Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by The_Foxx, Jun 1, 2002.
thought it would be interesting to see the brands of ties people prefer, and why they prefer them.
My taste in neckties ranges from bold and colorful (Vitaliano Pancaldi),to more conservatively patterned,but nonetheless stunning (Ermenegildo Zegna and Robert Talbot Best Of Class & Seven-Fold ties),depending on the occasion,and my mood.
Being a bit younger than most (21), I like monochrome ties and subtle patterns. To this end, Calvin Klein and Armani are my favorites. I also like Zegna, Ferragamo, Gucci, and Alfred Dunhill.
Construction-wise, I much prefer Kiton seven-folds, although I wish my Kitons would have that cool little buttonhole-stay-thingy that my Brionis came with.....
I've never been too terribly impressed with Zegna's silk ties, although I do have 15milmil15 and cashmere ties by the firm that are quite good.
Unlike Zegna, Ferragamo's ties are wonderful in all materials. I like my silk one and my wool one equally well. Ferragamo's patterns, like Kiton's, are also a bit more daring than other makers of quality neckwear.
Other marques whose ties I like are Lanvin and Hermes, . I'll even confess to owning a Versace, although the pattern drew me to it, rather than the quality of its construction.
An excellent value in a domestic American tie is Ike Behar. They are made from excellent silk and are tipped with the same material as the body of the tie.
Armani ties are shockingly bad quality for the money. In addition to occasionally being made of plastic instead of silk, one can always tell who's wearing an Armani tie because their knots do not 'pop out' the way a good tie does.
I recently came across RL Purple Lable ties, which are now my favorite. I like the skinnier cut and appreciate the hand made quality. The patterns are also conservative and subtle.
My tastes in ties range from classic (Charvet) to edgy (Matsuda). I certainly can't argue with the quality of Kiton. However, I don't wear ties with great frequency, and when I do, I like to choose from a wide selection. Thus, the construction of most reputable companies is plenty good for me. (My Armani ties knot just fine, and not one is made of plastic. ) Some of my favorites include Tino Cosma, Jhane Barnes, Lazo, and Richard James. Really, though, there are so many gorgeous ties out there I had to stop buying them; I already have more than I'll ever wear.
I'm with Mr. Stoller- have many more ties than I'll ever wear. I like the older Zegna Disegno Esclusivo- for width, colors and designs, and perfect half windsor knot. Plus they travel well, and "unwrinkle" very easily. Have a few T&As to go with my shirts, but I don't like narrower ties. I think the Talbott Best of Class are great, but their 7 folds, particularly when compared to Kiton, Borrelli, or Isaia, are way overpriced.
I also think XMI Platinum is making a great tie out of British silk these days at a great price. I also have a large collection of Enrico Isaia 7 folds, mostly striped.
Check out the Japanese firm Seigo. Beautiful work. They are on Madison and 90th street in NYC. Japanese silk, very fine quality. Patterns come both conservative and modestly attention-getting, and the colors are lovely. Bow ties and scarves are also available. Seigo repairs their ties, will do custom orders and twice a year has a trade-in period. Any of their ties that you feel are worn-out can be traded in for a 20% discount on new ties.
I hardly ever need to wear a tie, but prefer paisley numbers by Etro or Zegna when I do and the occasion is appropriate. I like the weight of Kiton and Brioni ties, but rarely find a pattern I like. When I need a subdued tie, I generally go with a woven Ferragamo tie with the horseshoe logo, or a Hermes tie with the repeating H. In terms of construction, I think that Charvet ties are par excellence.
However, for their price, I find the Donna Karan Signature ties are by far the best bet - especially if you are looking for textured solids - a far better value than and of comparable quality to the profusion of designer ties.
You wanna talk value-priced neckwear? Check this out: All of the following: 1) Gorgeous cream patterned Brioni (for wear with darker-coloured shirts) with complementary pocket square 2) Gucci interlocking "GG" deal in teal (Normally I don't do logos, but for thirty euro, it's nice to have just in case one one has to impress a labelwhore with no eye for quality...) 3) Two Ferragamos, one orange silk patterned, one burgundy wool with woven grey pattern 4) Two Kiton seven-folders, one rep one woven pattern 5) One not super well-made but beautifully-printed Roberto Cavalli for a mere two hundred euro. (US$185) Or, about the high street price of the Brioni set in Europe. How'd I luck into all that? (As well as a few Loro Piana sweaters and Brioni shirts at 70% off? Just to rub it in ) One of Vienna's menswear Meccas, E. Braun & Co. (Graben ecke Stock-im-Eisen-Platz), is getting ready to renovate, and they had a special after-hours pre-sale for regular customers.... I also buy more ties than I wear. Truth be told, I don't think I've worn the same tie twice in 2002.... Peace, JG
His post is over two years old though . Was that the current exhange rate back then?
Yeah, unfortunately... I didn't pay attention to the date because it was the last post... Euro moved from about $0.88 or so to $1.30+ before coming down to $1.22...
Brioni's ties are great simply because they are thick. Every time I tie them they knot just right the first time.
Hermes ties are great simply due to their patterns which are small enough that they aren't too flashy, but their thin and don't tie quite as well.
i buy ties (way too many) in many price ranges and living in new york city can often buy the most expensive at great sale prices.i find that most of the better men's shops in new york city have teriffic selection regardless of label..i look for a tie that makes a full knot to go with wide spead collars..i have stopped now,after many years, buying armani (great patterns & textures) because they knot poorly in this respect.for great selection at affordable prices ($34 or $39) i recommend andrews ties (www.andrewsties.com) for quality italian silks.unfortunately their only 1 american store presently (on madison avenue here in new york)..
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