Neopolitan suits like Isaia

[acconrad]

I'm in the market for another suit. I have an Isaia Base S and I love it as well as a d'Avenza blazer. But I also know there are also a bunch of other great suit makers. Any others similar in fit and cut to Isaia or d'Avenza?

After doing a bunch of searching on here, the only thread I could really pull together was from back in 2008, so wondering if it's still the case that I should be looking at Cesare Attolini, Kiton, Luciano Barbera, Sartoria Castagna, Zegna Couture, Saint Gregory, and Battistoni. Any others?

 

[Eli Curt]

I'm in the market for another suit. I have an Isaia Base S and I love it as well as a d'Avenza blazer. But I also know there are also a bunch of other great suit makers. Any others similar in fit and cut to Isaia or d'Avenza?

After doing a bunch of searching on here, the only thread I could really pull together was from back in 2008, so wondering if it's still the case that I should be looking at Cesare Attolini, Kiton, Luciano Barbera, Sartoria Castagna, Zegna Couture, Saint Gregory, and Battistoni. Any others?

Attolini & Kiton are both great bets. If you want style that's a bit more wild, consider their Cipa & Stile Latino lines.

There are some Barbera lines that are made by Attolini - these are great finds.

Battistoni is made by Castangia and is generally more Roman, but Castangia is incredible quality and their house style is a bit "chameleon". I have a sport coat from them that is a real mix between southern & northern Italy. Completely deconstructed, 3r2, handsome curved patch pockets, copious shoulder expression but also a bit on the longer side and not too tight - I really love it.

You might also look at a few Rubinacci or I Sarti Italiani offerings.

 

[acconrad]

Attolini & Kiton are both great bets. If you want style that's a bit more wild, consider their Cipa & Stile Latino lines.

There are some Barbera lines that are made by Attolini - these are great finds.

Battistoni is made by Castangia and is generally more Roman, but Castangia is incredible quality and their house style is a bit "chameleon". I have a sport coat from them that is a real mix between southern & northern Italy. Completely deconstructed, 3r2, handsome curved patch pockets, copious shoulder expression but also a bit on the longer side and not too tight - I really love it.

You might also look at a few Rubinacci or I Sarti Italiani offerings.

Excellent points, thank you. I'm not looking for something wild - I'd prefer a staple I could wear forever. One of the reasons I like Isaia is because of the soft drape, next-to-no shoulder padding, and the shorter jacket length. I have a long torso and short legs, so I need a shorter jacket to balance out my proportions. I've also heard Kiton jackets run long as well, is that true? If that's the case I'd probably knock Kiton and Battistoni off of the list.

Can you explain what you mean by "chameleon" and shoulder expression? Like a roped shoulder? I have large traps and shoulders so any sort of roping or padding is going to look comical on me (I've worn St Andrews Purple Label and RLBL and I look very weird in them).

 

[Eli Curt]

Excellent points, thank you. This helps me narrow down... so to help, one of the reasons I like Isaia is because of the next-to-no shoulder padding and the shorter jackets. I have a long torso and short legs, so I need a shorter jacket to balance out my proportions. I've also heard Kiton jackets run long as well, is that true? If that's the case I'd probably knock Kiton and Battistoni off of the list.

Can you explain what you mean by "chameleon" and shoulder expression? Like a roped shoulder? I have large traps and shoulders so any sort of roping or padding is going to look comical on me (I've worn St Andrews Purple Label and RLBL and I look very weird in them).

If you have a longer torso, why would you want a shorter jacket?

Can you post a picture in your best fitting isaia suit so I can see what you mean please?

 

[Ebitdaddy]

That sheet you linked is pretty old IIRC, just a heads up. I would love see someone with a a lot of experience like @dieworkwear or @SpooPoker put something like it together.

 

[acconrad]

If you have a longer torso, why would you want a shorter jacket?

Can you post a picture in your best fitting isaia suit so I can see what you mean please?

I'll have to dig up a photo somewhere (or try it on tomorrow) but essentially I go with a high rise pant and a shorter jacket to try and shorten my torso and lengthen my legs.

 

[acconrad]

That sheet you linked is pretty old IIRC, just a heads up. I would love see someone with a a lot of experience like @dieworkwear or @SpooPoker put something like it together.

And yet, as of February, it is still heavily referenced.

 

[dieworkwear]

That sheet you linked is pretty old IIRC, just a heads up. I would love see someone with a a lot of experience like @dieworkwear or @SpooPoker put something like it together.

Unfortunately, I haven't paid attention to what's on the market in a while.

There's a guy named Adriano Dirnelli who both contributes to the menswear site Parisian Gentleman and runs his own blog. You can find him on Tumblr and Instagram. He may know. I think he has a lot of experience with various high-end RTW brands.

 

[compuccesory]

Excellent points, thank you. I'm not looking for something wild - I'd prefer a staple I could wear forever. One of the reasons I like Isaia is because of the soft drape, next-to-no shoulder padding, and the shorter jacket length. I have a long torso and short legs, so I need a shorter jacket to balance out my proportions. I've also heard Kiton jackets run long as well, is that true? If that's the case I'd probably knock Kiton and Battistoni off of the list.

Can you explain what you mean by "chameleon" and shoulder expression? Like a roped shoulder? I have large traps and shoulders so any sort of roping or padding is going to look comical on me (I've worn St Andrews Purple Label and RLBL and I look very weird in them).

You and I have similar proportions. I don't think Kiton is "long" so much as it's just conventional lengths and therefore "long" on your body. Tom Ford would be an example of a maker that actually does run long.

AS for other Neapolitan styled suit makers, there's also old Eidos, and Suitsupply's Jort is also pretty much in the same style. On your list, Castangia fits me quite well although it's a little bit more padded than Isaia. I dunno about Zegna Coulture but I have never found an E Zegna shoulder that fits me and they are definitely not Neapolitan.

 

[papado]

Orazio Luciano would be another good option. Though I will say that if you really like your Isaia then I would suggest you just stick with them. This is coming from someone who likes them and now has (if I remember correctly...) 3 suits and 9 sport coats...

 

[acconrad]

Orazio Luciano would be another good option. Though I will say that if you really like your Isaia then I would suggest you just stick with them. This is coming from someone who likes them and now has (if I remember correctly...) 3 suits and 9 sport coats...

Do they also go by La Vera Sartoria Napoletana? I saw their post on Permanent Style and they rank highly on that hierarchy list (I think I have them as a consideration as well)

 

[jonathanS]

If you like Isaia, stick with Isaia. I always found Isaia's proportions off. I found Kiton & Orazio had better proportions. I have a jacket from sciamat, which isn't exactly neapolitan, but it definitely derives its inspiration from Napoli. I found their proportions were better than Isaia, as well. I got rid of my rtw Isaia stuff.

 

[comrade]

Try Belvest. Quality garments. I have a couple that are quite Neapolitan classical.
Not short and slim. The problem with Belvest is that they manufacture for many labels/retailers
and consequently styles vary a great deal. Mine are not current, in one case over ten years old.

 

[Eli Curt]

Try Belvest. Quality garments. I have a couple that are quite Neapolitan classical.
Not short and slim. The problem with Belvest is that they manufacture for many labels/retailers
and consequently styles vary a great deal. Mine are not current, in one case over ten years old.

Sounds similar to the Castangia M.O. I've come across.

 

[acconrad]

Try Belvest. Quality garments. I have a couple that are quite Neapolitan classical.
Not short and slim. The problem with Belvest is that they manufacture for many labels/retailers
and consequently styles vary a great deal. Mine are not current, in one case over ten years old.

Are you referring to in-house Belvest? I've heard good things about them as well, but heard, when compared Isaia, is not as good of a value but they're in the same tier