Neckties: A Discussion Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Sep 15, 2015.

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  1. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

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    Suscribed. I love and do ties.

    What is a Nehru collar?
     


  2. PiCcolocV

    PiCcolocV Senior member

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    KW:

    [​IMG]
     


  3. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Features quite a few.

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    Indeed, there is nothing wrong with a good jacquard, but there are so many bad jacquards out there that the good get lost in the muck.
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2015


  4. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    This in spades. From the examples you posted, I would only consider wearing the first one. Don't care for the others.

    Come on people, show us your favourite jacquards and prove that they can be tasteful.
     


  5. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I wouldn't consider any in the Drakes a good jacquard. Colors and patterns notwithstanding, I think these TYT (courtesy of ET) are good jacquards:

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    This too:

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    The jacquards that @Kent Wang carry, I just can't bring myself to like. (And I want to). They are better than Drakes' I think.
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    and I own this (a gift from my wife) jacquard from Hober
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    I recall hearing somewhere that "jacquard" is actually a much more expansive term than what we use it for. I think grenadines are technically jacquard as well? Or are produced on similar jacquard looms? @Henry Carter I think I got this from you.
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2015


  6. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Come on, Clags. You gotsta spoiler them shits. Blech.
     


  7. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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  8. Sam Hober

    Sam Hober Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A jacquard fabric is simply one woven on a jacquard loom.

    Most modern fabrics are jacquards.

    Simple looms don't have the ability to easily do complex patterns which a jacquard loom can do - think of the designs as done by a computer. I think sort of like punch cards originally.

    In Lyon, France there is a great museum with actual antique looms that were used. I loved this museum.

    Also in Lyon there is at least one restored jacquard loom that is currently in use. The day I went no one could speak English and my French is not very good so I couldn't ask too many detailed questions about how the designs are programmed.

    I am not sure of the exact date but perhaps weaving started in Lyon around the 1400s. I enjoyed the city, and it is easy to walk in a great place to visit.
     


  9. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What are you talking about. It's Drakes. They have to be good.

    @Sam Hober Ah, I wonder if perhaps I heard that from you. Is the fabric commonly used for printed neats also woven on jacquard looms? I'm also sort of curious when "jacquard" became vernacular for a certain type of tie/tie fabric.
     


  10. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    Very interesting, thanks. Well, it had to be a French technique with a name like that.

    Old Lyon is a delightful place, with some of the best food in France. Poulet de Bresse, superb charcuterie, cheeses from the Savoie....
     


  11. Sam Hober

    Sam Hober Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I don't typically use the term jacquard in conversation as it is like air everywhere in the world of silk...

    Printed ties commonly use a twill silk although there are lots of possibilities.

    I am not aware that "jacquard" has become vernacular for anything.

    Perhaps recently some SF posters have started to use it?

    I have been part of SF basically since the beginning (a bit more than 10 years) and I don't recall any use of the term jacquard as a type of tie until very recently. And I have grown up in the fashion industry (going with my father on the weekends to our clothing factories for as long as I can remember) and I never heard the term used.

    Probably the only time I would use the term is when I am comparing one silk to another that was not woven on a jacquard loom. As an example we have woven striped and plaid silks in the past on simple hand looms here in Thailand and we have had woven for us stripes and plaids on modern jacquard looms.
     


  12. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    I guess when people say jacquard they mean woven. Whether on a jacquard loom or any other.
     


  13. Sam Hober

    Sam Hober Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    In general all tie fabrics are woven (a few exceptions, knits come to mind), so saying a jacquard means woven is not very helpful.

    Forums like SF are certainly about fun but they serve a real purpose in explaining the technical aspects of clothes and I am strong supporter of this.

    EliodA,

    One of the best parts of Lyon is that you can walk almost anywhere.

    As I recall walking up the hill to the old Roman site and the cathedral is a bit of a walk but great exercise and gets you ready for lunch - smiling...
     
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2015


  14. ike_hiking_boots

    ike_hiking_boots Senior member

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  15. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    I suspect Clags used the term to denote a certain three-dimensionality obtained via the weaving process itself.

    I know just enough about mathematics and geometry to know that I don't want to know how this is achieved.
     


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