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Need help with bespoke fitting (pants and jacket)

daveinmiami

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So I ordered some bespoke pants from a tailor in Miami who did a solid job on a blazer I purchased about a year ago. We're having some difficulties with the pants, though. We are still in the fitting process but seem to have hit a snag after a couple of fittings because there's a lot of creasing in the back of the pants (see attached photo) and so far they haven't been able to figure out the cause. I don't know anything about tailoring but from browsing this forum and reviewing this thread (https://www.styleforum.net/threads/on-pants.177616/) it seems to me that some of the creasing might be in the nature of "horseshoe folds" (although the creasing on my pants is lower down on the leg rather than towards the seat). And from reading that thread and others, it seems that the problem may be due to the tailor not accounting for my very straight posture in cutting the fabric, and that the pants need to be longer in the front and shorter in the back in order to correct for my posture. If anybody knows about these sort of problems and how to fix them, I'd appreciate some advice so I can pass it along to the tailor.

I'm also hoping for some advice about a jacket that this tailor didn't make, but is trying to salvage (a "made-to-measure" tailor made it about a year ago). The double vent sticks out very noticeably, extending outward both to the sides and the back (see attached). It looks awful and the new tailor has tried several fixes (including partly sewing the vent shut, as reflected in these pictures) with no luck. Have any of you confronted this problem in the past? If you have any idea what the problem and solution might be, I'd be grateful for your thoughts. Thanks!
 

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ter1413

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These are not serious questions.....are they?
 

Anachronist

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At least the slacks appear to be too tight around the hips and derrière which could be part of the problem because this causes the fabric to be pulled in under the buttocks and not drape properly
 

Ben W

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Where is the waistband currently sitting on you? At the navel, or below? Hard to tell from your photos. If it is lower than your navel I'd suggest having it brought up. You also have another issue: the pockets on the pants jutting out, instead of laying flat. There is a lot going on here. Not being a tailor I have trouble pinpointing the fixes, but I think generally raising the waistband and letting out the crotch may help some.
 

daveinmiami

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Thanks, guys. The waistband is just barely below the navel (i.e., where I normally wear it) in the pictures. You're right that the pants were too tight in the butt area so the tailor is going to let that out somewhat and we'll see how much that helps. I'm still thinking the fabric may have been cut for more of a slouched posture but will report back if letting out the seat area doesn't help. In the meantime, would welcome any other thoughts people might have. Thanks!
 

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