New Bespoke Coat

[luk-cha]

great looking suit shame you could not give us a side and rear view

 

[Jovan]

Originally Posted by Artisan Fan

???
Simply put, less firm looking coats look more relaxed, and thus better to me.

 

[LARon]

While I understand the view that a certain amount of waist suppression can tip over into either a slightly more feminine look, or a more fussy militaristic look (and isn't that an odd dichotomy-- the same look can be at once feminine and ubber macho), I think its an exceptional piece and wouldn't change a thing. In fact, I want it. Which way to the nearest Rubinacci workshop?

 

[horton]

Looks great. The sleeves seem absolutely perfectly tapered.

 

[Britalian]

Quite gorgeous. Perfect. I'm also wondering what the lining is like.

 

[Luc-Emmanuel]

This coat looks fantastic, although I would have expected something more flamboyant than tulip table and bertoia chairs from you.

!luc

 

[Vintage Gent]

Absolutely stunning, waist supression and all.

 

[texas_jack]

I vote for the side and back view as well.

Nice jacket.

 

[Mark Seitelman]

Bravo!

Encore!

 

[Sator]

Originally Posted by Jovan

Not even '60s suits nip the waist that much. There definitely is a point where you're directing attention to what you really shouldn't on a male. Simply put, yes -- it gets feminine.
Sir, I must beg to politely disagree. The '60 were characterised by an exquisite degree of waist suppression on men's coats. You can clearly this see on this coat from '66: 1866 that is

It looks perfectly masculine, elegant and elongating. Above all it flatters those of us who are a bit trimmer, when it helps to bring out a bit of shape. This tendency to cut to bring out the natural elegance of the human form was something you could still see at the turn of the century. This one comes from 1901:

Perfectly masculine. Perfectly elegant. It's a shame they started introducing these atrocious modern floppy coats a la Scholte and Armani

.

 

[Thomas]

Love the fabric, love the cut - including the waist suppression. Everything seems balanced and well-proportioned. Normally not a fan of patch pockets, but they work for this coat. Bravo!

 

[kolecho]

I love the patch pockets. I am inspired by Iammatt. My current jacket order has them. Looking forward to them

 

[kolecho]

Originally Posted by Sator

Sir, I must beg to politely disagree. The '60 were characterised by an exquisite degree of waist suppression on men's coats. You can clearly this see on this coat from '66:



1866 that is

It looks perfectly masculine, elegant and elongating. Above all it flatters those of us who are a bit trimmer, when it helps to bring out a bit of shape.

This tendency to cut to bring out the natural elegance of the human form was something you could still see at the turn of the century. This one comes from 1901:

Perfectly masculine. Perfectly elegant.

It's a shame they started introducing these atrocious modern floppy coats a la Scholte and Armani

.

The suppression looks nice here, but look at the length of the coat.

 

[luk-cha]

this froc coat looks a bit like karl largerfield!

 

[Sator]

Originally Posted by kolecho

The suppression looks nice here, but look at the length of the coat.

Do you mean it's a bit short? If so then we forget that when waist seam construction, long skirted coats were fashionable and widely worn, their lengths went up and down like a yo-yo according to fashion.

This one is from 1846 - even shorter. Waist suppression even more dramatic (though still remarkably elegant and not quite so overdone as the 1830's).



Fast forward to 1905 and they are quite long - to just below the knee.

You can see from all of these examples that the hourglass silhouette in men is quite elongating and terribly flattering.