1. Hi. We moved systems, and because it was impossible to achieve feature parity between the systems, we opted to archive the old B&S threads but allow users to read them so that they can put them into our new B&S system.

    There is a support thread if you have any issues.

    Cheers,

    Fok.

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NEW--Kicking Mule Workshop--what's new?

Discussion in 'Styleforum archived editorial articles' started by shoreman1782, Dec 9, 2010.

  1. entrero

    entrero Senior member

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    anyone know what tanning process they're referring to?

    repeatedly dipped and dried in the sun with fish oil.

    Not sure how much marketing is involved. Use of fish oil is nothing unique to the Japanese. English tanneries use cod oil during currying leather. Of course every tannery has their special/secret way of doing things.
     


  2. Jay-D

    Jay-D Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    Great interview.....and I agree with Blake, I would stack their denim in terms of construction, details, and fits against any label.

    That leather bag is incredible!

    Not sure how much marketing is involved. Use of fish oil is nothing unique to the Japanese. English tanneries use cod oil during currying leather. Of course every tannery has their special/secret way of doing things.

    Using fish oil is not new to the Japanese and that is the point. It is ancient process and there are not that many tanneries using the technique as it is very time consuming and it takes a bit of artisan knowledge to do it right, plus more labor costs. For instance, chrome tanning is something that can be done in a few hours, using fish oil takes days.

    Making the rockers even looser? Better size down 2 now!

    Probably not. I am thinking still sizing down 1. The LHT is actually a tighter weave and doesn't stretch as much or as quickly as previous fabrics. I tried on a sample and the fit is definitely different and it looked more loose in the calves. This was only a sample, so we will wait to see what the final cut looks like. This starts fall 2011 collection.

    Any idea if they are ever going to make the canvas jean in a 1950 cut?

    Not for spring 2011, but they are working on kinds of things. Possibly distant future.

    awesome interview.

    I noticed they fell off at most stores and were being clearance'd out. I really am looking for more in the rocker fit though. I hope they come out with black rockers shortly. Another wish is that they are more available, maybe it's how they operate but I'd like to be able to walk into a department store and pick up a pair.


    Black rockers are available spring 2011, February delivery. We will stock them. Same fabric as the sulphur dye 1980's we have in stock.

    Not being sold in every department store is some fo the appeal. I work closely with KMW because they are more exclusive.
     


  3. hboogz

    hboogz Senior member

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    That was a great interview. Well done Fok.
     


  4. jet

    jet Persian Bro

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    360 closing in on designer territory? that's past designer territory and even I think it's far too excessive for a strip of leather

    should be no more than 200
     


  5. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    360 closing in on designer territory? that's past designer territory and even I think it's far too excessive for a strip of leather

    should be no more than 200


    MA+ belts = $350+ (on past $800)

    Julius belts = $400+

    Carol Christian Poell distressed belt = $600+

    Dior Homme belts = $300+ (regularly above $400)

    Hermes belts = start at $760

    Bottega Veneta belts = $300+, many above $500

    Not saying that designer belts are all this much, but it's not uncommon for them to be $500+.
     


  6. jet

    jet Persian Bro

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    ccp belts were same price as kmw last few times I checked atelier, maybe slightly more

    doesn't matter anway I'll stick to my 45rpm if I feel like wearing a belt, this thing is more for the jcrew/ww crowd

    plus i can get ccp for dirt cheap if i wanted to go that route
     


  7. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    ccp belts were same price as kmw last few times I checked atelier, maybe slightly more

    doesn't matter anway I'll stick to my 45rpm if I feel like wearing a belt, this thing is more for the jcrew/ww crowd

    plus i can get ccp for dirt cheap if i wanted to go that route


    I like the 45RPM belts, but even in the "jeans" category, which is what R for 45RPM is about, (and what you like the refer to derisively as the "J Crew crowd), there are plenty of examples of belts well above $360. Henry Cuir is usually above $450, for example.

    In any case, the price is definitely high for men's contemporary, which is why I asked the question.

    So what if you can get stuff for cheap. We are talking about retail.
     


  8. somatoform

    somatoform Senior member

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    Personally, I could care less about KMW belt pricing. I myself would ideally not like to spend more than $100 for a belt, though I might make the exception for a $185 Samurai.

    The problem, however, is how KMW words themselves in relation to the inquiry on their belt pricing:

    Sticking with the theme of wearing in rather than wearing out, we like to think that our belts are not just belts, but heirlooms. We hope this belt gets handed down for generations. It really will last that long and just continue getting better. I don’t think $360 seems disproportionate; besides, it cost a ton to handmake these in Japan so we can’t sell them for less.

    Let's be honest, this is pretty silly.

    I mean, yeah, theoretically any (and I mean here the under $100 or under $200 belts we see so often on SF) good piece of leather could become a heirloom and get handed down for generations, and will get better with time and use - afterall, that's what leather does.

    Myself, I have a custom leather belt (made local) from '95. It was probably at its best around the 5 year mark, but it's perfectly functional (distorted in shape, but functional), and I could hand it down to my grand children if they would care to have an uberpatinated piece of shit. "It will really last that long"? Yeah, we know, leather has a way of doing that - lasting long.

    Again, I'm not bitter about not being able to get a KMW belt (I wouldn't want one anyways - I have a thing for 1 3/4" belts only), but the whole way they word this answer just makes me say "duh", "really?" and "leather? getting better over time and lasting long? BOOM!"
     


  9. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I thought that the pricing was high enough to warrant the question.
     


  10. somatoform

    somatoform Senior member

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    It's a good question and a good interview. I was just expecting them to talk about carefully beveled edges, awesome back side finishing, waxing/sealing/burnishing techniques, interesting dyeing, custom base metal buckles, and the like (what, IMO, you do not really get with an LGC and all the 'artisan' leather belt makers that have flooded SF), not 'it will last long and will look even better when it ages'. Something at least more akin to what they intimate with their bags.
     


  11. robbie

    robbie Pleading Poverty

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    nice stuff, and hearing they are easing up the fit on the rockers makes me think another pair is in my future as opposed to LVC 66 505's.

    also- this 'jcrew' talk even in jest was old 3 years ago.
     


  12. mikecch

    mikecch Senior member

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    Using fish oil is not new to the Japanese and that is the point. It is ancient process and there are not that many tanneries using the technique as it is very time consuming and it takes a bit of artisan knowledge to do it right, plus more labor costs. For instance, chrome tanning is something that can be done in a few hours, using fish oil takes days.
    ? Chrome tanning is a type of tannage. Hand application of cod oil is secondary processing after the leather has been converted from raw hide. They are different aspects of making leather. And really, the process of hand-currying and dyeing, etc, at least to me, is a minimum requirement for bridle style leather. That's what makes bridle leather, well, bridle. It's not a magical process that warrants a high price, it's a minimum requirement.
     


  13. jarude

    jarude Senior member

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    Really glad to see KMW is sticking around. 1980 is the best jean.
     


  14. caff

    caff Well-Known Member

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    great interview. They're back on my radar now for my next pair..
     


  15. skywalker

    skywalker Senior member

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    Hey, what stores are still stocking KMW besides blue owl? I'm having a hard time finding sites who stock rockers.
     


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