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Neckties: A Discussion Thread

d4rkiez

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How about ties made of wool or wool/cashmere. Are there any merits for interlining when we compare a 4 fold + interlining vs a 6 or 7 fold? I understand for silk tie the pure wool interlining helps to even out the creases when undone
 

Sam Hober

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Again trust your tie maker as a general rule all fabrics even wool challis cashmere etc are better with interlinings.

Helping with creases is not the only reason for interlinings.

Please note I am talking about a beautiful 100 percent wool Italian luxury interlining

Also again there is no need for more than 3 folds unless you like the feeling of a heavier tie.
 

white collar

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Unless you have a special reason for a lightly lined tie you should always get the normal intérlining.

I base this on the experience of making ties daily and listening to feedback.

Also unless you have a preference for a heavier tie there is no reason for a 5 fold construction as you have already mentioned your interest in light interlining.

A 5 fold construction and light interlining are not the best plan.

Unless you have done this before and love it then it is fine beauty is always in the eye of the beholder.

Remember a well made luxury tie can be worn year round with only a few exceptions...

3 fold normal lining then. For some reason I thought most of Styleforum disliked 3 folds in favor of the all holy 7 fold. I only own 3 folds as of now so thats fine for me. Thank you to everyone who has contributed to this discussion, I'll be sure to share when the order comes in!
 

House of KYDOS

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Hello @SartodiNapoli ,

i am sorry it took me so long to reply. if my great grandfather was making them in the early 1900s in Greece then i bet they were making them in Italy as well. truth is that it is very hard to make an 8-fold tie without interlining. it requires alot of care, patience and alot of time, which translates to high costs and maybe that is why not many make unlined ties anymore (and its part of our price tag as well). the unlined 7-fold is an easier option as one can get away without balancing the folds, so it can be finished faster and its is less expensive. that is not nice, but some elect do it

we currently make 2 types of unlined ties. one is the 8-fold (elafria) which you see me posting every so and then on our affiliate and the other is a 4-fold (panalafri). the 8-fold doesnt blow away because there are so many layers of fabric, still it has a "flow" which i find elegant and it is light weight and cooler around the neck as we already discussed.

the 4-fold now, is a different thing and it realy does feel like a scarf, which is good for me because in the heat you forget that you are wearing a tie and still look properly dress for any occassion. can it get blown away? yes, and its fun (ladies like it for sure) and for those that they mind it so much there are tie clips available


another important factor to quality tie making are of course the fabrics and that is were intelining interfers once again... but thats another big issue

i wish you a good weekend and waiting to hear your thoughts

paris
 
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stook1

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Hi Folks, I'm interested in some feedback on the versatility and impressions of the Kent Wang bicolor grenadine here: http://www.kentwang.com/ties/grenadine-bicolor-burgundy-black.html

It is listed as burgundy with black undertones but shows with a somewhat purple-ish tone. I traded notes with Jonathan from Kent Wang about it yesterday. Hopefully he doesn't mind my sharing his impressions here. What he said follows:

"The essence of the tie is very unique and is quite hard to describe. In my opinion from a distance it would look almost like a dark burgundy but once up close you can see it as a dark shade of purple. The black color is woven into the tie as a complement so you won't see a distinctive shade of the black all at once."

This would be my first grenadine and also my first solid colored tie. I have some subtle patterns but not solids. I was originally planning to get a solid navy grenadine but this one is in stock now in the right size and length for me and was thinking about getting this one now and the navy later.

That having been said, I was curious what folks think of this bi-color tie? Versatile? Or stick with the more classic true solids in one of the colors that people typically suggest (ie. navy, black, dark green, wine, burgundy, etc.).

thank you!
 

bc78

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Hi Folks, I'm interested in some feedback on the versatility and impressions of the Kent Wang bicolor grenadine here:  http://www.kentwang.com/ties/grenadine-bicolor-burgundy-black.html

It is listed as burgundy with black undertones but shows with a somewhat purple-ish tone.  I traded notes with Jonathan from Kent Wang about it yesterday.  Hopefully he doesn't mind my sharing his impressions here.  What he said follows:

[COLOR=222222]"The essence of the tie is very unique and is quite hard to describe. In my opinion from a distance it would look almost like a dark burgundy but once up close you can see it as a dark shade of purple. The black color is woven into the tie as a complement so you won't see a distinctive shade of the black all at once."[/COLOR]

[COLOR=222222]This would be my first grenadine and also my first solid colored tie.  I have some subtle patterns but not solids.  I was originally planning to get a solid navy grenadine but this one is in stock now in the right size and length for me and was thinking about getting this one now and the navy later.[/COLOR]

[COLOR=222222]That having been said, I was curious what folks think of this bi-color tie?  Versatile?  Or stick with the more classic true solids in one of the colors that people typically suggest (ie. navy, black, dark green, wine, burgundy, etc.).[/COLOR]

[COLOR=222222]thank you![/COLOR]


I have a similar tie from Hober. It's versatile enough, sure. For your first grenadine navy or a more traditional dark burgundy would be more versatile though. Besides the colors you listed, brown and silver grenadines are quite useful.
 
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ericgereghty

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I have a similar tie from Hober. It's versatile enough, sure. For your first grenadine navy or a more traditional dark burgundy would be more versatile though. Besides the colors you listed, brown and silver grenadines are quite useful.
Great call here. Pair with a navy suit and crisp white shirt, and you'll be as sharp as can be.
 

bc78

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Great call here. Pair with a navy suit and crisp white shirt, and you'll be as sharp as can be.


thank you!

not to derail you stook, but once you get your grenadine fix, you may want to check out Wang's silver wedding ties. they're quite nice too
 

stook1

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thank you!

not to derail you stook, but once you get your grenadine fix, you may want to check out Wang's silver wedding ties. they're quite nice too

No worries! Not sure I love the silver, really. I have sort of a light olive color complexion and almost black hair so I feel like I look a bit better with richer toned ties. Not sure I can pull off the silver tie with grey suit also, whereas some of the other colors could work with grey or navy suits (correct me if I am wrong, admittedly my stylistic sense lacks the refinement of most of the gentlemen posting).
 
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bc78

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No worries!  Not sure I love the silver, really.  I have sort of a light olive color complexion and almost black hair so I feel like I look a bit better with richer toned ties.  Not sure I can pull off the silver tie with grey suit also, whereas some of the other colors could work with grey or navy suits (correct me if I am wrong, admittedly my stylistic sense lacks the refinement of most of the gentlemen posting).


A dark burgundy might be good then

You could wear a silver tie with a grey suit and white shirt, I suppose, but I think navy is far better
 
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stook1

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A dark burgundy might be good then

You could wear a silver tie with a grey suit and white shirt, I suppose, but I think navy is far better

BC, just to clarify, were you talking about the bi-color grenadine that I'd asked about or the more traditional solid burgundy? Also, about the bi-color, since you have something similar, do you feel like it shows as a solid tie unless you're really close to it? Trying to decide if it is simple enough to pair with a pattered suit and/or shirt or if it is a little too busy looking to pull off that look.
 

bc78

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BC, just to clarify, were you talking about the bi-color grenadine that I'd asked about or the more traditional solid burgundy?  Also, about the bi-color, since you have something similar, do you feel like it shows as a solid tie unless you're really close to it?  Trying to decide if it is simple enough to pair with a pattered suit and/or shirt or if it is a little too busy looking to pull off that look.


With your coloring, I think a traditional dark burgundy is the safer choice. I've never seen the bi-color Wang tie in person, so it's hard for me to speak to that. My hober is this one: http://www.samhober.com/grenadine-fina-solid-ties/dark-purple-black-grenadine-fina-silk-tie-35.html

It shows as being solid unless you're close, but more resembles a deep purple than a deep burgundy. I wouldn't hesitate to wear it with a patterned suit or shirt.
 

stook1

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With your coloring, I think a traditional dark burgundy is the safer choice. I've never seen the bi-color Wang tie in person, so it's hard for me to speak to that. My hober is this one: http://www.samhober.com/grenadine-fina-solid-ties/dark-purple-black-grenadine-fina-silk-tie-35.html

It shows as being solid unless you're close, but more resembles a deep purple than a deep burgundy. I wouldn't hesitate to wear it with a patterned suit or shirt.

It sounds like the tie I was referring to might be closer to this one: http://www.samhober.com/grenadine-g...urple-black-grenadine-grossa-silk-tie-35.html

I could be completely wrong and as I write this it seems counter-intuitive, but it looks from the pics like the grossa looks less bi-colored than the fina, which I think I prefer. In terms of the color, I have a woven silk burgundy tie already that I enjoy wearing, which is a very simple pattern. I'll think over the more purpleish option.
 

Sam Hober

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It sounds like the tie I was referring to might be closer to this one:  http://www.samhober.com/grenadine-g...urple-black-grenadine-grossa-silk-tie-35.html

I could be completely wrong and as I write this it seems counter-intuitive, but it looks from the pics like the grossa looks less bi-colored than the fina, which I think I prefer.  In terms of the color, I have a woven silk burgundy tie already that I enjoy wearing, which is a very simple pattern.  I'll think over the more purplish option.


Stook1,

It can be hard to tell small details from photos on the internet. In real life the fina is tighter than the grossa and the weft and warp silk yarns blend together better.

The warp yarns are the long ones and run the length of the looms and the weft yarns run across the warp yarns and give the pattern details
 

d4rkiez

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Hello @SartodiNapoli ,

i am sorry it took me so long to reply. if my great grandfather was making them in the early 1900s in Greece then i bet they were making them in Italy as well. truth is that it is very hard to make an 8-fold tie without interlining. it requires alot of care, patience and alot of time, which translates to high costs and maybe that is why not many make unlined ties anymore (and its part of our price tag as well). the unlined 7-fold is an easier option as one can get away without balancing the folds, so it can be finished faster and its is less expensive. that is not nice, but some elect do it

we currently make 2 types of unlined ties. one is the 8-fold (elafria) which you see me posting every so and then on our affiliate and the other is a 4-fold (panalafri). the 8-fold doesnt blow away because there are so many layers of fabric, still it has a "flow" which i find elegant and it is light weight and cooler around the neck as we already discussed.

the 4-fold now, is a different thing and it realy does feel like a scarf, which is good for me because in the heat you forget that you are wearing a tie and still look properly dress for any occassion. can it get blown away? yes, and its fun (ladies like it for sure) and for those that they mind it so much there are tie clips available


another important factor to quality tie making are of course the fabrics and that is were intelining interfers once again... but thats another big issue

i wish you a good weekend and waiting to hear your thoughts

paris

For both the 8-fold and 4-fold options, do the folds extend all the way to the neck portion? How many folds would there be if we were to pry open the tie at the neck?
 

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