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New Bespoke Brogues

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by pejsek, Aug 16, 2007.

  1. pejsek

    pejsek Senior member

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    New, of course, is always a relative term with me. Here's a pair of London Tan bespoke brogues I stumbled across a while back. And they really are practically like new--almost no wear on the Biltrite heel and just the lightest scratching on the soles. Without getting into those nasty and vexing problems of provenance and pedigree, these are among the nicest and most shapely bespoke shoes I've seen. Though hard to see well here, the waist is a true thing of beauty and the construction is absolutely top-notch. Perhaps the punching at Maxwell was a hair finer, but why quibble? I really like the way the toe medallion curves over the front and sides. These guys definitely have some years on them, but still manage to seem absolutely fresh. Any brave souls (resisting the urge to pun) care to take a crack at guessing the maker?
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    Wildsmith or Tuczek perhaps?
     
  3. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not a clue, especially without seeing the sole. But [​IMG] irregardless!
     
  4. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    irregardless!
    LOL[​IMG]

    Niquoine? Richomme? Richart?
     
  5. meister

    meister Senior member

    Messages:
    7,323
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    New, of course, is always a relative term with me. Here's a pair of London Tan bespoke brogues I stumbled across a while back. And they really are practically like new--almost no wear on the Biltrite heel and just the lightest scratching on the soles. Without getting into those nasty and vexing problems of provenance and pedigree, these are among the nicest and most shapely bespoke shoes I've seen. Though hard to see well here, the waist is a true thing of beauty and the construction is absolutely top-notch. Perhaps the punching at Maxwell was a hair finer, but why quibble? I really like the way the toe medallion curves over the front and sides. These guys definitely have some years on them, but still manage to seem absolutely fresh. Any brave souls (resisting the urge to pun) care to take a crack at guessing the maker?
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    They seem to have a bit of a spade sole which makes me think late 1930-1940 tops.Mmm.. Maybe Tuczek going on those ones Sevan was selling...but his were a little more "finished". Maybe one of the regular names??
     
  6. pejsek

    pejsek Senior member

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    Well, thanks for the replies. I must admit that this was a bit of a trick rumplestiltskinesque question. I doubt anyone could have ever guessed the maker. I was, however, interested in seeing what stylistic affinities people would see.
    These shoes came from a man whose clothes I have been watching cycle through the thrifts for at least the last ten years. In the 1960s he went to Chipp for several years before settling down with Henry Poole in the 1970s-90s. He must have ordered shirts by the dozen at Charvet--all in a very precise style: long collar bd with a loop on the back and a monogram on the chest. This, however, is the only pair of shoes I have ever seen with this customer's name in them.
    Here's a shot of the fabric label inside the shoe, seemingly deteriorating from sheer age:
    [​IMG]

    Sorry about the image size. I hate to throw the whole page off, but I can't seem to get it smaller. Anyway, the maker seems to be an outfit called Driver Moore located at 9 East 48th Street in New York. I can find no mention of such a cobbler on the internet and I don't recall ever seeing the name in print. Many things seem to have been at that address over the years (restaurant, psychiatric offices, comic book artist) but there's not one word about shoes. So it's a bit of a mystery, I guess. Maybe I should try asking one of the big-gun NY old-timers like Flusser or Boyer. This particular customer had a definite taste for the best, so it's hard for me to imagine that these are simply the work of a humble journeyman.
    Finally, a picture of the sole:

    [​IMG]
     
  7. AZTEC

    AZTEC Active Member

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    j & M ?


    AZTEC
     
  8. jml90

    jml90 Senior member

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    Not a clue, especially without seeing the sole. But [​IMG] irregardless!

    I beleive the word you were looking for "regardless". "But [​IMG] regardless!"
     
  9. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    don't know who makes them, but they are nicer than a lot of the commisions you see posted here.
     
  10. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    don't know who makes them, but they are nicer than a lot of the commisions you see posted here.
    ^bitter. Pejsek- Those are fantastic. I am trying to imagine where you find all of this stuff in San Francisco.
     
  11. Tarmac

    Tarmac Senior member

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    lovely sole on that one.

    btw here you go:


    [​IMG]
     
  12. satorstyle

    satorstyle Senior member

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  13. satorstyle

    satorstyle Senior member

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    Whoops I did'nt notice the New York address on the tag. I have no idea.
     
  14. satorstyle

    satorstyle Senior member

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    Here is your shoemaker:

    Oliver Moore Custom Made Shoes
    (212) 988-7360
    1194 3rd Ave,
    New York, NY 10021+5102

    He has been mentioned on AAAC.
     
  15. dkzzzz

    dkzzzz Senior member

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    _ _ V E R M O O N all I can make out. Address is in NY. Could it be the label refers to the owner?
    If not, then someone will be able to identify the maker I am sure.

    My guess would be it is certainly very small bespoke shoe maker. The shoes bare "mom&pop-shop" craftsmanship on them.
    They are a bit rough around the edges, so probably handmade to a great extend.

    If I did not know that they are from US maker, I would say they are very Austrian- looking shoes.
     
  16. satorstyle

    satorstyle Senior member

    Messages:
    689
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    Here is your shoemaker:

    Oliver Moore Custom Made Shoes
    (212) 988-7360
    1194 3rd Ave,
    New York, NY 10021+5102

    He has been mentioned on AAAC.


    This is the new address.
     
  17. Toiletduck

    Toiletduck Senior member

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    There seems to be some weird leather dying/polishing occuring
     
  18. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It's funny how I couldn't make out the name in the supersized pic but could see it clearly once it was sized down. Oliver Moore is a noted bespoke shoemaker. I never hear much about them on the forums though, and this is the first pair I've seen outside of books.
     
  19. satorstyle

    satorstyle Senior member

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    I also think he was mentioned in the Vass catalog.
     
  20. medwards

    medwards Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
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    Here is your shoemaker:

    Oliver Moore Custom Made Shoes
    (212) 988-7360
    1194 3rd Ave,
    New York, NY 10021+5102

    He has been mentioned on AAAC.


    The original Oliver Moore lived many, many years ago and subsequent generations continued the business. There is a brief -- albeit intriguing -- account of the company in the Vass book, along with a very nice image of the old premises and photo of a pair of full-brogue oxfords,
     

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