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NEW MEMBER INQUIRIES & QUICK QUESTIONS- CLASSIC MENSWEAR: WK OF AUG 17, 2015

Murlsquirl

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New SF member and not sure where to find the answer you're looking for? Have a quick question that doesn't belong in a current thread? Welcome, you found the right place.

This is a weekly thread where new users can ask quick questions and get a solid answer. If a thread already exists that would be more helpful, we will point you in the right direction. The only stupid question is the one that isn't asked.....so ask away!
 

Maaasih

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Yes, Carmina are GYW and the construction is far better than AE. You can study up on them and find sizing info here http://www.styleforum.net/t/241469/carmina-shoes-official-affiliate-thread. I don't have an personal experience with Santoni, other than trying on a couple pairs.
Thanks alot!! I have two more questions if you don't mind


1. One thing I didn't like about the AE's was the styling. They were a little "short" (English styling?). Do the Carmina's have a "longer" toe box? I guess more of an Italian styling? (I know they are a Spanish brand)

2. Does the Work Wear model come with a leather sole? I looked through the websites collection and found a model just called "Dress Shoe," however, it looks slightly different than the one you posted (color & stitching).

http://www.skoaktiebolaget.se/collections/carmina/products/carmina-black-dress-shoes
 

Murlsquirl

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Thanks alot!! I have two more questions if you don't mind


1. One thing I didn't like about the AE's was the styling. They were a little "short" (English styling?). Do the Carmina's have a "longer" toe box? I guess more of an Italian styling? (I know they are a Spanish brand)

2. Does the Work Wear model come with a leather sole? I looked through the websites collection and found a model just called "Dress Shoe," however, it looks slightly different than the one you posted (color & stitching).

http://www.skoaktiebolaget.se/collections/carmina/products/carmina-black-dress-shoes
They have a bunch of different styles and lasts so their will definitely be something you like. Here is the official site http://www.carminashoemaker.com
 

dawgsfan2015

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first time poster-

I inherited a pair of black AE chesters. They are by far and away the most expensive shoe in my collection. I went out and got some cedar shoe trees from Nordstrom. I was told never to polish the shoe to a high shine, why is this?

My only issue is that the shoes start to smell towards the end of the day. I am careful to never wear them more than once a week and they go on the shoe tree the rest of the time. I don't have 'smell' issues with my Florsheim, Rockport or Joseph Abboud, so what am I doing wrong?

thanks.
 

wonderd

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Hello everyone. Does anyone have any suggestions for a nice tan pea coat for a smaller/medium build gentlemen? I'd like to get one this year. I currently been wearing an all black one for a couple years and looking to switch it up. Around the $500 range if possible.

Thanks everyone!
 

Murlsquirl

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Hello everyone. Does anyone have any suggestions for a nice tan pea coat for a smaller/medium build gentlemen? I'd like to get one this year. I currently been wearing an all black one for a couple years and looking to switch it up. Around the $500 range if possible.

Thanks everyone!
Welcome to the forum, wonder. Have you checked Yoox? I'd bet they have something you'd like.
 

ilovecats

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Hello!

I am going to university this fall and since I am going to be studying business I though it would be a wise idea to upgrade my style. I read a ton of information over the past week and I pretty much know exactly what I am looking for. I want to build a versatile wardrobe. I was thinking about dressing up jeans with formal shoes and dress shirts. Considering that most students wear sneakers and hoodies, I don't want to feel too out of place wearing a suit, but I also want to be noticed. I also want to go with quality rather than quantity so I made a list of the items I intend to acquire:

Jackets
Navy Pea Coat
Denim Jacket
Grey Blazer

Tops
4-5 Dress Shirts (Combination of White and Blue)
A couple of V Neck Sweaters (Navy, Black, Grey)
Grey Cardigan

Pants
Slim Fit Jeans
Navy Dress Pants

Shoes
Tan Plain Toe Derby Shoes
Tan Monk-Strap Shoes
Black Formal Boots

This gives me plenty of options as I could combine most of the items and layer as the weather gets colder.
I have two questions.
- I have seen and read a lot of different information. Do I have to wear formal shoes with a formal belt, even with jeans? It makes perfect sense to me, but I have seen quite a lot of the opposite.
- I am going to need at least one more winter pair of shoes in brown. Which type of winter shoes shall I opt for? Are chelsea boots a good idea?

Thank you for reading!
 
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Anissa

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I found a Hermes tie and everything checks out as being authentic except the serial number. It is a six digit number beginning with 6 and followed by PA at the end. My understanding is Hermes begins their serial numbers on ties with a 5 or 7. Any input?
 

Murlsquirl

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Innominatus9

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A few basic questions:

Are broadcloth dress shirts suitable for the summer?

Are checkered button-down dress shirts considered "casual" for the office workplace?

How can I stop the fabric in the crotch area from bulging up when I am sitting? I purchased 34 x 31 dress pants from Haggar.

Thanks
 

celery

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@wonderd https://www.gloverall.com/ makes some nice coats that might suit what you're looking for.

@Innominatus9 Well how about this . . . broadcloth isn't unsuitable for the summer. If you're specifically looking for a lightweight hot weather fabric, you want to look at open weaves. But chances are you'll be fine with broadcloth.

Solids are generally more formal and the more you deviate in terms of patterns and number of colors the more casual. Of course, you need to take into account your particular office. Do people even wear sport coats? Ties? Sketchers? That should help inform your decision more than whether it's "casual" in a greater sense.

Well, hmmm, zipperections are a thing that happens. It's unlikely you can fix a pair of trousers without alterations. Off the rack clothing might fit around the waist and have a decent length, but your rise can vary from someone with the same size waist/inseam length. So MTM / bespoke next time around or keep looking for trousers that fit you better from different makers. Go to a department store and try some on, sit down and take note! Or just ignore it, it's really not a big deal.
 

Isochronous

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Half an inch should be visible when standing normally, right? One of my suit jackets' has sleeves that are exactly the same as the shirt. My local alteration lady refused to do the alteration and insisted there was nothing wrong with it as is. Or was that just her excuse for not wanting the job/it being too difficult?

Also, when you get jacket sleeves altered, is it better to have the tailor make the alteration at the bottom of the sleeve, or at the top at the arm hole area?
 

Murlsquirl

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Half an inch should be visible when standing normally, right? One of my suit jackets' has sleeves that are exactly the same as the shirt. My local alteration lady refused to do the alteration and insisted there was nothing wrong with it as is. Or was that just her excuse for not wanting the job/it being too difficult?

Also, when you get jacket sleeves altered, is it better to have the tailor make the alteration at the bottom of the sleeve, or at the top at the arm hole area?
I prefer 1/4 inch. You need to find a new tailor. The only reason you would ever shorten sleeves from the shoulder would be when the jacket has functioning cuffs....not a job for any ol' alterations shop. If not, it is a simple procedure to shorten from the sleeve bottom.
 

Mick M

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I am looking to purchase a solid navy suit and would appreciate any advice on the best choice for something smart and stylish looking in the $400-$700 range. Being 40 years old and working as a banker, I don't want to wear the typical boxy banker suit nor do I want the super skinny and tight look so I am trying to find a happy medium of smart, professional and comfortable. I should also add that I live in Los Angeles and looking for something that I can wear most of the year without sweating.

I have read great reviews on the Siena and Napoli suits from Suitsupply and also purchased some things from Bonobos and thought the quality was decent.

Many thanks in advance for input.
 

mirios

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Hi Everyone,

I am new to this forum, but have been using this forum for all my research on men's shoe wear brands, shoe care, and overall shoe knowledge. I am curious about something I heard about today. I thought I had my shoe polishing down, but what I heard sort of contradicts using meltonian shoe polish, and I want to consult the opinion of you gentlemen. I just bought some good year welted (optima) Johnston & Murphy black cap toe shoes. The man who helped me pick them out, was very eager to sell me J&M black shoe polish, and I replied by stating that I already had kiwi and meltonian polish, and that I had a process. As an FYI for you guys I use the process from the blog from the shoesnob to polish my shoes (link: http://www.theshoesnobblog.com/polish-your-shoes-properly).

Now what the guy at J&M replied to my reply was that meltonian had alcohol in their polish and that would ruin the shinyness or overall color or staining of the leather from J&M shoes. He continued by adding that J&M use to have alcohol in their polish, but has since moved away from that. He showed me 2 shoes with different color tones (both brown, one shinier than the other), and mentioned one was not polished using J&M polish and used polish with alcohol, and the other was with their non-alcohol polish (you guys can probably guess which one was the shiny one according to the guy at the store). So in conclusion, what I want to ask of you guys is do you have ANY experience with J&M shoes and using meltonian, or experience with the discoloration or different tone by using meltonian vs any other polish or J&M polish? Or any sort of reassuring feedback that the process I am following is good and I should continue to use meltonian polish with kiwi wax polish + water drip combo to achieve a shiny apperance? I have personally used the shoe snobs method (obviously not to the entent of doing many several coats of wax polish with water) but a few quotes and it seems to have worked. Granted I used this method in some Banana Republic shoes that don't seem to have the best quality of leather, given that they have sort of degraded over a year and half that i have had them.

So any help you guys can lend will be very much appreciated as I am eagerly trying to decide what to do. Should I keep the J&M shoes or return them, or should also change my polishing process or what...

Thanks and Best Regards,

Miguel
 

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