Need some help with the fit of my suits please. (New suits on page 2 post #25)

[macintosh85]

I want to thank everyone for all the information I've gotten from this forum over the last few months. I recently wanted to improve my wardrobe and I've found this forum to be a great help. My problem though is with the fit of my jackets around my chest and neck. When I went out and bought some suits I bought 40R because I thought they fit well. Then I started to notice how the lapels pulled
away from my chest. This suit is a 40R HSM Gold Trumpeter. I like the way it fits everywhere but the chest, but I would like opinions.




So thinking that it's too small around the chest I went and bought this blue Gold Trumpeter but this time in a 42R. My chest measurement by the way is 44in. Now it still doesn't seem to fit in the chest and neck but its big everywhere else. The sleeves also seem to long.



So what do you think? How bad is the fit in the chest? I don't really like it but any critiques are appreciated. What can I do to make it fit better? Is there any way to alter these suits so that the lapels lay flat? Thanks for any help.

 

[add911_11]

Hello

I like the way you managed to put a PS in your pocket but not tucking your shirt, by tucking it members would be able to tell whether the length is right

Personally I don't think both suit jacket fits well, the first one is too big in the shoulder, and both of them seems to be too tight on the chest

I think you will benefit from a standard fit suit, both of them seems too slim fit for you, hence the problems.

I reckon you have pretty board shoulder, so the suits you got are pulling badly with the default shoulder padding.

A good solution wil be a cheap MTM? Is it possible?

Hope this helps

 

[dks202]

The 42r looks better but it still opens too much below the buttons. It should hang straight. Sleeve length looks perfect, when you move your shirt will show.

 

[Aldehyde]

Both are tight in the chest. Unfortunately if a 44R is too big in the shoulder for you, then MTM is your future.

 

[macintosh85]

Ok. Thanks for the responses. I guess I'll try a 44R. Is there anything a tailor could do to alter the jackets in the picture? Could a tailor let something out so they fit better especially in the chest?

 

[macintosh85]

bump

 

[Bowtiedlad93]

I think it looks like a great fit especialy in the sleeves.

 

[CharlesAlexander]

It would help if you wore the whole suit, seeing the shirt untucked throws it off.

 

[macintosh85]

I think it looks like a great fit especialy in the sleeves.

Which one do you think looks good? Because the bulge in the chest really bothers me.


As far as trying on the whole suit, I'll take some more pics and post them.

 

[Gdot]

I think you should consider jackets with a lower buttoning point. They would be more flattering.

But I guess we should wait for the new pics - as they might show us a totally different proportion when everything is in place.

 

[macintosh85]

I think you should consider jackets with a lower buttoning point. They would be more flattering.

But I guess we should wait for the new pics - as they might show us a totally different proportion when everything is in place.

What do you mean by a lower buttoning point? Sorry if thats a stupid question.

 

[Gdot]



What do you mean by a lower buttoning point? Sorry if thats a stupid question.

As my father used to say "The only stupid question is the one you've asked for the third time." So......no it's not a stupid question at all. What that means is that if the top button on the jacket is lower on your body it will be more flattering to your build. As it will expose a longer, leaner triangle of contrasting shirt and thus will lengthen the proportion of your torso a bit more. The two jackets that you have tried on have top buttons that are fairly high - this results in a smaller triangle of shirt which is more widely proportioned and lapel shapes that are shorter and wider as well. This is most likely not the very best shape for you. You have a sort of build that can do well with a lower button stance. As you learn more about suits you will find that these things matter a great deal - just choosing a suit with a button stance of an inch lower or higher can make a big difference in the overall proportions. Let's see those suits with the trousers etc. etc. and then it will be easier to tell.

 

[macintosh85]

Alright so here we go with some more pics. I kept the outfit the same for consistency.








So what do you think?

 

[Jay Gatsby]

Extremely too small in the waist.

 

[Gdot]



Alright so here we go with some more pics. I kept the outfit the same for consistency.








So what do you think?

Much better in these pics. I do think in future purchases you should consider a lower button stance as I previously mentioned - but all in all this looks pretty good. You might be able to remove a bit of that pulling away at the chest by having the side seam let out a bit from arm pit to waist. A couple of tailoring nits: sleeve length too long one side only, trousers not draping so well in from the seat to the back of your knee (tailor can adjust this mostly by adjusting length (shortening) but also via adjusments in the seat seam. Amazing what better photos can do.