new designer in menswear doing research (*US patented dress shirt collars*)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by eric glennie, Jun 26, 2007.

  1. eric glennie

    eric glennie Senior member

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    hello joel cairo! i appreciate your point of view and these collars arent for everyone. my collars are about looking different in a crowd. the psyche of the man's wardrobe is to run with pack and look the same. obviously , you are happy wearing the same penguin suit as everyone else which is fine. please enlighten me your definition of cut-away collar. my collars shows a vertical line over the tie knot and at some point cuts away from the center line ( that imaginery line from the forehead, between the eyes, over the bridge of the nose, splitting the cleft chin, over the tie knot and down the navel). please enligten me on your definition of cutaway collar. by adding a vertical collar, i believe this shirt collar maintains height. in traditional mens dress shirts, the eye travels away from the centerline as the collar tapers 45 degrees from the apex. i want to keep the eye focused up and down on the centerline rather than horizontal. once again. thanks eric.
     


  2. FIHTies

    FIHTies Senior member

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    Broadcasting live from SF:

    Folks, were here to tell you about Adventursome spirit Eric Glenie who asked for honest opinions from the gents over at AAAC and after emerging from there only slightly bruised headed over to SF figuring he would be ok there as well.

    Good idea? This newscaster says no, its about to get ugly.

    Stay tuned!
     


  3. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    hello joel cairo! i appreciate your point of view and these collars arent for everyone. my collars are about looking different in a crowd. the psyche of the man's wardrobe is to run with pack and look the same. obviously , you are happy wearing the same penguin suit as everyone else which is fine. please enlighten me your definition of cut-away collar. my collars shows a vertical line over the tie knot and at some point cuts away from the center line ( that imaginery line from the forehead, between the eyes, over the bridge of the nose, splitting the cleft chin, over the tie knot and down the navel). please enligten me on your definition of cutaway collar. by adding a vertical collar, i believe this shirt collar maintains height. in traditional mens dress shirts, the eye travels away from the centerline as the collar tapers 45 degrees from the apex. i want to keep the eye focused up and down on the centerline rather than horizontal. once again. thanks eric.

    Did you not see the picture I posted? Just look at post # 15.

    Jon.

    BTW: the cutaway collar in one form or another has been in existence for at least 150 years.
     


  4. Joel_Cairo

    Joel_Cairo Senior member

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    eric, please see the image a couple posts back. For the last century or more, a cutaway collar has been one where the points cut back toward the shoulders, leaving a wide space for the tie knot. A cutaway collar is not a turtleneck with a vagina for the tie to slip through.

    asked for honest opinions from the gents over at AAAC and after emerging from there only slightly bruised headed over to SF figuring he would be ok there as well.

    link please [​IMG]
     


  5. FIHTies

    FIHTies Senior member

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    eric, please see the image a couple posts back. For the last century or more, a cutaway collar has been one where the points cut back toward the shoulders, leaving a wide space for the tie knot. A cutaway collar is not a turtleneck with a vagina for the tie to slip through.



    link please [​IMG]



    No...Its better if you formulate your own opinions about the designs than if you are influenced by others.
     


  6. Joel_Cairo

    Joel_Cairo Senior member

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    No...Its better if you formulate your own opinions about the designs than if you are influenced by others.

    but what if I like to run with the pack because I'm an unenlightened acquatic bird... or something like that?
     


  7. eric glennie

    eric glennie Senior member

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    looks like a spread collar to me. please enlighten me on the diffence between a cutaway and spread collar. I would like to get the expert point of view.
     


  8. Joel_Cairo

    Joel_Cairo Senior member

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    looks like a spread collar to me. please enlighten me on the diffence between a cutaway and spread collar. I would like to get the expert point of view.

    I thought experts didn't know anything w/o labels? I have labels on my shirts identifying whther they are "spread" or "cutaway", but its hard to get them off the hanger to read with these damn slippery wings I have.


    [​IMG] < quack quack quack
     


  9. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    looks like a spread collar to me. please enlighten me on the diffence between a cutaway and spread collar. I would like to get the expert point of view.
    Spread collar refers to any collar that is not buttoned down and with an angle over 90 degrees or so. There are many different types of spread collars at different angles. Example:
    [​IMG]

    Within the family of "spread" collars, a "cutaway" collar has a wider angle (sometimes up to flat/180 degrees when seen from the front). Example:
    [​IMG]

    This, for example, is an "extreme cutaway" collar
    [​IMG]
     


  10. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    Spread collar refers to any collar that is not buttoned down and with an angle over 45 degrees or so. There are many different types of spread collars at different angles. Example:
    [​IMG]

    Within the family of "spread" collars, a "cutaway" collar has a wider angle (sometimes up to flat/180 degrees when seen from the front). Example:
    [​IMG]


    Or more than 180 degrees:

    [​IMG]

    Jon.
     


  11. eric glennie

    eric glennie Senior member

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    thanks for the illustration. i have checked the website ( jos a bank) and some others to get clarification on a cutaway and spread collar. i see many collars past the 45 degree angle of the spread collar labeled as spread rather than cutaway. i see some inconsistency in nomenclature. this inconsistency breeds confusion. what is it gentlemen? I see the cutaway design as cutaway in the photo. thanks eric.
     


  12. DoTheGrownup

    DoTheGrownup Senior member

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    This, for example, is an "extreme cutaway" collar
    [​IMG]


    That, to my eyes, is at least as ugly as anything on Eric's site.
     


  13. username79

    username79 Senior member

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    eric, please see the image a couple posts back. For the last century or more, a cutaway collar has been one where the points cut back toward the shoulders, leaving a wide space for the tie knot. A cutaway collar is not a turtleneck with a vagina for the tie to slip through.



    link please [​IMG]


    Finally, it appears someone agrees with me that these collars look a lot like female genitalia. I posted this over at AAAC, but I think the crowd was too gentile to concur.

    You are not reinventing anything here, you are just putting a different collar on a shirt. I hardly think it is revolutionary to change one part of a standard item of clothing. Hell, even I could cut my cuffs into origami ducks and draw vaginas all over it and call it a revolution.
     


  14. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    thanks for the illustration. i have checked the website ( jos a bank) and some others to get clarification on a cutaway and spread collar. i see many collars past the 45 degree angle of the spread collar labeled as spread rather than cutaway. i see some inconsistency in nomenclature. this inconsistency breeds confusion. what is it gentlemen? I see the cutaway design as cutaway in the photo. thanks eric.

    I'm pretty sure we laid it out for you, but in case you missed it here it is:

    A "˜Cutaway' (a name which was in use before both you and I were born, thus you can't claim it) is a very angled "˜Spread' collar. It can range from around the first picture (H&K cutaway) I posted to the very extreme Udeshi shirt gdl203 posted.

    There is no inconsistency in the naming, the rest of us understand which is which.

    Jon.
     


  15. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    That, to my eyes, is at least as ugly as anything on Eric's site.
    You should get your eyes checked ASAP
     


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