1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

NEW MEMBER INQUIRIES & QUICK QUESTIONS- CLASSIC MENSWEAR: WK OF JAN 11, 2016

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Murlsquirl, Jan 10, 2016.

  1. Bengan

    Bengan Member

    Messages:
    9
    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2016
    I have considered going to a bespoke tailor, but I am extremely hesitant to do so. The bespoke market in Scandinavia is very small and my impression is that many tailors who say they can make a good bespoke suit actually lack the necessary experience. You run the risk of paying lots of money for a garment that actually looks worse than a good off-the-peg suit. Here, for example, is a blog post about a guy in Denmark who ended up with a sport coat that seems to be more or less unwearable:

    http://stiljournalen.dk/2010/08/en-blazer-fra-karina-mott-finale.html

    The blog post is in Danish but the long and short of it is that the tailor made the jacket you see in the pictures and stubbornly refused to admit there was anything wrong with it. I've come across several similar horror stories on the internet. As I have no experience of bespoke clothing I feel more comfortable with ready to wear because I know what I get. But the problem is that it seems to be more or less impossible to find a decent suit made of reasonably sturdy cloth.
     
  2. TheDon11

    TheDon11 Member

    Messages:
    10
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2016
    Also if anyone could comment on the quality of Indochino's super 120s fabric compared to the barberis super 110s.
     
  3. Daraven

    Daraven Member

    Messages:
    8
    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2016
    Location:
    Germany
    About ties: Would it be advisable for someone who doesn't have many tie options to pick up some collection off ebay or a thrift store to get started? Especially on smaller budgets it seems otherwise it will take a long time until you have some more options on ties.
     
  4. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

    Messages:
    2,382
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2013
    Location:
    The Frozen Tundra
    Thrift stores aren't a bad option if you know what to look for, but I would caution against buying a wholesale collection of ties off of eBay. It's likely that if they are being sold as such, they either have significant wear or they are leftovers after stores/sellers sell their more versatile and desirable models. When possible, go slowly and get staple ties that will last you for awhile.
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2016
  5. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

    Messages:
    8,962
    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Location:
    CA
    

    Sorry I missed this Don and welcome to the forum. So that is extremely cheap for a bespoke suit and the price would worry me a little bit....too cheap. I would consider another MTM option first unless you have seen his work and liked it. Have you taken a look at Kent Wang?

    First, don't get too caught up in fabric super ratings. It is just a number that represents the fineness of the wool fibers. There is crap 120s and great 120s...Indochino doesn't weave their own fabric. What they offer under their label are fabrics they have chosen from whatever mill they use. It's best to see fabrics in person to make a decision and companies in the business of MTM will usually send swatches.

    Is there any reason you need MTM? Have you tried many RTW options?
     
  6. Bengan

    Bengan Member

    Messages:
    9
    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2016
    Are you sure that what Mr Shapera is offering you is a bespoke suit? His website says he does MTM, but nothing about bespoke as far as I can see:

    Quote:
     
  7. TheDon11

    TheDon11 Member

    Messages:
    10
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2016
    Thanks for the reply! I will try and touch on all your comments.

    I haven't heard anything regarding Kent Wang, can you elaborate?
    What price point should I be looking at for a good quality bespoke?
    I understand that there are bad 120s and good 120s, I will probably be just as useless seeing fabrics in person. The only thing I really know is that I want a 2v2 weave worsted wool, medium weight.
    I am an ex-varsity athlete and I am an amateur bodybuilder so OTR never fits properly. Even the Indochino suits don't fit perfectly after 4 suits and multiple adjustments. Because of this, I am more inclined to get bespoke so I know it is perfect. I liked Indochino a few years ago when the USD/CAD made the price reasonable, however I am now paying a 40% premium for nothing.

    In the end, if a bespoke is marginally better than a quality MTM I may be more inclined to go with a quality MTM. Can you comment on the barberis super 110s suit for $795 CAD ($560 USD)?

    Thanks again for your reply, it is greatly appreciated.
     
  8. TheDon11

    TheDon11 Member

    Messages:
    10
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2016
  9. TheDon11

    TheDon11 Member

    Messages:
    10
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2016
    In addition his facebook sale event mentions bespoke per the following:

    "Men's Suits from $295
    Bespoke Jackets from $495
    Samuelsohn Suits from $795
    Tie Blowout from $25

    Bespoke Suits - 2 for $1999
    (from in stock lengths)"
     
  10. Daraven

    Daraven Member

    Messages:
    8
    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2016
    Location:
    Germany
    Alright I guess I am stuck with my small selection of ties for now. Shame they mostly are blue - haha!
    Are there any brands you can recommend that are a good deal between quality and price?
     
  11. TheDon11

    TheDon11 Member

    Messages:
    10
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2016
    I think you posted this in the wrong thread.
     
  12. Daraven

    Daraven Member

    Messages:
    8
    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2016
    Location:
    Germany
    No, I was replying to heldentenor's answer to my new members question...
     
  13. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Senior member

    Messages:
    3,445
    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2009
     
  14. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

    Messages:
    8,962
    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Location:
    CA
    

    Kent Wang is an Affiliate Vendor of ours that has a MTM program a lot of members are happy with. You can check out his thread here on the forum or website for more info.

    The second question is hard to answer. In short, beposke should always result in a better fit than MTM. There are bespoke tailors that aren't so great and some real bad MTM out there. That said, good bespoke should always be better than good MTM. I'm saying all of this as a guy with some good MTM, but I'm not a bespoke customer at the moment. I really think you should stick around here for a while and do some research before you jump into rebuilding your wardrobe. Otherwise, you might waste even more money...we've all done it.
     
  15. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

    Messages:
    8,962
    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Location:
    CA
    

    Yep, pretty sure he is and I really like what I've seen from there MTM results. Stop changing your damn avatar! Confusing the hell out of me.
     
  16. Technica

    Technica Active Member

    Messages:
    27
    Joined:
    Jan 13, 2016
    Location:
    Oxford (UK)
    Hello, new SF member here.

    I am looking for a nice pair of military style leather boots for this winter, and came across the Crockett and Jones Coniston boots which I really like.

    They are available in both navy and tan colours, and while I really love the navy, how versatile of a colour is navy for shoes? Is it too restrictive or can it be worn with many different outfits incl suit? Would the tan be more versatile?

    I normally wear very smart to work, a pair of nice chinos and button up shirt and overcoat/trench coat is my usual attire.

    Thanks!
     
  17. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

    Messages:
    2,382
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2013
    Location:
    The Frozen Tundra
    Sure. If you don't mind buying from overseas, the current exchange rate means that both Henry Carter in Australia and Exquisite Trimmings in the UK are great deals. I have ties from both and recommend them highly. In the US, Conrad Wu and Kent Wang both sell solid staples for reasonable prices. Some of these brands offer discounts to StyleForum members, so check their respective affiliate threads to see how that works.
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. Daraven

    Daraven Member

    Messages:
    8
    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2016
    Location:
    Germany
    Thank you very much sir! Having a quick look around Exquisite Trimmings before bed time... somehow my brain instantly focuses on the blue ones though. Help!
     
  19. heldentenor

    heldentenor Senior member

    Messages:
    2,382
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2013
    Location:
    The Frozen Tundra
    This is a job for @Claghorn . He will likely tell you that a solid brown and a solid or neat patterned green should be high on your list if you have some navy already--advice that I wholeheartedly endorse.
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2016
  20. Bengan

    Bengan Member

    Messages:
    9
    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2016
    Apparently it costs SEK 23,000, which is almost US$ 3,000. That's more than I am willing too spend, I'm afraid.

    A couple of hours of googling turned up two more shops that list fabric weights and sell suits made of 14 ounce cloth:

    http://www.cordings.co.uk/menswear/city-suits
    http://www.pakeman.co.uk/category/110/Single_Breasted_Suits

    I'll probably go for the grey birdseye suit from Pakeman, Catto & Carter.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by