New & Lingwood Bespoke Cap-Toe Adelaide

[pejsek]

This is an interesting shoe. It was made back in 1989 (which I believe may be the tail-end of the Cleverley era). Quite characteristic of the N&L look is the small slightly tapered heel. The leather is very soft, which gives rise to the crackling effect.

 

[DocHolliday]

Thanks for sharing the pics! It's a handsome design. What are your thoughts on the crackling? Did you know the leather was going to be so soft as to do that?

 

[pejsek]

Well, these were not originally my shoes. Like so many of my things these came to me from the thrift store. The design is quite characteristically bespoke and I agree with you that they are handsome. The leather, though, is very peculiar--obviously high-quality and quite thick, but still extremely soft and supple. I think the crackling is a very distinguished effect (especially since the shoes come by it honestly; nothing like showing your age!).

 

[rabbimark]

I suspect the slight upward angle on the heels is the result of the originals being replaced. I had a pair of Church's cap toes that originally had a very low heel (the consul model, if anyone remembers) and when they were re-heeled a few years later, the guy put too much into it, with the same result as here.

the upper looks like deerskin to me, with the striations. Not the heel piece or the toe cap, but the part in between. I am currently wearing a pair of Swiss made Ballys from 1991 that have an nearly identical design.

These are quite handsome, hopefully they fit you well!

 

[pejsek]

Yes, I think deerskin is a very good guess. Thanks for pointing that out, rabbimark. The heels are definitely the original ones, though. The pictures may not do them full justice, but they are quite expertly executed--small, shapely and very gently tapered. Many bespoke makers seem to single out the heel for a distinctly handmade treatment that sets it apart from rtw. I think that's what's going on here.

 

[Roger]

I've seen that heel configuration referred to as (a) a "pitched" heel and (b) a "cuban" heel. Some men think it looks a little effeminate (since many women's shoes have it), but it is fairly common on top-of-the-line bespoke shoes, and I really like it.

 

[luk-cha]

great shoes and a great find too - lucky sod!