Need suggestions for new suits by two MTM companies

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by hirschlederne, Jan 8, 2012.

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  1. hirschlederne

    hirschlederne Senior member

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    Hi all

    I first posted this in The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions but unfortunately, no answers so far. (If you think I should wait some more, let me know and I'll delete this thread.)

    I have two suits made by different MTM outfits and want to order new suits and I'm looking for suggestions what could be improved.

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    Sleeve length has already been changed twice in the past ;)

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    Thank you for your input. Oh, and sorry for the absence of shoes, tie and the odd colour of my head.
     


  2. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Clearly you are a novice. Get fitted for shoes, one cannot asses the trousers with bare feet. Did you remove your shoes when measured and when trying the thing on?
     


  3. cioni2k

    cioni2k Senior member

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    You need to be wearing shoes for a proper assessment, however a quick glance IMO shows suit #1 needs a longer jacket (its way too short for my liking). Suit #2 needs a longer jacket as well, but it seems like that's the look you are going for. Both suits need smaller/shorter shoulders, and something weird is going on with suit #1 in the chest / near your pits. I think overall #2 looks MUCH better, but I dislike the buttoning on it, it seems too high and awkward. I think the shoulder padding on both is much too extreme, looks .... cheap or poorly made. In regards to pants, I think they look very good overall, but I cant tell about the length since you aren't wearing any shoes. What MTM companies did you use for each?
     
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2012


  4. Benjamin E.

    Benjamin E. Well-Known Member

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    In addition to what cioni2k said, the sleeve pitch looks to be off, the left sleeves look to be a tad short, and the lapels of the brown suit are gaping a bit. Jackets need to be longer.
     


  5. hirschlederne

    hirschlederne Senior member

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    Agree with #1 being a bit too short. I think the length of #2 is good. I really have very long legs so at least it's honest.
    I also think the 2 buttons on #2 don't work.
    Companies were Mangas München for #1 and Fiero Salzburg for #2.
    Yes, I'll try to take care of the sleeves again. What should I do about the lapels of #2? Would moving the button down help?
    Thanks for the feedback, appreciate it.
     


  6. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Where do you live? What is your budget?
     


  7. hirschlederne

    hirschlederne Senior member

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    Somewhere between München and Salzburg. Budget might be 1 K or so. Any recommendations for Germany?
     


  8. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    sorry about missing you.
    there are some good suggestions here by the members.
    yes to balance out the long legs the brown jacket could be a little longer. and the black more than the brown.
    are the legs on the brown narrower? they seem to stick on your calfs.
    the brown is either tight across the chest or the front shoulder angle is too crooked. your tailor needs to check that.
     


  9. hirschlederne

    hirschlederne Senior member

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    Yes, the legs on the brown suit are a bit narrower, 20 cm across vs. 22 cm for the blue suit. I found the legs to flap around a bit with the blue suit.
    Would you say I should go with a 3 button suit?
     


  10. Benjamin E.

    Benjamin E. Well-Known Member

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    As far as I know, lapel gaping can't be fixed. It's usually solved in the patternmaking stage by placing a dart behind the lapel. If there is a way to solve it on a finished garment, I'd like to know as I have a suit with the same issue.
    Moving the button would throw things off in terms of balance.
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2012


  11. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

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    I dunno if its just me but i think if they make the jacket longer it might look a bit off in relation to the length of the pants. If you are going by him being able to cup the bottom of the jacket with his palms then maybe he just has really long arms.
     


  12. hirschlederne

    hirschlederne Senior member

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    I don't know if my arms are too long but I'm thin and I have really long legs. [​IMG]

    I'm trying to come up with a list of things I want to change compared to the first suit. What I have is

    • Slightly narrower shoulders and maybe a bit smaller around the chest?
    • Better sleeve length.
    • Longer jacket.

    Any other suggestions? I might visit them next week.
     


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