Need a shirt fit diagnosis (bunching on back beneath collar)

[Mentos]

On my Janzten shirts, the fabric bunches horizontally at the top middle of my back, just beneath the collar. It's the same thing that I see with a lot of OTR jackets. If I pull the bottom back of the shirt, the fabric flattens out, but then just crawls back up again. My guess is that I'm ordering the shoulders too tight, and that letting them out a half-inch or so will prevent the bunching. Is that right?

I can certainly upload photos if needed. Thanks.

 

[Gong Tao]

I noticed this on my Jantzen shirts, and then I realized that all my shirts do it (I also often have to get my jackets altered because of the same problem). When I went to Hong Kong I showed it to David at Jantzen and he altered my pattern so that subsequent shirts don't do it.
I'm not exactly sure what change needs to be made, but if you sent Jantzen a picture, that might allow them to fix it on future orders.

 

[lawyerdad]

I mentioned it in an email to Ricky, and the issue was mitigated, although not entirely eliminated, in later orders. In part, I think using a split yoke helps.

 

[Rolo]

I found that moving from "normal" to "square" shade of shoulder eliminated most of the problem.

Rolo

 

[a tailor]

Originally Posted by Mentos

On my Janzten shirts, the fabric bunches horizontally at the top middle of my back, just beneath the collar. It's the same thing that I see with a lot of OTR jackets. If I pull the bottom back of the shirt, the fabric flattens out, but then just crawls back up again. My guess is that I'm ordering the shoulders too tight, and that letting them out a half-inch or so will prevent the bunching. Is that right?

I can certainly upload photos if needed. Thanks.

you have an erect posture.
that requires a pattern change.
the back must be shortened at top.