New Bespoke Trousers from Richard Lim - Los Angeles

[JLibourel]

Coolal, did you perchance check out what kind of fabrics Lim has in-house? I know some guys use him more for CMT than anything else, but I just wonder if he has a decent assortment of fabrics and swatch books.

Did you get his prices for any other tailored garments, perchance? He used to be a helluva good bargain by all accounts and may still be for all I know. Any minor criticisms of his work should be balanced against this fact.

 

[bigchris1313]

Originally Posted by JLibourel

Did you get his prices for any other tailored garments, perchance? He used to be a helluva good bargain by all accounts and may still be for all I know. Any minor criticisms of his work should be balanced against this fact.
In the past two years, I've commissioned two odd jackets and one DB suit from Richard Lim, all in the 9.5oz to 11.5oz range using his fabrics. All are worsted. One Zegna fabric; two whose names I neglected to get because I was a relative n00b. Suit price: $1400 Odd Jackets: $900 for the first, $950 for the Zegna fabric. According to Mr. Lim, the more fabric he uses for a garment, the more it costs. He said that were I smaller, the price would be significantly lower (I'm a 52L). Frankly, though, I've never been certain of the verity of that claim. The pricing process is a bit... opaque. Having said that, his work has been outstanding. Given my difficult-to-fit shape and heretofore inability to find anything off the rack that is halfway decent, the fits are excellent, if not perfectly SF-approved. The shoulders are more padded and the armholes are lower than I would like, despite my pleading. (Of course, my extremely sloped shoulders and large arms--which make the requests very difficult--are my own fault.) EDIT: I am also in the midst of a Chan commission, a suit that came to $1650 with one basted fitting, so by May I should know whether the extra $250 and 5 months was worth it.

 

[Fishball]

The pants look great with little bit too much break as everyone said, but it is a easy fix.
I don't see "handwork" on the photos. As Despos said the buttonholes are not handsewn.
BTW, where it sewn doesn't matter. An asian tailor in States cut and sew like a pants made in Asia is understandable. They learn the craft in Asia not America or Europe.
BTW, many garments (but not all) made in Asia are better sewn than those made in USA.

 

[stu00a]

looking great!
I am thinking to get my old man a sportcoat from Richard Lim.

 

[Despos]

Originally Posted by Fishball

The pants look great with little bit too much break as everyone said, but it is a easy fix.
I don't see "handwork" on the photos. As Despos said the buttonholes are not handsewn.
BTW, where it sewn doesn't matter. An asian tailor in States cut and sew like a pants made in Asia is understandable. They learn the craft in Asia not America or Europe.
BTW, many garments (but not all) made in Asia are better sewn than those made in USA.

When mentioning they appear to be made in Asia, I don't mean it in a derogatory way. Just describing the origin of technique. Every country is somewhat identifiable from the sewing methods.

It is nice to see the front pockets laying so well for a fitted trouser.

 

[coolal]

Originally Posted by JLibourel

Coolal, did you perchance check out what kind of fabrics Lim has in-house? I know some guys use him more for CMT than anything else, but I just wonder if he has a decent assortment of fabrics and swatch books.

Did you get his prices for any other tailored garments, perchance? He used to be a helluva good bargain by all accounts and may still be for all I know. Any minor criticisms of his work should be balanced against this fact.

JLibourel, I quickly glanced at the books the first and second time I was at the shop, but it's never been a primary focus. But I do remember all the "big name mills" being there. Especially the popular Italian mills. Most people around here seem to go for the <11oz range of fabrics which unfortunately knocks out a lot English suiting books. I'm sure some are mixed in there though.

Originally Posted by Despos

When mentioning they appear to be made in Asia, I don't mean it in a derogatory way. Just describing the origin of technique. Every country is somewhat identifiable from the sewing methods.

It is nice to see the front pockets laying so well for a fitted trouser.

Despos, could you please elaborate on the Asian technique? I'm curious what sets it apart from, for example, English technique.

BTW, I'm still quite a novice at identifying machine vs hand sewn work. How does distinguish between the neat, compact, and consistent machine stitching found in the inseam VS the looser, longer, and less consistent (length and tracking) stitch found on the detail shots I posted? I now understand they are both machine made, but they certainly have a very different quality.

If one were being quite literal. Could "handwork" still apply in the context of "handworked" machine stitches (such as those in the detail shots) vs the more obvious (to me) machine work on the inseam?

There seems to be a middle ground between obvious machine stitching and hand sewn work. Fallacy of mine perhaps?

Thanks,

Alex

 

[Fishball]

Originally Posted by Despos

When mentioning they appear to be made in Asia, I don't mean it in a derogatory way. Just describing the origin of technique. Every country is somewhat identifiable from the sewing methods.

It is nice to see the front pockets laying so well for a fitted trouser.

+1

BTW, Despos, the suit Jeff posted in his blog show your great work, very very nice!

 

[JLibourel]

Originally Posted by bigchris1313

In the past two years, I've commissioned two odd jackets and one DB suit from Richard Lim, all in the 9.5oz to 11.5oz range using his fabrics. All are worsted. One Zegna fabric; two whose names I neglected to get because I was a relative n00b.

Suit price: $1400
Odd Jackets: $900 for the first, $950 for the Zegna fabric.

According to Mr. Lim, the more fabric he uses for a garment, the more it costs. He said that were I smaller, the price would be significantly lower (I'm a 52L). Frankly, though, I've never been certain of the verity of that claim. The pricing process is a bit... opaque.

Having said that, his work has been outstanding. Given my difficult-to-fit shape and heretofore inability to find anything off the rack that is halfway decent, the fits are excellent, if not perfectly SF-approved. The shoulders are more padded and the armholes are lower than I would like, despite my pleading. (Of course, my extremely sloped shoulders and large arms--which make the requests very difficult--are my own fault.)

EDIT: I am also in the midst of a Chan commission, a suit that came to $1650 with one basted fitting, so by May I should know whether the extra $250 and 5 months was worth it.

What fabric is your Chan suit from? Unless they have had a hefty price increase since last July, Chan has quite a few suitings, English and Italian, they can make a 2-piece suit from for less than $1400.

 

[coolal]

Originally Posted by JLibourel

Did you get his prices for any other tailored garments, perchance? He used to be a helluva good bargain by all accounts and may still be for all I know. Any minor criticisms of his work should be balanced against this fact.
Just got the definitive word on 2011 CMT pricing for Richard Lim. Here's how it breaks down: OVERCOAT/TOP COAT $ 650-700 SINGLE-BREASTED JACKET $ 545 DOUBLE-BREASTED JACKET/EXTRA $ 595 TUXEDO/EXTRA $ 100-150 PANTS $ 250 PANTS W/ HALF LINING/EXTRA $ 20 PANTS W/FULL LINNG/EXTRA $ 30 VEST $ 250 TIE/BOW TIES $ 75 BUTTON HOLE/EXTRA (Full Set, Hand Sewn) $ 35 IMMITATION BUTTON HOLE/EXTRA (Full Set, Hand Sewn) $ 25 PERSONAL LABEL $ 10 HAND PICKED/EXTRA $ 25 "TRY-ON"/BASTED/RAW $ 35 (The basted was always assumed and built in for my orders, haven't needed more) OVERSIZE/EXTRA(48 & UP/45 UP & TALL) 15-20% These prices are based on a 2-3 week timeline. Rush orders, all the way up to (I think) 24 hours can be accommodated for an additional charge (that varies), but I've never had to use this. There is also an up-charge for very expensive / hard to work with fabrics. But from what I can tell, you basically don't pay for the detailed preferences of other clients. I would consider these prices as a starting point. Depending on your relationship with them and the size of your orders, they may be willing to work with you on better pricing. BTW, the rule of thumb about all visible stitching being hand sewn does apply to all their jackets at the basic rate; the trousers (my mistake) do not fall under this rule.

 

[TheTukker]

I like the pants, but the placing of the straps seems off, at least accrording to this source:

"By the way, side straps should be positioned on the waistband seam, not the waistband itself. This makes them more comfortable and, if worn at the hips as I do, adds an extra inch to the rise. The waistband is amply hidden when wearing a waistcoat."

 

[Fred49]

I have just picked up 6 shirts from Freddy, he does a fantastic job!