Need advice on 3 MTM sport coats

[Stylewords]

They look pretty good now - a lot better than before. If you have 1.7 inches to the hem on the sleeve you can easily shorten them by half an inch.

 

[Ben W]

Some subjective thoughts based on most recent pictures:

Pros:

• The lapels are sufficiently wide, which can be difficult to find based on current trends
• Overall fit seems pretty good. No noticeable wrinkling or pulling when standing in a neutral position.

Cons, and these are all slight imo:

• The buttoning point looks high [current fashion]
• The overall length of the jacket looks short (doesn't fully cover the seat) [current fashion]
• The lower pockets look too high/tall

Depending on what your total investment here is I don't think I'd be dissatisfied. The more you work with the tailor on further projects the more things will improve for future garments.

 

[dieworkwear]

IMO, the problem is the silhouette. See here.

The original coats are on the left; the adjusted coats on the right. I've lightened the photos on the right to help show the silhouette better.

If you look at the coats on the left, they have a natural V-shaped figure, as you'd want on a coat. However, this pattern doesn't fit the OP very well. The biggest issue is the collar gap.

The OP took the coats to a tailor. It looks like the tailor "fixed" the collar gap by bringing in the shoulders. The result is basically just squeezing the top half of the coat.

While this fixes the collar gap, the silhouette is screwed up as a result. Instead of getting a V-shaped figure, you now have an unflattering / \ figure. This is most pronounced on the blue jacket. The proportions between the chest and skirt are unbalanced. The skirt almost looks like it's flared out.

When buying a jacket, be careful about buying something where you have to do major operations to the chest and shoulders. Not only is it expensive, but it may not turn out that well. Easier to do things like nipping the waist, fixing a roll between the back blades, shortening the sleeves, etc.

 

[bicycleradical]

The sleeves are a hair long. To be honest, I think a different silhouette would be better for you.

I agree with this opinion. The silhouette given by this jacket is not the best. Looking at the shoulders, they look narrower than the skirt. This doesn't project the silhouette of strong shoulders relative to the rest of your body.

The jacket fits you well. It just does not give you the V or X shape that would probably suit you best with your physique.

 

[alghul]

IMO, the problem is the silhouette. See here.


View attachment 1701386 View attachment 1701387



The original coats are on the left; the adjusted coats on the right. I've lightened the photos on the right to help show the silhouette better.

If you look at the coats on the left, they have a natural V-shaped figure, as you'd want on a coat. However, this pattern doesn't fit the OP very well. The biggest issue is the collar gap.

The OP took the coats to a tailor. It looks like the tailor "fixed" the collar gap by bringing in the shoulders. The result is basically just squeezing the top half of the coat.

While this fixes the collar gap, the silhouette is screwed up as a result. Instead of getting a V-shaped figure, you now have an unflattering / \ figure. This is most pronounced on the blue jacket. The proportions between the chest and skirt are unbalanced. The skirt almost looks like it's flared out.

When buying a jacket, be careful about buying something where you have to do major operations to the chest and shoulders. Not only is it expensive, but it may not turn out that well. Easier to do things like nipping the waist, fixing a roll between the back blades, shortening the sleeves, etc.

I understand much better now. Seeing them side by side, the difference is obvious. That's a disappointment. Better now than later though. I now know what to look for a bit better.

In any case, thanks again for the advice. Not what I wanted to hear but the one I obviously needed. I will make sure you to ping you every time I need advice.

Not easy to get the perfect fit that's for sure.

 

[dieworkwear]

I understand much better now. Seeing them side by side, the difference is obvious. That's a disappointment. Better now than later though. I now know what to look for a bit better.

In any case, thanks again for the advice. Not what I wanted to hear but the one I obviously needed. I will make sure you to ping you every time I need advice.

Not easy to get the perfect fit that's for sure.

If you can increase your budget, try Spier & Mackay or The Armoury's Model 3. Many members here have good luck with those two models. They sell suits and sport coats.

While you're there purchasing, pick up a pair of trousers. It will help you see whether the jackets' silhouette works for you. Hard to tell if you don't have the right pants for the jacket.