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New Allen Edmonds Quality

ld111134

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In the last few years, AE has:
Engaged in deceptive marketing sloganeering to cover up their offshoring.
How have they covered up their offshoring? I know that some of their shoes (e.g. Gucci loafer knock-offs) were made in Italy.
 

JFWR

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How have they covered up their offshoring? I know that some of their shoes (e.g. Gucci loafer knock-offs) were made in Italy.
The uppers of most of their shoes are stitched in the DR. This significantly undercuts their claims to being "MIUSA", in so much as a substantial part of their shoe is not made in the USA.

I'd say the better term would be "assembled in the US". The shoes are lasted, welted, soled, etc, in the US, etc.
 

Phileas Fogg

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You’ll notice they will say “Assembled in the USA of domestic and imported materials”.

There are actually technical definitions of Made and Assembled in the USA.

The other term to consider is “materials.” Would the uppers, though stitched together, constitute material(s) as laid out in the statute?
 

Neo1

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The uppers of most of their shoes are stitched in the DR. This significantly undercuts their claims to being "MIUSA", in so much as a substantial part of their shoe is not made in the USA.

I'd say the better term would be "assembled in the US". The shoes are lasted, welted, soled, etc, in the US, etc.
I find it interesting what you guys choose to focus on and what you choose to ignore.

AE has been doing the uppers in the DR and finishing in the US for quite some time now. As far as I'm aware - 1) Around the year of the Caleres takeover was the largest batch of cemented italian "bologna flex" ever, and 2) This was the first year I've ever seen them make anything in India/Vietnam. The Cheetah/Brisbane and now Strands, Parks etc were DR, most others Portugal, but never anything else. Those two items had me more concerned than the DR assembly.
 

ValidusLA

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It's the "Handcrafted in Port Washington" nonsense that I categorize as deceptive.
SmartSelect_20211201-175046_Chrome.jpg
Stuff like this is clearly meant to make the unsophisticated think its a MIUSA product.

I'm not even arguing MIUSA is necessarily better. Sometimes it isn't. I just don't like the charade.
 

JFWR

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I find it interesting what you guys choose to focus on and what you choose to ignore.

AE has been doing the uppers in the DR and finishing in the US for quite some time now. As far as I'm aware - 1) Around the year of the Caleres takeover was the largest batch of cemented italian "bologna flex" ever, and 2) This was the first year I've ever seen them make anything in India/Vietnam. The Cheetah/Brisbane and now Strands, Parks etc were DR, most others Portugal, but never anything else. Those two items had me more concerned than the DR assembly.
I'm not even mad that elements are made in the dr. I love Allen edmonds and still buy them, but I do find it jesuitical to label them miusa when a substantial portion is made in the dr.

Did they have some Indian production? Didn't realize.
 

ld111134

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You’ll notice they will say “Assembled in the USA of domestic and imported materials”.

There are actually technical definitions of Made and Assembled in the USA.

The other term to consider is “materials.” Would the uppers, though stitched together, constitute material(s) as laid out in the statute?
I visited the AE factory back in 2009 with a couple of other SFers, and we saw uppers being cut and assembled on the factory floor and then sewn onto soles that were machine-shaped there as well. Things must have changed since then.

Do they make Brooks Brothers shoes? Back in the day, Crockett & Jones made BB’s excellent “Peal & Co.” shoes and Alden made the main BB line, but I heard that they switched domestic production to AE. Currently, they no longer offer the Peal & Co. shoes and the shoes now bear a garish BB logo imprint.
 
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Genericuser1

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Most of the uppers are sewn in the DR. I'm sure some of that is financial but some of that is also talent. AE produces an enormous volume compared to a lot of manufacturers. They need skilled people to handle that but I get what everyone is saying the impression is that it's a USA made product.
 

Phileas Fogg

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I visited the AE factory back in 2009 with a couple of other SFers, and we saw uppers being cut and assembled on the factory floor and then sewn onto soles that were machine-shaped there as well. Things must have changed since then.

Do they make Brooks Brothers shoes? Back in the day, Crockett & Jones made BB’s excellent “Peal & Co.” shoes and Alden made the main BB line, but I heard that they switched domestic production to AE. Currently, they no longer offer the Peal & Co. shoes and the shoes now bear a garish BB logo imprint.
I believe BB has completely switched over its shoe line to a private label manufacturer and the shoes bear no relation to their previous lines. Any left over stock is probably a few years old.
 

Neo1

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I believe BB has completely switched over its shoe line to a private label manufacturer and the shoes bear no relation to their previous lines. Any left over stock is probably a few years old.
I think you're absolutely right - the mix of Alden & AE is gone as is the Peale / JFitz / C & J stuff. The few shell pairs I saw were Italian (and far inferior) and the calf was made in El Salvador and resembled what they now sell in JCrew.
 

jmc028

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I too just received a new pair of shell leeds from AE, and immediately noticed wrinkles on the upper leather even before I tried them on. It looks as though the cordovan is not bonded properly with the layer underneath, creating the wrinkle (not sure if the way I explain makes sense).

I emailed AE about them, but do you think it is worth dealing with them to return/exchange or should I keep these? I did wait a long time for them, with 15% off, and always wanted a pair of shell in this style.
 

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Polo Collar

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I too just received a new pair of shell leeds from AE, and immediately noticed wrinkles on the upper leather even before I tried them on. It looks as though the cordovan is not bonded properly with the layer underneath, creating the wrinkle (not sure if the way I explain makes sense).

I emailed AE about them, but do you think it is worth dealing with them to return/exchange or should I keep these? I did wait a long time for them, with 15% off, and always wanted a pair of shell in this style.
Just keep it, it's a minor flaw and you get it at discount price.
 

Phileas Fogg

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I too just received a new pair of shell leeds from AE, and immediately noticed wrinkles on the upper leather even before I tried them on. It looks as though the cordovan is not bonded properly with the layer underneath, creating the wrinkle (not sure if the way I explain makes sense).

I emailed AE about them, but do you think it is worth dealing with them to return/exchange or should I keep these? I did wait a long time for them, with 15% off, and always wanted a pair of shell in this style.
unacceptable. Return them. Damn the 15% discount. Just because something is on sale doesn’t mean the quality should suffer.

Return them and ask for another pair. Or just take a pass and move on. Alden makes a plain toe Blucher as does C & J.
 

jmc028

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unacceptable. Return them. Damn the 15% discount. Just because something is on sale doesn’t mean the quality should suffer.

Return them and ask for another pair. Or just take a pass and move on. Alden makes a plain toe Blucher as does C & J.
thanks - I plan to now. You’re right even discounted they are flawed 600USD shoes, and pretty unacceptable now that I think about it. Somewhat disappointed since I waited so long for them!
 

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