New member and first bespoke suit: looking for some advice on style

[danielvh]

Hi guys,

This is a cross-post from Ask Andy's forum but I was told this place is better to ask about bespoke advice. Basically, I'm going to be getting a bespoke suit made soon when I get back to my hometown of Perth (Western Australia). I'm looking for it to be the first piece of a new wardrobe I'm trying to build (I currently have other suits but none of them are that great). I'm also a fairly big guy so would like it to be suitable for my size.

As some background: I work in management consulting where the dress code is generally relatively informal (no jacket, no tie) but more formal when meeting clients, at least for the first time. So I need something versatile that I can dress up and down. I was thinking a 3-piece where I mostly I would only wear the waistcoat and something like a button-down shirt most of the time, but then add the jacket, nicer shirt (non button-down) and tie when meeting clients.

So here's what I'm thinking:
- 3-piece charcoal
- Not sure on fabric type/weight. I prefer the look of the heavier weights and they seem to drape better but Perth is a fairly hot climate.
- Single-breast jacket with 2 buttons or possible a 3-roll-2 (the AAAC guys convinced me against a 3-button). Horizontal pockets with flaps?
- Dual side vents
- Trousers designed to be only worn with braces
- Probably standard trouser pocket style. I was thinking horizontal but noone at AAAC seemed to like the idea
- Working real horn buttons on the jacket
- Button fly (just a personal preference over zip which I think looks a little cheap)
- Probably double forward-facing pleats on the trousers
- Standard height turn-ups/cuffs on trousers.
- Not sure on waistcoat style; thoughts?

Also, what do you guys recommend for ways to wear good clothes but conform to a business-casual office environment. The standard around the office is dress trousers, nice shoes and dress shirt with no tie, but preferably I'd like to go just a little more formal than this (hence why I want the option to wear just the waistcoat. I guess I'll also use V-neck knitwear and possibly a north face or RM Williams lightweight fleece vest)

Also, I could do with some shirt advice as well (will probably get some made at the same time). While wearing a tie the 3-piece or 2-piece without the waistcoat I'd probably instinctively go for a point collar and 2-button barrel cuffs (I think cufflinks would be seen as a bit too flashy), and while just wearing a waistcoat without a tie I was leaning towards button-down, probably also with 2-button barrel cuffs.

Any other advice?

Thanks and sorry for the long post,

Daniel

 

[Mildly Consumptive]

I cannot support wearing the trousers and vest without a tie unless you are an Omnisexual Rock God:

 

[teddieriley]

I would advise against a 3 piece for your first commission. I imagine your first suit will not be perfect fitting, so don't spend the extra coin for the vest.