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NEW MEMBER INQUIRIES & QUICK QUESTIONS- CLASSIC MENSWEAR: WK OF JAN 11, 2016

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Murlsquirl, Jan 10, 2016.

  1. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Thanks for the reminder and welcome to the forum. In my opinion, you shouldn't go to an English tailor looking for a Neapolitan style. If that's the style you want, then you should head to Naples or find some Italian RTW options in the UK.
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2016


  2. ShoeFinance77

    ShoeFinance77 Active Member

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    About how much is too much when it comes to getting pants hemmed? I saw some slacks that fit me on Ebay with a 34L, but my true fit is 29.5 - 30 L. I thought I could get these tailored for sure. I also saw a pair of jeans that fit in the waist that were 38-40L.

    How long is too long when it comes to tailoring down to the length that fits you?
     


  3. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Trousers can never be too long to have hemmed. They just cut the fabric and hem to the desired length. Personally, I would not buy a pair of trousers that are over 1.5" too big in the waist. That's just the number I go by...many say 2".
     


  4. ShoeFinance77

    ShoeFinance77 Active Member

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    Awesome news! Thanks for the reply. I've heard the same about the waist as well. More than 2-3 inches and complication happen.
     


  5. TheDon11

    TheDon11 Member

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    Gentlemen,

    First time posting. I need new suits for everyday office wear. My current wardrobe consists entirely of Indochino and I want to upgrade to a quality MTM or bespoke suit. I am considering the following:

    1. Local tailor is offering barberis super 110s suit for $795 CAD ($560 USD).
    2. Bespoke suit (assuming well made) starting at $1200CAD-$1500CAD
    3. Your opinions

    Concerns: Does the quality of an entry level bespoke suit (considering it is well made) justify a 50-70% premium over the barberis super 100s? is $560USD a fair price (assuming it is well made)?

    The local tailor I am considering is Blair Shapera (http://www.blairshapera.com/index.php)

    Kind Regards
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2016


  6. Bengan

    Bengan Member

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    I have considered going to a bespoke tailor, but I am extremely hesitant to do so. The bespoke market in Scandinavia is very small and my impression is that many tailors who say they can make a good bespoke suit actually lack the necessary experience. You run the risk of paying lots of money for a garment that actually looks worse than a good off-the-peg suit. Here, for example, is a blog post about a guy in Denmark who ended up with a sport coat that seems to be more or less unwearable:

    http://stiljournalen.dk/2010/08/en-blazer-fra-karina-mott-finale.html

    The blog post is in Danish but the long and short of it is that the tailor made the jacket you see in the pictures and stubbornly refused to admit there was anything wrong with it. I've come across several similar horror stories on the internet. As I have no experience of bespoke clothing I feel more comfortable with ready to wear because I know what I get. But the problem is that it seems to be more or less impossible to find a decent suit made of reasonably sturdy cloth.
     


  7. TheDon11

    TheDon11 Member

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    Also if anyone could comment on the quality of Indochino's super 120s fabric compared to the barberis super 110s.
     


  8. Daraven

    Daraven Member

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    About ties: Would it be advisable for someone who doesn't have many tie options to pick up some collection off ebay or a thrift store to get started? Especially on smaller budgets it seems otherwise it will take a long time until you have some more options on ties.
     


  9. heldentenor

    heldentenor Distinguished Member

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    Thrift stores aren't a bad option if you know what to look for, but I would caution against buying a wholesale collection of ties off of eBay. It's likely that if they are being sold as such, they either have significant wear or they are leftovers after stores/sellers sell their more versatile and desirable models. When possible, go slowly and get staple ties that will last you for awhile.
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2016


  10. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Sorry I missed this Don and welcome to the forum. So that is extremely cheap for a bespoke suit and the price would worry me a little bit....too cheap. I would consider another MTM option first unless you have seen his work and liked it. Have you taken a look at Kent Wang?

    First, don't get too caught up in fabric super ratings. It is just a number that represents the fineness of the wool fibers. There is crap 120s and great 120s...Indochino doesn't weave their own fabric. What they offer under their label are fabrics they have chosen from whatever mill they use. It's best to see fabrics in person to make a decision and companies in the business of MTM will usually send swatches.

    Is there any reason you need MTM? Have you tried many RTW options?
     


  11. Bengan

    Bengan Member

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    Are you sure that what Mr Shapera is offering you is a bespoke suit? His website says he does MTM, but nothing about bespoke as far as I can see:

    Quote:
     


  12. TheDon11

    TheDon11 Member

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    Thanks for the reply! I will try and touch on all your comments.

    I haven't heard anything regarding Kent Wang, can you elaborate?
    What price point should I be looking at for a good quality bespoke?
    I understand that there are bad 120s and good 120s, I will probably be just as useless seeing fabrics in person. The only thing I really know is that I want a 2v2 weave worsted wool, medium weight.
    I am an ex-varsity athlete and I am an amateur bodybuilder so OTR never fits properly. Even the Indochino suits don't fit perfectly after 4 suits and multiple adjustments. Because of this, I am more inclined to get bespoke so I know it is perfect. I liked Indochino a few years ago when the USD/CAD made the price reasonable, however I am now paying a 40% premium for nothing.

    In the end, if a bespoke is marginally better than a quality MTM I may be more inclined to go with a quality MTM. Can you comment on the barberis super 110s suit for $795 CAD ($560 USD)?

    Thanks again for your reply, it is greatly appreciated.
     


  13. TheDon11

    TheDon11 Member

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  14. TheDon11

    TheDon11 Member

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    In addition his facebook sale event mentions bespoke per the following:

    "Men's Suits from $295
    Bespoke Jackets from $495
    Samuelsohn Suits from $795
    Tie Blowout from $25

    Bespoke Suits - 2 for $1999
    (from in stock lengths)"
     


  15. Daraven

    Daraven Member

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    Alright I guess I am stuck with my small selection of ties for now. Shame they mostly are blue - haha!
    Are there any brands you can recommend that are a good deal between quality and price?
     


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