Need opinions on fit of Geneva shirts

[caphill]

I recently purchased some Geneva shirts through my local tailor. The plan was to send one of them to Jantzen as a pattern for additional shirts. But before I do, I thought I'd get opinions on things I could do to improve the fit.

To be fair to my tailor, I lost about 10 pounds between measurement and the shirts arriving (because of the holidays, it took a couple of months to get them). I think the chest fits pretty good, but I think the waist could be tapered more. What do you all think?

[Note: You will see two different shirts here. One is a french cuff dress shirt. The second is a shirt that I had intentionally cut a little shorter so that I could wear it untucked, if I wanted. This is the one you see in the untucked pics. The shirts are cut the same, except for the length.

 

[penguin vic]

Looks pretty good. Waist could be slimmer I guess but looks fine to me. Sleeves look a bit roomy. Would you wear a french cuff shirt untucked?

 

[Tomasso]

I like the collar on the dress shirt. The fit is OK, though could use some tweaking here and there (you might consider darts to clean up the back). Still, perfectly wearable. BTW, it's ALL about the collar.

Unfortunately, I find myself woefully unequipped to comment on the other shirt. That style just ain't me.

 

[Cornellian]

Originally Posted by caphill

I recently purchased some Geneva shirts through my local tailor. The plan was to send one of them to Jantzen as a pattern for additional shirts. But before I do, I thought I'd get opinions on things I could do to improve the fit.

To be fair to my tailor, I lost about 10 pounds between measurement and the shirts arriving (because of the holidays, it took a couple of months to get them). I think the chest fits pretty good, but I think the waist could be tapered more. What do you all think?

[Note: You will see two different shirts here. One is a french cuff dress shirt. The second is a shirt that I had intentionally cut a little shorter so that I could wear it untucked, if I wanted. This is the one you see in the untucked pics. The shirts are cut the same, except for the length.

So... Why would you take your business elsewhere when your tailor/Geneva did all the work to get the fitting? And don't say it's cheaper. In that case, you should have had Jantzen make the pattern. I'm willing to bet that the profit for your tailor comes with future orders, not a single one.

 

[Azure]

The collar is great, but it is not pro to have those wriknles on the armpit.

The second shirt seems better.

 

[penguin vic]

Originally Posted by Cornellian

So... Why would you take your business elsewhere when your tailor/Geneva did all the work to get the fitting? And don't say it's cheaper. In that case, you should have had Jantzen make the pattern. I'm willing to bet that the profit for your tailor comes with future orders, not a single one.

WTF are you serious???

 

[teddieriley]

Originally Posted by penguin vic

WTF are you serious???

I'm sure he is. Many people value the relationship someone has with a shirtmaker, and the time and effort it takes in getting the pattern right. Some would consider it a dick move to work with someone with such skill only to high tail it out and "outsource" the job to save a few bucks. I personally wouldn't do it unless I had problems working with the first maker and just didn't like them enough to give him my business. Otherwise, you're taking advantage, and not a class act IMO.

 

[Cornellian]

Originally Posted by penguin vic

WTF are you serious???

Originally Posted by teddieriley

I'm sure he is. Many people value the relationship someone has with a shirtmaker, and the time and effort it takes in getting the pattern right. Some would consider it a dick move to work with someone with such skill only to high tail it out and "outsource" the job to save a few bucks. I personally wouldn't do it unless I had problems working with the first maker and just didn't like them enough to give him my business. Otherwise, you're taking advantage, and not a class act IMO.

As Teddieriley noted, I am serious. And as Teddie aptly put it, I think this is a dick move.

 

[knittieguy]

Originally Posted by Cornellian

So... Why would you take your business elsewhere when your tailor/Geneva did all the work to get the fitting? And don't say it's cheaper. In that case, you should have had Jantzen make the pattern. I'm willing to bet that the profit for your tailor comes with future orders, not a single one.

Let's see ... $250-300 per shirt vs. $50. I'm sure he would have had Jantzen make the pattern if Jantzen were not physically located in Hong Kong, but I don't see anything unethical about paying a US tailor $250 to make a pattern and then using that pattern to buy shirts elsewhere. Geneva accepts that risk in not requiring a minimum order, but must figure that its personal service and quality will attract more long term customers than it loses that way. From what I understand, Geneva shirts are superior to Jantzen, and the service has to be more reliable.

 

[Cornellian]

Originally Posted by knittieguy

Let's see ... $250-300 per shirt vs. $50. I'm sure he would have had Jantzen make the pattern if Jantzen were not physically located in Hong Kong, but I don't see anything unethical about paying a US tailor $250 to make a pattern and then using that pattern to buy shirts elsewhere. Geneva accepts that risk in not requiring a minimum order, but must figure that its personal service and quality will attract more long term customers than it loses that way. From what I understand, Geneva shirts are superior to Jantzen, and the service has to be more reliable.

Sure, $50 is cheaper, and, as you say, people are free to do what they wish. I don't agree with your reasoning however. I think such a model perpetuates a race to the bottom line. Who needs service when you've got price?!

 

[caphill]

Well, I ordered 3 shirts at $250 per. Unfortunately, I need more shirts but don't have the kind of cash to pay that for each...especially since I just lost my job. I guess I understand the general point that people are making, but I don't really have much of a choice on my current budget.

For those that commented on the collar, what exactly is it that you like about it so much? I don't disagree, just trying to learn what makes a great collar.

 

[bullethead]

I understand if financial reasons force you to go with a cheaper source. However, I would put in an order with Jantzen and make them get it right.

 

[stickonatree]

the shoulders and chest look mighty clean.

the back tapering is great as well.

arms look a tad airy, but that's perfect for wearing under a suit without your cuffs getting pulled up.

great job overall!

 

[Shirtmaven]

I have no plan to comment on the fit of this shirt.
But..
As an experiment. I made three shirts for the fellow who I hired through this site.
One was made in house
one was made in the factory in NJ.
and one was made by jantzen.

the same measurements were supplied on all three cases.

You will not be happy with the jantzen shirt. they got the mesurements right, but the lining inside the collars and cuffs was not up to the standards of the other two shirts.

the genvea shirt uses an excellent non-fused lining. the jantzen collar and cuff will be stiff and boardy in comparison.

Carl

 

[zjpj83]

The idea of getting a "perfect" shirt from an expensive tailor and then sending it for copy to a cheaper tailor has been beaten to death on this site. Some have no issue with it, some do. No need to re-argue it all over again.