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Need advice for my first bespoke suit.

Phileas Fogg

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This is my first suit. I wish to wear this suit for some formal events or business meeting in the future. And I sometimes may use it for party. I am 184cm and weight 90kg so I am not slim.
I think this suit will be for work but I won't wear it everyday. I think I will wear it only when it comes important events, important meetings or situations like giving a speech or dinner. I prefer dark colour like black or navy blue and I like Peak Lapel.
look, you came here looking for a specific answer to a specific question, I get it. But it sounds like you and your parents stand on the precipice of flushing $18k down the shitter.

Black is the least versatile option. Fit for funerals and black with peak lapels makes no sense.

Navy is a more versatile color. You’re only going to wear this occasionally, but at $18k, you’d better hope your body doesn’t change in the least bit over the years.
 

classicalthunde

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I think this suit will be for work but I won't wear it everyday. I think I will wear it only when it comes important events, important meetings or situations like giving a speech or dinner. I prefer dark colour like black or navy blue and I like Peak Lapel.
look, you came here looking for a specific answer to a specific question, I get it. But it sounds like you and your parents stand on the precipice of flushing $18k down the shitter.

Black is the least versatile option. Fit for funerals and black with peak lapels makes no sense.
a black peak lapel suit that is not a tuxedo is not appropriate for important situations like a speech or a business meeting

you should do a dark grey or navy, single breasted, 2-button, notch lapel suit. if you're running in a crowd of people where spending over $10,000 for a suit isn't out of the ordinary, then they are pretty likely to know what a business suit vs. a party suit should look like...

black is essentially for funerals and tuxedos, and for beginners peak lapels should be reserved for tuxedos or double breasted suits

if you want a fashion-forward party suit, then black peak lapel suit might be okay but would still be some weird hybrid for someone a bit more advanced...
 

FlyingHorker

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21 year old being interested in CM was me.

+1 recommendation for trying out Spier & Mackay first to see how you like wearing tailoring and if it's suitable to your lifestyle.
+1 for trying to spend on casualwear as well. 90% of the time I wore an M65 jacket or a peacoat. Still often do. Overcoat is probably more useful than a bespoke suit.
 

krudsma

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I can almost guarantee that if you spend $18000 on a black peak lapel bespoke suit you will wear it exactly twice and then spend the next several years kicking yourself for not getting something more sensible and versatile. Every time you see it hanging in your closet it will give you a pang of regret.

Lots and lots of people have a very romantic and unrealistic idea of bespoke tailoring. It takes a lot of patience and know-how on the part of the client, and the first commission usually doesn't turn out perfect. You're much better off spending your money on some nice ready-to-wear pieces (the Armoury is a good place to look since it seems like you've got the money), get them altered to fit you perfectly, and get a sense over the years of what you like to wear. Then go ahead and commission the exact piece you want from a tailor who's style matches what you've come to like wearing.
 

All Navy

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I'll echo the above recommendations of casualwear and dabbling in RTW tailoring to figure out your style preferences over time.

At the ~$1200 to 2200 price point, I agree that the The Armoury by Ring Jacket line represents a very good taste level for RTW tailoring that encompasses a broad range of influences (primarily Neapolitan, some Florentine and northern Italian, and more recently American Ivy). The guys in the NYC shops can also provide helpful guidance, especially when you're just starting out.

If your first thought was to jump immediately from Kiton MTM to Huntsman bespoke based on a whim, hold off on Savile Row (or any other bespoke tailoring) until you have some understanding of the house cuts of various tailors. You'll want familiarity with the subject in order for the bespoke process to actually be enjoyable.
 

Nobilis Animus

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Why should the OP buy a bunch of casual clothes to reward himself? The man's not even spending his own money - let him have suits if he wants them.
 

krudsma

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Why should the OP buy a bunch of casual clothes to reward himself? The man's not even spending his own money - let him have suits if he wants them.
The OP said this is his first suit. I don't know about you but I shudder to think what I would have dreamt up if my first suit was a $18000 (or even $1800) bespoke commission when I was 22.
 

Nobilis Animus

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The OP said this is his first suit. I don't know about you but I shudder to think what I would have dreamt up if my first suit was a $18000 (or even $1800) bespoke commission when I was 22.
Right, but there are suits and then there are suits. I think it makes sense to advise him towards good suit purchases first, that's all - maybe trying out some place like Tom Ford in NYC since he likes peak lapels (they have a made-to-measure service too).
 

stuffedsuperdud

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+1 recommendation for trying out Spier & Mackay first to see how you like wearing tailoring and if it's suitable to your lifestyle.
OP listen to this guy. If you go to Spier & Mackay for your shiny Peak Lapel black suit, you will then have $17,500 left to spend on trash items that guys here get hard for, like gurkha pants, popovers, sevenfold ties, and "marbled black" cordovan shoes the color of an oil spill.

Or you can be a normal guy and get a bunch of blow and whores. Be sure your parents understand that you only want the good kind for both. Careful though! The coke is going to show up on the black fabric. Hookerjuice too, but only if your mom shines a blacklight on it when doing your laundry. Both are good for keeping that weight off so that you can keep wearing your suit.

Also if you go to SM you get to hang out at what looks like a very classy strip mall office with some very important self-made entrepreneurs. If you fly out to the Huntsman NYC showroom then you'll probably have to deal with that really offputting Ed fellow from Kirby Allison's videos, which is probably no fun at all. He seems like the kind of guy who will pressure you to hang out with him later and then try to sell you a pair of $1800 bespoke jeans to wear with your green velvet dinner jacket. I'm actually not joking here; this actually happened in ~2019 according to his misplaced boasting about what bored upper class British kids will spend their $18,000 of disposable cash on (and DWW was probably all like, "Kant and Nietzsche and Confucius agree that that's not CM!").

Right, but there are suits and then there are suits.
Jesus. Vesper died in 2006, guy. Just because CraigBond can't get over it, and Blofeld made it the centerpiece of his Austin Powers esque plot nine years after that doesn't mean you get to beat her over our heads too.
 

Phileas Fogg

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Right, but there are suits and then there are suits. I think it makes sense to advise him towards good suit purchases first, that's all - maybe trying out some place like Tom Ford in NYC since he likes peak lapels (they have a made-to-measure service too).
Pretty sure Tom Ford MTM comes in well below $18k.

For me, it’s not that he wants a bespoke suit. It’s the budget and the style he wants.

Come to think of it, does anyone know of a suit, off the rack or otherwise, that would cost $18k? I mean, it sounds like some shit that Bijan would sell.
 

dieworkwear

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Pretty sure Tom Ford MTM comes in well below $18k.

For me, it’s not that he wants a bespoke suit. It’s the budget and the style he wants.

Come to think of it, does anyone know of a suit, off the rack or otherwise, that would cost $18k? I mean, it sounds like some shit that Bijan would sell.
Any suit can cost $18,000 if you ask the salesperson to ring you up for that amount.
 

Nobilis Animus

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Pretty sure Tom Ford MTM comes in well below $18k.

For me, it’s not that he wants a bespoke suit. It’s the budget and the style he wants.

Come to think of it, does anyone know of a suit, off the rack or otherwise, that would cost $18k? I mean, it sounds like some shit that Bijan would sell.
Oh yes, that's why I mentioned it. I also agree that it might be better for him to start off with something amazing and high quality, given his budget, but also have some latitude for another purchase instead of spending it all on one suit.

If he wants only one though, I'm sure there are rare and valuable fabrics that might cost that much bespoke. I once saw a cape woven from Golden Orb spider webs at a fashion exhibit in Toronto - pictures do not do its resplendency justice. I imagine that such a thing would cost more than $18000, if it could even command a price of money.
 

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