need a refresher on the Oxxford Crest

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by The_Foxx, Nov 23, 2007.

  1. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Senior member

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    Can someone remind me (or show me an example, as worn) about the Oxxford Crest model? I seem to remember I didn't like it, but I can't recall why-- and that was before I bought the Radcliff.

    Shoulders? Details? I have to replace a Brioni tragedy that happened after alterations, a suit that I got at an extreme discount that turned out to be a mess.
     


  2. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Senior member

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    come on, i know someone owns a crest out there. what makes it a crest?

    [​IMG]
     


  3. darkoak

    darkoak Senior member

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  4. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Senior member

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    thanks-- sounds like a slightly broader shoulder, and a full lining.
     


  5. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    thanks-- sounds like a slightly broader shoulder, and a full lining.

    I have a few Crest jackets. A full lining is not inherent to the model; I also wouldn't say the shoulders are particularly 'broad'. The shoulders are padded and very clean; they may be characterized as natural but they have no roundness at all: similar to Brioni. The chest is very lean with no drape at all; quite stiff. There is very little flare in the skirt (almost none) and the quarters are moderately open. Other details depend on what you order.

    An example, with the padding in the shoulders removed:
    [​IMG]
     


  6. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Senior member

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    extremely helpful, mafoof. thank you!
     


  7. RJman

    RJman Posse Member Dubiously Honored

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    An example, with the padding in the shoulders removed:
    With all due respect, the removal of the padding appears to make the shoulders so concave they remind me of a Pierre Cardin design in the late 1970s with broad, upswept shoulders that made the wearer look like a horned beetle.
     


  8. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    With all due respect, the removal of the padding appears to make the shoulders so concave they remind me of a Pierre Cardin design in the late 1970s with broad, upswept shoulders that made the wearer look like a horned beetle.

    Noted. But, to be fair, I'm hunching my shoulders a little in that picture; when I stand upright, the effect is much diminished. Anyway, I don't use Oxxford anymore precisely because of such problems ("no padding" was always interpreted as "make with padding, then remove padding").
     


  9. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    Noted. But, to be fair, I'm hunching my shoulders a little in that picture; when I stand upright, the effect is much diminished. Anyway, I don't use Oxxford anymore precisely because of such problems ("no padding" was always interpreted as "make with padding, then remove padding").
    Being that you are not 100% satisfied with Oxxford, your opinion does not matter. [​IMG].
     


  10. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Slightly wider shoulder, nipped waist, cut close at the hip, slightly longer jacket. It is a somewhat dramatic cut.
     


  11. thinman

    thinman Senior member

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    Slightly wider shoulder, nipped waist, cut close at the hip, slightly longer jacket. It is a somewhat dramatic cut.
    +1. Also a slightly roped shoulder. Here's an earlier post of mine, including a picture: http://www.styleforum.net/showpost.p...5&postcount=16
     


  12. rssmsvc

    rssmsvc Senior member

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    I thought I read that the Crest line was designed by Jack Taylor , the famous Beverly Hills tailor but ended when they parted ways. However, I still see new models of the Crest in stores. I thought there was a line called Oxxford Couture that became the crest. Usually the materials are very good and bolder with a slimmer fit.
     


  13. OxxfordSJLINY

    OxxfordSJLINY Senior member

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    I have a few Crest jackets. A full lining is not inherent to the model; I also wouldn't say the shoulders are particularly 'broad'. The shoulders are padded and very clean; they may be characterized as natural but they have no roundness at all: similar to Brioni. The chest is very lean with no drape at all; quite stiff. There is very little flare in the skirt (almost none) and the quarters are moderately open. Other details depend on what you order.

    An example, with the padding in the shoulders removed:
    [​IMG]


    Of all of the Crest jackets that I have seen, I definitely like yours the most, mafoofan. That two-button single breasted Crest jacket with the peak lapel is ultra sharp! [​IMG]

    I really like in particular that the peak lapel on your Crest jacket is so wide (I am estimating that the peak lapel on your Crest jacket is a minimum of four inches wide and a maximum of five inches wide). [​IMG]

    I am sorry that you will no longer be buying from Oxxford doe to the problems you have had with them like iammatt.

    I know I sound repetitive, but despite iammatt's serious dissatisfaction with Oxxford, he did say that, generally speaking, it is impossible to do just as good as Oxxford or better than Oxxford without going bespoke. I take it you that you did go bespoke, just like rssmsvc, trmaldo, ranchsooner and iammatt (all of whom went to bespoke due to dissatisfaction with Oxxford and in some cases, other brands-but not tailors, of course-with made to measure from lowest end to highest end), mafoofan.

    bowtiemeow is the only dissatisfied Oxxford person that switched to another brand MTM (Samuelsohn to be exact, with lots of satisfaction, oddly enough). Apparently, bowtiemeow also had dissatisfaction with Hickey Freeman, H. Freeman (which is a sepearate company from Hickey Freeman, FWIW) and many or all other brands with MTM.
     


  14. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    With all due respect, the removal of the padding appears to make the shoulders so concave they remind me of a Pierre Cardin design in the late 1970s with broad, upswept shoulders that made the wearer look like a horned beetle.

    I think M. has his shoulders back a little in that photo, judging by the pulling at the waist. It's a good knockaround coat even so, and one might as well try to be an American when in Naples. A board-stiff RTW J. Press sack would have kicked *ss in Napoli.

    I have not once seen an Oxxford MTM example that looked better than its RTW version...with the caveat that all the MTMs I've seen are retail-salesman measured. Who trains them? How do they learn what they are doing? What gives them their aesthetic background, and how are those aesthetics connected to knowledge of craft? This is a great failing of the Oxxford way of merchandizing hand-finished product.

    I own a bit of Oxxford that I like, but I do not love any of it. I have no theory why this is so, but it is always a bit off the mark.

    I feel that Oxxford is the kid one always cheers on, but never quite makes it. In fact, I would like to see one photograph where someone wearing Oxxford looks elegant...other than an ad.

    M. looks okay by my book, though. His physique strays too far from stock patterns to be served by MTM in my opinion, and he was wise to have made the financial leap to fewer, more individualized, product...and to that category where clothes are cut with informed taste.

    I posted a Charvet shirt question today, if you have time to answer.


    - B
     


  15. rssmsvc

    rssmsvc Senior member

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    bowtiemeow is the only dissatisfied Oxxford person that switched to another brand MTM (Samuelsohn to be exact, with lots of satisfaction, MTM.

    I have heard from several other forum members who have switched, and in my case not being able to get an honest answer months after asking where 2 lost suits and 2 odd pants have disappeared and waiting for a year is enough to make me wonder what advantage going to them over a tailor would be.
     


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