New Bespoke Suit Fit Advice/Comments Please

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by kalare, Feb 22, 2012.

  1. kalare

    kalare Member

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    Hi all...just got my first bespoke suit done. Bought the fabric from English Fabrics on ebay and then had it done CMT for 800 bucks with one fitting. The tailor offered multiple fittings if necessary however he did not request that I return for a second fitting.

    I have uneven traps...my left trap is significantly higher than the right. As such, the tailor added some more padding to the right shoulder, however he placed it away from the trap area and directly over the shoulder. I don't think this gives the desired effect of evening out the traps. It shortens the right arm by 1/4 to 1/2 inch as can be seen in the photos. I think if we remove the extra padding the arms will even out...should I ask to have him try and add some very light padding over my right trap area as well?

    The back of the coat has some slight vertical wavyness...is this just a simple too much material thing? Can he take the back in slightly and fix this issue or is it more significant?

    I plan to go back in in the next couple of days to ask him to fix some of these items. Overall however, I'm quite pleased, though of course I don't have much to compare it too, I think I've done pretty well, especially for the price.

    Any comments on how I might make it better would be greatly appreciate. Thanks!

    In the meantime, here are the results my first fitting:
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  2. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

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  3. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    The fit is great, but I am not a fan of the sharkskin fabric
     


  4. kalare

    kalare Member

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    Thanks for the positive comments on fit. I'm still unsure if the back has too much fabric though.

    Fabric isn't sharkskin BTW. It looks strange in the photos because of the flash and the fact that it's a 30% mohair blend.
     


  5. sullivan025

    sullivan025 Senior member

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  6. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Button stance could be 2 inchs lower.

    Pants could be narrower and no break. That's just my style preferences; I do think full pants only works for tall and skinny guys and adds weight otherwise.

    And please, no dark shirt with suits; it makes you look like those bank tellers at Bank of America.
     


  7. sborg

    sborg Well-Known Member

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    I think taking the back in slightly might help a bit.
     


  8. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    I'm confused here, did your bespoke tailor refuse to make more fittings, or did they decide for you that the fit was spot on first try? :confused: If this was anything but bespoke, I would say it was fine, but since it was bespoke it better be damn near perfect...
     


  9. jamesny

    jamesny Senior member

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    Go back to your tailor and get it fixed asap.
     


  10. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not all the pictures opened for me but the suit looks good. I prefer the sleeve length on the right and would shorten the left. Trouser could have less break. You have a very low right shoulder. They didn't adjust for it enough and maybe should have sloped the shoulder a touch more. The alignment of the button and buttonhole is off on the front, have to move the button. They are very close and got a lot right for the first suit.
     


  11. kalare

    kalare Member

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    Hmm, looking at the photos it does seem perhaps the pants could be shortened just a tad, I do like a full break though. I had asked him to make them with a full break however and stop right above the heel...which he did spot on.

    The tailor didn't refuse a second fitting. He said he'd call me back if he felt he needed me. It was bespoke, he cut paper patterns and does the whole job in his tiny little store. For the price, I think it's pretty good no? One or two more suits and the fit should be spot on. I'm just trying to dial this one in so the next time I go in it'll be even better when it's done. So far everyone has only commented on the length of the pant legs, which I kinda like and am responsible for, so not too bad?

    As far as slimming/tapering the legs, I asked him for a 9" hem opening, and I got it. I do not like pants that are too tapered as I feel restricted in them. The button hole I asked for that location, right at the slimmest part of my body, maybe 1/4" below the belly button. As far as the button hole looking off, now that I look at it, it does look so in the photos. But it also looks like I'm leaning to the left in the photos, which I tend to do around 50% of the time for some reason. I'll have to try on the jacket again and make sure I'm staning naturally and straight at the same time. I fear I may have been standing awkwardly in the photos due to the 10s self timer.

    Thanks for the comments so far...btw I would not wear such a dark shirt with a dark suit out, I just grabbed it first to take some photos.
     


  12. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    For $800 I'd say that's pretty damn good. Please burn or donate the dark dress shirt.
     


  13. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Maybe he doesn't make cuffs at angle, shorter in front and longer in back. I like the top of the heal as a marker but like the front to be shorter. Not every tailor angles the cuffs.
     


  14. renman23

    renman23 Active Member

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    The suit is good.... i dont like the break of the trousers. I'd also get them tapered a bit.

    And i agree w/ an earlier poster....lose the shirt and tie... unless you're in the mafia in which case.... Tu Salud!!!
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2012


  15. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Some of the issues across the back may be due to the mohair. Mohair doesn't have much "give" and some tailors fit them looser across the back. The wrinkles you have are mainly vertical and some tailors allow this to give ease across the back. If the lines are diagonal it relates to shoulder slope. You still have the low shoulder adjustment and that is different than making an easy fitting back. Ask the tailor what his thoughts are.
     


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