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Neckties: A Discussion Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Sep 15, 2015.

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  1. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I would happily wear this (if it's brown with blue stripes)

    [​IMG]

    From Bryceland's (Ethan Newton's new store) via DWW. I take it this is Tie your Tie (or Kenji Kaga). Alas, 7 fold, probably priced beyond the reach of mere mortals then. But I like the subtle blue stripes.

    I think as I max out on basics (solids, subtle patterns, basic stripes), these more interesting but still subtle variations are very appealing.
     
  2. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Drake's SS 2016

    I think I'm over shantungs. Good to have a few, but...

    Finding the new Drake's to be...ok. possibly disappointing. Perhaps more will come out.

    Some pics

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  3. 41L35W

    41L35W Member

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    Three of my more recent tie purchases (Kiton, H.N. White, Drake's) are a heavier, stiffer silk that simply does not dimple for me. I usually tie a four-in-hand. Is there a better knot for these stiffer silk ties? Or some trick I am missing?
     
  4. junglcmndo

    junglcmndo Well-Known Member

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    I picked up the Navy Repp Tie which I can't find on the website anymore so Im assuming it sold out. It feels really light and delicate compared to my other ties. It does tie a great knot, but sometimes I worry that if i tug too hard it might screw the tie up. Not sure if that makes any sense.
     
  5. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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  6. Veremund

    Veremund Senior member

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    Dimples are rarely a naturally occurring phenomenon. It's in the technique. Use your pointer finger to create the dimple while tightening the tie.
     
  7. Sam Hober

    Sam Hober Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Veremund,


    I agree - completely.

    Wider ties will be easier to create dimples with but even narrow ties can have nice dimples with some patience and practice.
     
    1 person likes this.
  8. 41L35W

    41L35W Member

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    Thank you both. I will keep trying. I will say that some of my ties dimple naturally without even trying, and others dimple with some effort. Knowing it should be possible in all ties, I'll try some more!
     
  9. Sam Hober

    Sam Hober Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    41L35W,


    Perhaps some of the ties are wider than others?

    I wonder what the difference is in fabrics?
     
  10. 41L35W

    41L35W Member

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    At least one of them is ?36? ounce silk. What seems common among them is what I characterize as stiffness. They just are not soft like other ties, if that makes sense. The lack of suppleness makes it harder to form the dimple.
     
  11. Sam Hober

    Sam Hober Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    4135W,

    "36oz" is an old term that used to refer to the weight of a length of silk around 10 yards long. Now it is a marketing term used by Adamley in Macclesfield England for one variety of their printed silks.

    The silk is a twill weave and not heavy nor is it stiff - so there must be some other variable at play here such as perhaps a heavy and stiff interlining that is not what you are comfortable with?

    Is your tie a printed twill silk?
     
  12. kravatorf

    kravatorf Member

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    actually, I prefer a stiff fabric to make a nice dimple that will last all day long without having a too tight knot.

    anyway, you can try this simple trick: pinch the front blade fabric both above and under the knot just before tightening the knot so that the dimple is held by the whole knot.
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. 41L35W

    41L35W Member

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    One is a Drake's. Here is the description:

    Drake's hand printed fine silk twill foulards are the quintessential English ties, elegant and classic.
    100% silk, spun & net
    36 oz. handprinted silk foulard
    Self-tipped (in the same cloth)
    Handmade in London, England

    The Kiton actually tied a decent knot today so maybe previously the problem was operator error:

    [ATTACHMENT=12528]image.jpeg (876k. jpeg file)[/ATTACHMENT]

    The third tie, an HN White, actually is a 50oz silk:

    50oz silk twill, digitally printed in Macclesfield
    Mid blue and off-white houndstooth
    Medium weight pure wool interlining
    Self tipped
    9cm wide x 150cm long
    Handmade in England

    Thanks for lending your expertise to this!!
     
  14. 41L35W

    41L35W Member

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    Thank you!! I will try that next time.
     
  15. Big Bird

    Big Bird Senior member

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    Cross post.
    Some new Cappelli ties arrived today.
    [​IMG]

    Very happy with all of them. They are all much lovelier than my poor picture shows. One can not have too many classics.

    Wife was not that impressed. -“Three blue and two green? How adventurous… Can’t you buy some fun ties once in a while?”

    I tried to explain that all of these are fun in their own way. She didn’t buy it.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2016
    7 people like this.
  16. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Moderator

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  17. Bespoke DJP

    Bespoke DJP Senior member

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    Dear @Sam Hober

    At some point, in your Appreciation Thread there was a discussion, suggestion rather from a lot of gentlemen concerning your disposition versus the production of knit ties. Since it's been a while, is there any new input on the subject matter?

    Cheers

    Dimitris
     
  18. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    Fun usually means obnoxious or 'cute'. [​IMG]
     
  19. Sam Hober

    Sam Hober Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Dimitris,


    Interesting that you should mention knits as my daughter Samantha - Sam Hober - has been knitting scarves recently and is working on ideas for knitting ties.

    We still want to create knit ties but we are not yet ready.

    Normally knit ties are made like very long socks which limits the number of sizes that are practical.

    We need to come up with a solution that allows us to quickly change widths and lengths etc..
     
  20. Bespoke DJP

    Bespoke DJP Senior member

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    Dear David,

    Thank you very much for your kind reply which is very informative. We have a saying stating that the apple will fall just at the bottom part of the apple tree; if you dont't come with a solution, Samantha will do it soon (I know she is still very young, but consider the apple tree...).

    I truly hope that we will all receive news on knit ties from your part, and it will be my honor to host this information to a thread that I just started. There, I am waiting all knit-tie aficionados to participate.

    Best

    Dimitris

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/517582/quintessential-knit-ties-comprehensive-discussion-appreciation
     

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