in this thread http://www.styleforum.net/t/88856/australian-members. Your fellow Aussies should be willing to help get you on the right track. If you end up deciding to go with an online vendor as opposed to staying local, feel free to stop back in here with any other questions.
 

R125S

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Navy and dark brown (same shade as shoes and belt) are safe choices, but I'm thinking about something more attractive (striking, don't know is it right word, sorry :D ). Dark brown seems too casual, and with navy/blue there will be too much of blue tone. What about beige or something in-between beige and brown? And what about pocket square on those colors?

Feel free to give some advices and picutres are desirable, best regards :)


 
Last edited:

Maxy

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Hi, am new to forum.

I have this pair of shoes which is still unworn. I have to attend a wedding, (1) can these be wore to a formal event? or (2) semi-casual events with casual suits? (3) can be worn with jeans outside this event?

My current dilema is to wear them during this wedding (1) but also want to know answers for (2) and (3) and right use of this shoe.

Thanks everyone.


 

Murlsquirl

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Navy and dark brown (same shade as shoes and belt) are safe choices, but I'm thinking about something more attractive (striking, don't know is it right word, sorry :D ). Dark brown seems too casual, and with navy/blue there will be too much of blue tone. What about beige or something in-between beige and brown? And what about pocket square on those colors?


Feel free to give some advices and picutres are desirable, best regards :)

Welcome to the forum, R1. Are you asking about a navy suit with those shoes? I'm a little confused.
 

Murlsquirl

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Hi, am new to forum.

I have this pair of shoes which is still unworn. I have to attend a wedding, (1) can these be wore to a formal event? or (2) semi-casual events with casual suits? (3) can be worn with jeans outside this event?

My current dilema is to wear them during this wedding (1) but also want to know answers for (2) and (3) and right use of this shoe.

Thanks everyone.
Welcome to the forum, Maxy. I would say you are safe with casual suits, but would say no to a formal suit and denim. Best of luck.
 

Maxy

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Welcome to the forum, Maxy. I would say you are safe with casual suits, but would say no to a formal suit and denim. Best of luck.
Thanks.. I might need to get another pair of brown shoes for wedding now :(
 

Iya Arellano

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Generally, which is better in terms of quality and maintenance- soft leather or hard leather, considering rainy/sunny weather?
<sorry, wrong category, dunno how to edit it>
 
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Odie

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Hi everyone,

I have a few pairs of slim fit flat front chino trousers (they are of thicker cotton) and I noticed that I have pocket flare when I am sitting down. The pocket area kind of bunches & bulges up. The chinos are RTW.

But I do not have the flare when standing up. When I walk the pockets flare a liitle, but I think it is acceptable.

I am a slim & tall guy. I wear 30'' waist, 33'' leg chinos.

My questions are:
1. Is that normal for the chino pockets to bulge when sitting? Can a tailor do something to remedy that?

2. Wouldn't it be better overall if I went for chinos with jeans style pockets? That should limit the flare...
FYI: I am wearing chinos rather casually: chinos + shirt, chinos + odd jacket, so I do not think that the formality levels would clash.
What do you think of this idea?

Many thanks for help.
 

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