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New castangia suit *pics*

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Renault78law, Oct 21, 2004.

  1. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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    Here's the suit that I picked up from Andrew: [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] The link to the original auction and a description is HERE. My main concern is the fit of the shoulders. Â Although I lost some weight recently, my shoulders and arms are still on the big side, which is why I typically buy a size 42, even though my chest measures 40. Â As in my other coats, the arms don't drop straight down from the shoulders...they bulge little outwards. Â However, this coat is much more comfortable than I anticipated, my range of motion is very good. Â Comments? As far as alterations, the first thing that jumps out is that the sleeves are a little short. Â Andrew, you weren't kidding when you said this suit measures as a regular, as opposed to it's marked size, 40L. Â On the other hand, the shirt that I'm wearing in that pic is RTW, and the cuff circumference is far too large. Â Thus, the sleeves aren't as short as one might initially think. Comments about the length of the jacket? Â Front view makes the skirt look a bit short, however, the side view seems to appropriately cut my body in half. Waist could be surpressed a bit. Collar could be shortened a bit. Â You can see wrinkles between my traps on the back view, indicating too much cloth, though it's less pronounced on this suit than my others. I literally just took the jacket out of the box, so I haven't formed too many conclusions yet. Â The first thing I noticed about the suit was how great the fabric was. Â The Super 150's feels more like cashmere to me than wool. Â Also, you can hardly notice wrinkles, even though it was tightly packed in a box. Â Great suit. I have 48 hours to decide whether I'm going to keep it, so that's how long you have to change my mind...please be brutally honest. Â All criticisms welcome.
     
  2. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Well, I sold it to you, but:

    What jumps out at me is that the sleeves need to be lengthened and the collar adjusted.

    Shoulder width and length look right to me for this suit - it is intended to fit slim and short. If you try it on with the slacks (assuming the waist fits) it's going to look a lot better - those slacks have a slim leg that complements the jacket. Make sure to finish them with only a very slight break.

    A super 150's wool fiber is supposed to have the same diameter as a high-grade cashmere fiber. That particular 150's wool fabric makes a lot of cashmere's I've felt seem cheap by comparison. Another thing about that fabric, it has a bit more weight and substantially more natural stretch than most woolen's, so it drapes extremely clean, with nary a wrinkle.
     
  3. drizzt3117

    drizzt3117 Senior member

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    I think the suit looks quite nice, the length seems about right to me. I wonder about the bunching up of the sleeve in the back view but it could have been from it being recently unpacked.
    Other than that, the fit looks quite nice to me, besides the obvious alterations (sleeve, etc)

    Looks like a great suit for the price.
     
  4. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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    Could you please elaborate regarding the collar adjustment? I typically ask that the collar be shortened, to smooth out the wrinkles at the base of the neck, between the traps. But that's where I run into problems. If you take a look at the picture, there's already almost too much shirt collar showing as it is. When the collar is shortened, it's even more pronounced - the suit collar essentially rests at the base of the shirt collar exposing the whole thing, as opposed to a more appropriate .5-.75". Can you think of any solutions?
     
  5. djkovner

    djkovner Well-Known Member

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    I think the jacket looks too short on you. It's not just the sleeves; the jacket barely covered your behind.

    You probably should wear a long.
     
  6. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Hmmm, I'm not sure if cutting away the excess fabric would lower the collar or not, maybe it would just lay smoother, maybe not. It almost looks like the jacket is not sitting correctly on your shoulders - it could sit a bit higher. Shrug your shoulders a bit and see if it settles in a better postion.

    Edit - the shirt can impact the fit of the collar considerably. You might try another shirt and see how it looks. Some RTW shirts have collars that just don't sit right under a jacket (Express comes to mind.)
     
  7. Mike C.

    Mike C. Senior member

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    Great suit. The jacket looks great a bit short, it's more modern that way. Definitly the sleeves need to be let out. No one mentioned that the pants are an inch or two too long, you need to get them hemmed.
     
  8. Alias

    Alias Senior member

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    I echo A. Harris' remark on the collar. I think the problem just might be the jacket not settling on your shoulders the correct way. Alterations probably aren't necessary; see if you're wearing the jacket at the shoulders properly. Judging from the apparent gap between your shirt cuffs and the sleeve ends (not the requisite bit of linen, they look like they're actually hovering as opposed to lightly resting on your shirt cuffs), it looks like you're wearing your jacket pitched backwards a bit, or are standing too erect (probably for the camera.) Again, it's hard to tell from pictures, but I feel that, if you adopt a more natural posture and wear the jacket around a bit to give it a chance to settle properly, the fit will be fine.
     
  9. kidkim2

    kidkim2 Senior member

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    The fabric is superlative, and the suit coat apears to fit perfectly where it absolutely must--in the shoulders/chest.

    But, regarding the jacket length, I'm surprised no one has commented on the triangle of shirt showing above your waistband. If the suit trousers don't have a substantially longer rise than do the trousers in the picture, you're going to have to return the suit. (I note that the slacks you're wearing are already pulled up high, as they should--which makes the coat length adequate as seen from the rear.)

    It's been a long day: What I mean is that the jacket covers your derriere--as another poster has noted. This is all that's needed from the rear view. But if the trousers are allowed to slip at all, the seat of your pants will show in back. A good reason to wear braces with this suit--assuming the rise is long enough in the first place.
     
  10. BjornH

    BjornH Senior member

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    Great suit and you would not be stoned in the street if you wore it as it is. I don't know if you've noticed but your right arm is much lower than the other. Either your arm is longer or your sholder is lower.

    B
     
  11. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    Hmm, is that really a criterion of proper suit fit?  I thought that open or closed front quarters was just another characteristic of a specific suit silhouette.

    dan
     
  12. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  13. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Senior member

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    suit looks great. clearly the sleeves need to be extended, buttons moved-- but the length of the jacket is actually very good (perfectly in line with Flusser's philosophies; makes the legs look longer)
     
  14. MikeF

    MikeF Senior member

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    I think the jacket looks short. That may be how it's "supposed" to look, but my instinctive reaction is that it doesn't fit you.
     
  15. spatten

    spatten Senior member

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    My two cents:

    I think the Jacket looks short in front only because you are wearing your pants low.  The eye is thrown off by the belt, and shirt triangle.  If you wore your pants closer to the natural waist - I think the jacket would look better proportionally.  I think this is why it looks fine in profile.

    Again - fix the sleeves.  I think you could easily keep the jacket with a couple alterations. I was confused by what was said about buttons also.  

    Enjoy,
    Scott

    PS - I like the slim fit, it looks great from the back. Shoulders and chest look good.
     
  16. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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    Wow, this forum never ceases to amaze me. Thanks for all of your astute observations, and please keep them coming.

    My right arm is indeed longer than my left, by less than .5". Or at least that's what my golf club fitter told me. It probably looks longer by more, but as I mentioned earlier, these RTW cuffs are too large and the perceived length descrepency is exasterbated because I wear a rather large chronograph on my left wrist.

    Also, none of my pants or belts fit me anymore at the waist. As a student with lots of free time and a strong interest in triathlon, I've taken up working out up to 20 hours per week, and I've lost inches off my waistline. (By the way, finding a nice belt discounted is no easy task.) I'm a little hesitant to have my pants taken in, because I'm about to start working full-time(+) and anticipate gaining a few pounds again. In any case, as soon as I get a new belt, the pants will sit a little higher on my waist, maybe .5-1.0" higher.

    As far as the coat not settling on my shoulders properly, it might be because my build. I used to swim and play water polo competitively, so vestiges of muscle development on my upper back might have something to do with it. I'll make a note of it and mention the fit to my tailor.

    I'm a little torn on the issue of skirt length. I'll probably leave it as is, but I'll think about it a bit more.

    Someone had commented on button placement, could you please elaborate?

    I would also like to hear critisms regarding the silhouette. As in, do the shoulders and chest suit my build? Would you recommend any other shapes/styles for me?
     
  17. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    I think that the suit is outstanding for what it is -- a stylish, slim cut suit. A few alterations will make it better, but I don't think there is anything drastically wrong here. I agree that having your pants sit higher it a must, otherwise the skirt looks too short.

    I don't know what people were talking about with regards to button placement -- The Foxx was talking about moving the sleeve buttons after lengthing the sleeves, I presume.

    I think that the suit fits your build fine -- you have a good build that pretty much anything will look good on. I don't think you need to take in the waist at all. The cut on the suit is outstanding; I am curious about the pants and how the slim cut looks. Post pics.

    I think if you were going MTM or bespoke, you'd want to lengthen the skirt somewhat -- and I say this more because of your "girth" as opposed to you height (you aren't fat obviously, but you are muscular). But I think that the suit is just too good and will look too good to give it up at the price point you got it at (unless of course this was the only 500 you had to spend).
     
  18. kidkim2

    kidkim2 Senior member

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    Just a note for clarification. Unless you are B. Spears, showing anything between the closed jacket button and waistband is strictly forbidden. (At least that's what it says here.)
     
  19. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    That's what it says where?
     
  20. bryce330

    bryce330 Senior member

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    I disagree - as long as you are showing shirt and not bare skin, it can look perfectly fine, although it depends on the cut of the suit.

    In Renault's case, only a sliver of the shirt is showing. I have two slim-fitting jackets in which there is quite a bit more "triangle" showing than that. Also, the jacket does not appear overly tight, since I don't see any significant pulling at the closed button.
     

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