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Need feedback on sportcoat fit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by JohnMS, Mar 15, 2005.

  1. JohnMS

    JohnMS Senior member

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    Feb 20, 2004
    I typically buy clothing off the rack, but recently had a sportcoat MTM. The armholes seem to be cut differently than anything I wear in that they feel like they are higher than what I've had before, which gives me somewhat the feeling of the sportcoat being too small. However, the shoulders, waist, etc show no pulling and the jacket actually seems to make me look 10 lbs lighter.

    Are those of us used to off-the-rack jackets used to sloppy fit therefore does some MTM or even bespoke feel differently at first?

    I'm trying to assess how I know when a jacket does not fit properly due to how high the armholes hit under my arms.

    Thanks for any feedback.

  2. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    Mar 3, 2004
    My two MTM Chan suits don't have particularly high armholes (they are high, but not "ultra high" like I'm sure a lot of bespoke is like), so I don't know exactly how high some of these MTM tend to go.

    However, I do know that when I first tried on a very high end suit (an Oxxford with particularly small armholes), it did feel "different." But it shouldn't feel uncomfortable to the extent that it irritates your armpit. If the armhole feels like it's cutting into you, it is too high. If it just feels "different" and "weird" at first, that is probably normal.

  3. amirrorcrackd

    amirrorcrackd Senior member

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    Oct 27, 2004
    NY, NY
    You basically want the armhole to be as high as possible without it being uncomfortable. You'll get used to it. A high armhole will make a jacket retain its shape better, and it just looks nicer.


  4. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Oct 6, 2004
    Here's one test:

    Tie your shoes, then hold your arms out horizontally (jumping-jack formation), then reach for the butter. If the body of your jacket stays put through the whole procedure AND your collar doesn't get mussed in any way, then your armholes are high enough. They almost never are on RTW clothing.

    Biggest shock when sampling Savile Row for the first time was the realization that high armholes = more freedom of movement. It's hard to go back.

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