New Bespoke Trousers from Richard Lim - Los Angeles

[coolal]

So I finally got around to ordering my first pair of trousers with Richard Lim. The cloth is the London Lounge Cloth Club's Brisa in Mid-Gray.

I've got an extensive review of Richard Lim, and his shop High Society, in the pipeline. But the fit on these new trousers was so great that I couldn't wait. In the upcoming review i'll have a walk through of the tailoring spaces and answers to every question and iGent could ask.

I'm convinced these guys are one of the best kept secrets in Los Angeles custom / bespoke tailoring. FYI, the general rule of thumb with Richard Lim: any stitch that you can see while wearing the garment is most likely done by hand. Manually operated machine stitching is used for the rest that you don't see.

*edit* This rule actually only applies to jackets made by Richard.

As this is my first trouser order with Richard Lim, there are still a few MINOR fit issues that I need to resolve. But overall, I think this is remarkable for a first pair. I'll update this post with detail shots of the hand work (extensive), but here are the shots of how they fit.

I'd love any input on what I should tell my tailor to tweak for the next order

Shirt is my first order with bespoke shirtmaker Freddy Vandecasteele of Sherman Oaks

C.M.T rate for the trousers on this order: $250 Style: Medium - Low Rise, Full Break, No Cuff, Flat Front, Button Fly Trouser

Front:

Trouser Side:

Trouser Back:

**Updated 2/14 with "Handwork" Details** Edited out reference to mainly handwork without machine stitching. Trouser construction is by sewing machine, all visible stitches are hand sewn on jacket only. I'm particularly impressed with the button fly.

 

[imatlas]

The pants look pretty good, especially at that price point! The backside is very clean. There's a little more break than is "SF Approved", and some bunching on the right that could be fabric sticking together, on the whole they look excellent. Are the sleeves a little long on the shirt?

 

[coolal]

Originally Posted by imatlas

The pants look pretty good, especially at that price point! The backside is very clean. There's a little more break than is "SF Approved", and some bunching on the right that could be fabric sticking together, on the whole they look excellent. Are the sleeves a little long on the shirt?

Thanks for the compliment! I did notice the break was a tad much. I'm going to have it dialed back a bit for the next pair.

As for the shirt, the sleeves fit very well in terms of length. In the second shot, i have my arms at 90 degrees and if the shirt was any shorter, i'm pretty sure it would hike up my arm. Though, I am thinking about slimming the arms a little. The extra fabric looks like it's coming from the circumference.

 

[teddieriley]

Freddy makes an awesome shirt. reminds me i should place an order with him soon.

 

[oshinex]

I will never get the one back pocket.

 

[maomao1980]

sorry cant stand low rise dress pants.

 

[IBJanky]

too much break
should've gotten 2 rear pockets for symmetry
I prefer a slimmer pant leg, especially from the knees down
shirt is baggy as hell (look at all the excess fabric from the side profile shot)

myke

 

[Shirtmaven]

all very nice.

the seat of the crotch, could be cleaned up a little.

why one pocket on the right?

the shirt looks good. it is not too full at the waist.
you could take a little out of the sleeves.
collar looks good

 

[coolal]

Originally Posted by teddieriley

Freddy makes an awesome shirt. reminds me i should place an order with him soon.
He really does make an awesome shirt! I'll be returning to him this week or next (If I can find the time!) for a few more orders.

Originally Posted by Shirtmaven

all very nice. the seat of the crotch, could be cleaned up a little. why one pocket on the right? the shirt looks good. it is not too full at the waist. you could take a little out of the sleeves. collar looks good
Thanks for the compliments Mr. Goldberg! The slight fullness of the sleeves is something I'll have looked at next time. I like the "cleaner" look of a single back pocket, at the risk of it looking out of balance. I consider the single back pocket in the same way I consider one welted breast pocket on a jacket, instead of a pocket on each side. If I don't need the pocket, I thought I could do without it.

 

[Baron]

The trouser fit is nice - I never considered visiting Mr. Lim but now my curiosity is piqued. I'm looking forward to seeing some good pictures of one of his jackets.

 

[texas_jack]

nice and clean but the rise is too low for my tastes.

 

[coolal]

Originally Posted by texas_jack

nice and clean but the rise is too low for my tastes.

Originally Posted by Baron

The trouser fit is nice - I never considered visiting Mr. Lim but now my curiosity is piqued. I'm looking forward to seeing some good pictures of one of his jackets.

I've updated the post with handwork details. Should help if some of you are on the fence

 

[A Y]

Both things are very nice. Thanks for posting. How long did the trousers take to complete?

--Andre

 

[Despos]

Sorry coolal but the buttonholes, bartacks and fly are machine made/finished and the hooks are machine set. Would change the button on the back pocket. Those buttons are fine for interior use but not external use. Looks like the trouser was made in Asia. Would tell a lot to see how the inside curtain is made.

 

[coolal]

Originally Posted by Despos

Sorry coolal but the buttonholes, bartacks and fly are machine made/finished and the hooks are machine set. Would change the button on the back pocket. Those buttons are fine for interior use but not external use. Looks like the trouser was made in Asia. Would tell a lot to see how the inside curtain is made.

Thank you for the definitive word Despos. I'll look into changing the back button; most likely I'll change it and the others to natural horn.

While looking at the stitching, my first guess was machine (manually operated), but the length and tracking of each stitch is subtly different from each stitch to the next. Which is why I suspected handwork. Is this a quirk of manual machines if one goes slowly / or moves the seam side to side between stitches?

One last note, the trousers are actually made on the premises in Los Angeles. I suspected some kind of cut on site / sewn in Asia operation, but I was pleasantly surprised.

BTW, which part of the inside curtain would be most telling? I'll be sure to photograph it.

-Alex