New bespoke dinner jacket - now with photo of cutting process...more to come

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by R.O. Thornhill, Aug 29, 2012.

  1. R.O. Thornhill

    R.O. Thornhill Senior member

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    All,

    Am seeing Edwin DeBoise of Steed tomorrow to discuss a new dinner jacket - and would like your thoughts on configuration

    For reference, I already have a 6x4 DB black dinner jacket, which I intend to keep in rotation (in particular for more robust events)

    What I am thinking of having made is:

    Fabric: Midnight blue barathea, will ask to look at the Smith and H.Lesser books. Any strong preferences for one over the other? Have heard good things about the 10oz Smith wool/mohair blend

    Cut:
    - I am wavering between a 4X1 DB and a 1B SB - in either case it will come with generous shawl lapels
    - Jacket will have black grosgrain facings, jetted pockets, covered buttons, side vents
    - Trousers will be high-waisted, cut for braces, no back pockets

    Any suggestions?

    R-O-T
     
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2012
  2. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Fabric sounds fine, any choice you mention would be great, however I am not convinced of wool/mohair blend, don't think they are that much cooler than a plain weave all wool.

    In terms of cut, I prefer a generous shawl on one button SB, no vents, might consider gun cuff.

    Enjoy.
     
  3. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Senior member

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    generous shawl lapels make me nervous-- seems like the shawl collar turns out well in about half the cases i see it. Why not do a classic peak lapel, especially in one button midnight blue style?
     
  4. R.O. Thornhill

    R.O. Thornhill Senior member

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    Thank you for thoughts so far

    I will have a look at the plain wool as well as the wool/mohair offerings. I was attracted to the blend as it will offer a bit more crispness, which I like in evening clothes

    In terms of configuration, I am changing my mind hourly...on the one hand I like the simplicity of a 1B SB, on the other hand my favourite suits by Steed are DB...Shawl lapels to me are classic, and just a little bit different. I guess I have been brainwashed by all those pictures of Connery and the DoW

    How I arrived at these two options is:

    1) I don't want another DB peak lapel dinner jacket - so if I go DB it will definitely be a shawl
    2) If I wanted a 1B SB peak I would probably go for a tailor with a more structured style, something like a Huntsman. Maybe I am wrong about this, but I feel the softer drape cut of Steed will be better suited to a Shawl
    3) Hence, it will either be a 1B SB shawl or a 4x1 DB shawl

    Whatever I do it will have side vents. My current dinner jacket does not, and it is driving my insane

    R-O-T
     
  5. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Really? How can no vents makes you uncomfortable, it is actually the most comfortable mode for me consider I never put my hand in pocket when wearing a tux
     
  6. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Ask Mr Deboise to show you any 9-10oz all wool worsted, they are largely plain weave and should be cool enough even for tropical weather
     
  7. R.O. Thornhill

    R.O. Thornhill Senior member

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    Definitely going for a barathea / evening weak weave, not a plain suiting

    As for vents, guess we are all different. Having worn an unvented DJ for 10 years I recon I know what I prefer

    R-O-T
     
  8. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Fair enough,I am open to any education.
     
  9. R.O. Thornhill

    R.O. Thornhill Senior member

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    Just got back from seeing Edwin

    Ended up going with the 10oz Smith's midnight blue barathea in wool/mohair (the darker of the two). Edwin very bravely tried to steer me to the black Fisher option - but I guess my heart was set on midnight.

    Went with the 4x1 DB shawl configuration, with side vents, and jetted pockets. Black grosgrain facings and covered buttons. Trousers will be cut high for braces, straight side pockets, no back pockets, side braid

    Also decided to order a green W. Bill donegal odd jacket - 3-roll-2 SB, two patch pockets and a welted breast pocket.

    Fittings in three weeks or so

    R-O-T
     
  10. R.O. Thornhill

    R.O. Thornhill Senior member

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    Received this by way of update from Matthew and Edwin of Steed - my dinner jacket is being cut

    [​IMG]

    R-O-T
     
  11. forex

    forex Senior member

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    Great stuff, I look forward to seeing finished garments. I think I have the same W.Bill green donegal you are getting, what color lining did you choose for the sport coat?
     
  12. R.O. Thornhill

    R.O. Thornhill Senior member

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    Here's a bonus shot of the Donegal about to be cut

    [​IMG]

    @Forex: I never really specify linings - Edwin knows I like them fairly sedate. I trust him to pick something that won't frighten the horses

    R-O-T
     
  13. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Senior member

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    Thank you a lot for sharing!
     
  14. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    NICE ONE
     
  15. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Great stuff, ROT! Looking forward to more photos.
     

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