Neopolitan or Continental tailoring for a business suit?

[tayyabp]

I'm looking to get a charcoal business suit for job interviews and business formal situations.

Would it be out of place to get it in a Neopolitan style with spalla camicia un-padded shoulders and 4'' Neopolitan style lapels, or would a continental style with 3'' or 3.5'' lapels, and lightly padded shoulders be a better idea?

An example of Neopolitan style:


And an example of continental style:

 

[Phileas Fogg]

Whichever one complements your body type.

I don’t think either are out of place. As long as the fit is right and there aren’t a bunch of bells and whistles you should be fine.

 

[tayyabp]

Whichever one complements your body type.

I don’t think either are out of place. As long as the fit is right and there aren’t a bunch of bells and whistles you should be fine.

hmm ok

 

[Spaghettimatt]

I work in about as conservative an environment as still exists and nobody would notice the difference between a Neapolitan style unstructured jacket and a more structured English garment. If you’re just wearing a matching jacket and trousers that fit decently, you are already well above the bar.

I second @Phileas Fogg ’s advice. Wear what you think looks good on you and—just as important—what makes you feel good.

 

[Eli Curt]

You could always go for a slightly more elevated version of a very neapolitan suit - i.e. Liverano and such.

There's nothing wrong with full neapolitan, but nowadays, that's a pretty informal suit. Notice how the one Simon's wearing has patch pockets. I would vote flap pockets if it's for business meetings and such.

 

[tayyabp]

You could always go for a slightly more elevated version of a very neapolitan suit - i.e. Liverano and such.

There's nothing wrong with full neapolitan, but nowadays, that's a pretty informal suit. Notice how the one Simon's wearing has patch pockets. I would vote flap pockets if it's for business meetings and such.

yeah thanks for the advice. i personally really love the Neopolitan styling and think it works with my broad shoulders quite well. but i think i need a more formal suit for business use with clients and so on.

 

[Eli Curt]

yeah thanks for the advice. i personally really love the Neopolitan styling and think it works with my broad shoulders quite well. but i think i need a more formal suit for business use with clients and so on.

There are definitely versions that are a bit more conservative, yet still quite neapolitan.

Liverano, Isaia (Base S), kiton and Partenopea come to mind. You can opt for some soft structuring and patch pockets while still nailing the rest of the look. Just keep in mind that many trye-neapolutan makers sell suits that are shorter (less business-y, more casual) and with smaller shoulders (you mentioned broad shoulders - like I have).

 

[tayyabp]

There are definitely versions that are a bit more conservative, yet still quite neapolitan.

Liverano, Isaia (Base S), kiton and Partenopea come to mind. You can opt for some soft structuring and patch pockets while still nailing the rest of the look. Just keep in mind that many trye-neapolutan makers sell suits that are shorter (less business-y, more casual) and with smaller shoulders (you mentioned broad shoulders - like I have).

yeah I'm looking particularly at Patenopea for the neopolitan style business suit I have in mind, and looking at Pal Zileri Sartoriale for the continental style

 

[dieworkwear]

Some guys have very square shoulders, and they look better with an unpadded shoulder. Some guys have very sloped shoulders, and while an unpadded shoulder can look more casual, it sometimes doesn't look right on a business suit.

I personally wouldn't get spalla camicia on a business suit.

That said, most people will just see this as a suit, so you should get what you like. If it were me, I would choose the padding that looks best on you while still maintaining the kind of formal silhouette a business suit requires. I would also go without a spalla camicia because it feels a bit faddish in a business setting.

 

[tayyabp]

Some guys have very square shoulders, and they look better with an unpadded shoulder. Some guys have very sloped shoulders, and while an unpadded shoulder can look more casual, it sometimes doesn't look right on a business suit.

I personally wouldn't get spalla camicia on a business suit.

That said, most people will just see this as a suit, so you should get what you like. If it were me, I would choose the padding that looks best on you while still maintaining the kind of formal silhouette a business suit requires. I would also go without a spalla camicia because it feels a bit faddish in a business setting.

yeah thats the impression im getting as well. even though i love spalla camicia...feel it might be a bit informal for a business suit

 

[Eli Curt]

yeah I'm looking particularly at Patenopea for the neopolitan style business suit I have in mind, and looking at Pal Zileri Sartoriale for the continental style

I agree with dieworkwear. SP (& Kiton) are more conservative as far as Neapolitan makers go and their mainline offerings tend to avoid trends & fads like complete unstructuring and heavy shirring.

I'd look at those first.

Charcoal is a good bet. If you wear a 40, there's a great option on the Buy/sells I've been eyeing but don't really have a need for.

 

[tayyabp]

I agree with dieworkwear. SP (& Kiton) are more conservative as far as Neapolitan makers go and their mainline offerings tend to avoid trends & fads like complete unstructuring and heavy shirring.

I'd look at those first.

Charcoal is a good bet. If you wear a 40, there's a great option on the Buy/sells I've been eyeing but don't really have a need for.

I'm a 42, but I'll check them out anyways since 40 sometimes fits me

 

[Bromley]

I think your best bet would to be identify a tailor or two whose work you like, and whose work you think would look good on you (rather than weighing broad regional styles). That said, check out some Milanese tailors. I feel like Caraceni and Dembech have a really nice style that's not English, and not Neapolitan. That's where I'd be looking for a business-oriented suit, anyway.

 

[dieworkwear]

Get a suit that has a padded shoulder and normal sleevehead on one side, and then unpadded shoulder with spalla camicia on the other. Then slyly angle yourself in business meetings depending on how you want to portray yourself.

 

[Bromley]

And maybe 1.5 breasted