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Neck Roll/Back Pucker

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by bigbris1, May 3, 2009.

  1. bigbris1

    bigbris1 Senior member

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    I had a jacket waisted 2 different times by 2 different tailors following weight loss. It's a Mantoni suit, which I never loved so much than now because of the fit. But there is an outward pucker between my shoulder blades now due to the cinching.

    When I fold & pin .25" material up & under the collar, this goes away but then I get the neck roll (obviously). What it the procedure to rid my jacket of this? How is the neck roll normally fixed?

    When I pinned vertically between the blades I still get the neck roll.

    I'd like to try & do it myself before taking it back to the tailor.

    Thanks
     


  2. polar-lemon

    polar-lemon Senior member

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    I had a jacket waisted 2 different times by 2 different tailors following weight loss. It's a Mantoni suit, which I never loved so much than now because of the fit. But there is an outward pucker between my shoulder blades now due to the cinching.

    When I fold & pin .25" material up & under the collar, this goes away but then I get the neck roll (obviously). What it the procedure to rid my jacket of this? How is the neck roll normally fixed?

    When I pinned vertically between the blades I still get the neck roll.

    I'd like to try & do it myself before taking it back to the tailor.

    Thanks


    Fixing neck roll usually requires lowering of the collar.
     


  3. bigbris1

    bigbris1 Senior member

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    I think I'm going to have to demonstrate to the tailor exactly what to do as I doubt many folks up where I live know or even care about neck roll.
     


  4. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It is a common alteration for a tailor with skill enough to remake the shoulder and do collar work. The cause of the roll could be several things. Tension/tightness over big blades or the jacket shoulder is sloped more than your natural shoulders or you have an erect posture and the back is long.
     


  5. Journeyman

    Journeyman Senior member

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    As Mr Despos stated, this is a pretty common alteration.

    I've found that I have a horizontal crease below the back of the collar on most of my suits when I first purchase them, and so I need to have some cloth taken up under the collar.

    However, on a couple of suits, I've had a vertical fold of cloth under the back of the collar, running down the middle of the back, and so I've needed to have that taken in, too.

    I don't know why some suits have one and some have the other, but my tailor deals with it quickly and easily. He doesn't charge very much for the alteration, either.
     


  6. bigbris1

    bigbris1 Senior member

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    Good to know, thanks all.
     


  7. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

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    It is a common alteration for a tailor with skill enough to remake the shoulder and do collar work. The cause of the roll could be several things. Tension/tightness over big blades or the jacket shoulder is sloped more than your natural shoulders or you have an erect posture and the back is long.

    What is actually being done is shortening the back, no?
     


  8. overdog

    overdog Senior member

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    What is involved in when a tailor lowers a collar? Does he detach the collar, remove fabric from the neck area, and reattach the collar?

    I just took a suit in to get altered and they quoted me $42 to lower the collar. Compared to $30 to take in the sides and $8 to hem the pants. Should lowering the collar cost more than taking in the sides?
     


  9. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What is actually being done is shortening the back, no?

    yes the back is being shortened at the top.
     


  10. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    What is involved in when a tailor lowers a collar? Does he detach the collar, remove fabric from the neck area, and reattach the collar?

    I just took a suit in to get altered and they quoted me $42 to lower the collar. Compared to $30 to take in the sides and $8 to hem the pants. Should lowering the collar cost more than taking in the sides?


    no he did not just lower the collar. he shortened the back at the top. this includes opening the shoulder seams, and shortening the back all the way across the top. that is if he did the proper job.
    alterations are charged for according to the amount of time it takes to do the job.
    the tailor is selling you his "expertise time" that is his only stock in trade.
    by the way 8 bucks for a hem is reasonable.
     


  11. overdog

    overdog Senior member

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    no he did not just lower the collar. he shortened the back at the top. this includes opening the shoulder seams, and shortening the back all the way across the top. that is if he did the proper job.
    alterations are charged for according to the amount of time it takes to do the job.
    the tailor is selling you his "expertise time" that is his only stock in trade.
    by the way 8 bucks for a hem is reasonable.


    Thanks. I am not complaining, since I have gotten good work from them at reasonable prices. I just thought it was strange that the collar work cost more than the sides, but you explained it.
     


  12. PCyclone

    PCyclone Well-Known Member

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    Does anyone know what would be a typical charge for a tailor to lower the collar about 1/4" or 1/2" on a dress shirt? Assuming the rates for suits were roughly the ones in the OP?

    Is the general reason you get the horizontal rippling or folding at the top of the back on a shirt because it's made for more sloping shoulders? (If the front fits well, not too tight, etc.)
     


  13. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Over the years, I have concluded that with the possible exception of the two master tailors posting in this thread, it is absolutely essential for the best result to:

    (1) Have the tailor open the collar, detaching it from the top of the back.

    (2) Then, have the tailor pin up the collar and back while you are wearing it. Look at it carefully in the three way mirror...do not just look for how the upper back gets smoothed, look also at the fit of the collar around your neck.

    You are going to have to compromise between shortening the back and risking the collar pulling away from your neck. Depending on the degree of the problem, this will not be a big issue...just be aware that it could be.

    I have found that RTW alterations where the shortening of the back is simply chalked never turn out as well as I like. I like to see it in real time.



    - B
     


  14. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Over the years, I have concluded that with the possible exception of the two master tailors posting in this thread, it is absolutely essential for the best result to: (1) Have the tailor open the collar, detaching it from the top of the back. (2) Then, have the tailor pin up the collar and back while you are wearing it. Look at it carefully in the three way mirror...do not just look for how the upper back gets smoothed, look also at the fit of the collar around your neck. You are going to have to compromise between shortening the back and risking the collar pulling away from your neck. Depending on the degree of the problem, this will not be a big issue...just be aware that it could be. I have found that RTW alterations where the shortening of the back is simply chalked never turn out as well as I like. I like to see it in real time. - B
    You're a picky b......, aren't you? Why not go where you belong and help whnay pick a cloth.
     


  15. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    You're a picky b......, aren't you?

    But endearing.

    Why not go where you belong and help whnay pick a cloth.

    Been there, done that.

    The one who really needs existential help is Manton: "Should I get a bespoke DJ?"

    I mean, come on.


    - B
     


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