New jeans, PBJ XX-005 or Studio D'Artisan SD-D1002?

[denning]

I'm looking for a new pair of jeans and have been doing a fair bit of research and I want to get a top notch pair of jeans this time around. I have a pair of Crate James in black with which the fit is spot on, but as tempted as I was to get them in indigo I want to get something of a little higher quality. Once again I was tempted by John Bull Sewing Chops SC007 (a la Fok), but those are not available and the SC003 is a too slim for what I am looking for.

So next up the list are the ones I am most seriously considering, PBJ XX-005 and Studio D'Artisan SD-D1002 (SD 103s look good, but taper at the bottom in my size which doesn't look so good on me). I want either a true straight leg or a barely there bootcut.

I have been waiting for BiG to get new stock of the PBJs in and they did today, but they don't have the size I think I need listed, 33. My actual waist is 33", I'm 6' and 165 lbs. I wear a 31 in Crate and a 30 in Habitual. My question is, the size 32 which is available lists the pre-shrinking waist at 34.5". Can anyone who owns these tell me how much shrinking they experienced? I've read through the whole PBJ thread on the other SF several times and it seems like the general consensus is about 2 inches. So following the soak the size 32 would be 32.5" in the waist. can I expect any stretching folllowing the soak? If I get even a half inch I may be able to squeak by with the 32s but I don't really want to chance it.

Also, anyone who has the SD-D1002s, what is the denim like? Is it slubby like the PBJs? Any comparisons between the PBJ denim and the SD for those who have seen both would be really helpful.

I don't live in a place with access to any top quality jeans so am making this decision based on other people's experiences and input. So any other recommendations of jeans which I am missing out on (Imperial Kings, SExIH, Ande Whall Grifters, Somet) would be helpful.

Thanks

 

[Saucemaster]

The PBJs, with their loose weave, will stretch in the waist pretty well if you make them. My 30's were tight at first, then stretched with little difficulty out to around 32.5", which is perfect for me to wear them on my hips (which is where you want to wear them, unless you want some crotch constriction and/or for them to be painted on your ass like girl jeans). I originally didn't want to size down, but Gordon at BiG recommended it, and he was right. They're not like APC-level stretchy, but if you *need* them to stretch, they will.

My advice is not to worry too much about the waist measurements--I'm pretty much 100% positive that 32s would easily stretch to a measured 33" even after a wash or long hot soak, since my 30s stretched a bit more than that even--and to think instead about the leg measurements, particularly the thigh measurements. Buy whatever size has the thigh measurements you want, within maybe a size or two either way. If they're a little large, they won't stretch much anyway, and if they're a little small, you should be able to stretch them out pretty easily.

And if it helps at all, I'm usually a size 30 in Nudies, size 29 or even 28 in APCs, etc. I basically ended up getting my Nudie size in PBJs, and it worked out perfectly.

Unfortunately I never tried on the SDA 1002's, so I can't help you there. I do know that SDA denim is much less uneven and slubby than the PBJ denim, which is not to say that it's not amazing denim--just different.

 

[minya]

might want to consider the Flat Head 3001. Sanforized w/ zip fly, slim straight leg + beautiful denim. Probably going to be my next pair of jeans.

 

[swisloc]

they are made of completely different denim. SDA would never be considered "slubby" and appears (and feels) much smoother in person than the PBJ's. That said, I personally prefer the SDA. That particular model has grey weft threads and left hand twill, which makes them unique in their own way. i especially like the grey weft... it gives the denim this dull, almost uniformally dark look that is hard to discribe without seeing in person. Also, keep in mind that the D1002 is very slightly flared (1/2" i believe from knee to hem), so the fit will be a bit different.

 

[mikesduc]

I have both and would say if you like a more refined hipster look get the SDA's. If you like a more "regular" jean get the 005's. I got the 1002's in 33 and they are nice and slim but not tight. They stretch where you want them to. I have the 005's in 34 because I wanted a little looser fit and due to advice on this forum and the other SF. I could easily gotten a 33 but I think I made the right decision.

If I had to choose one I would get the SDA w/o question. I tried on a lot of jeans at BIG and the D1002's were my favorite by far. The SDA's IMO are much more versatile. I wear them with chucks and a T or with Chelsea's and a sport coat and they look great either way. They have a very subtle "it" factor that is hard to put your finger on. The 005's pretty much are what they are. Don't get me wrong, I think they are great but are more one dimensional. Also, the SDA's actually had drunk girls in taxicabs yelling at me which made this 40 yr. old father of 4 feel pretty good.

 

[Brian SD]

Originally Posted by minya

might want to consider the Flat Head 3001. Sanforized w/ zip fly, slim straight leg + beautiful denim. Probably going to be my next pair of jeans.

Everything except for the zipper has me liking those jeans a lot. I am a fan of the Full Count 1474 but unfortunately they're not for sale anywhere that I can find.

 

[minya]

Originally Posted by Brian SD

Everything except for the zipper has me liking those jeans a lot. I am a fan of the Full Count 1474 but unfortunately they're not for sale anywhere that I can find.
I felt the same way (re: zipper) until I tried them on (and saw them on other people).... they just fit amazingly. Probably the nicest fit of any Japanese jeans I've seen.

 

[wq1999]

I have both and I agree that they're fairly different. Both are fantastic jeans. The slubbiness of the PBJ looks and feels unique -- unlike any denim I've seen. The SD have a greyish/greenish cast, and have a slightly higher rise than the PBJ. The PBJ is more of a "nuthugging" cut. I typically wear size 30, and have both in size 30, which fit perfectly after a warm soak.

 

[denning]

Thanks for all the replies. I ended up getting the PBJs, but just barely. When I went to the checkout the shipping to Canada was $47. So I started looking at the Ande Whall Grifters, but they are a touch too slim for what I was looking for. I talked to Gordon (fantastic guy) and he said to call the store as the shipping is less then. I did and am currently eagerly anticipating the arrival of my newest denim.

Thanks again,
Stephen

 

[Baron]

For the record, I doubt very much that the Grifters are more slim than the PBJ XX-005. I have the grifters and they don't fit me as slim as any pictures I've seen of people in the PBJ's.

 

[denning]

Sorry Baron, I should have been clearer. I meant with respect to the leg opening where there is a 1 inch differnece.

 

[jet]

Damn these pbjs are rough as hell haha.