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Neapolitan Sport Coat

philipf90

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I am looking to go on a trip to Naples for a few days and am in the market for a true Neapolitan sport coat. A robust allrounder that can be worn with regular wool trousers as well as jeans.
Essentially something like this:

My budget is c.£2000 (€2850). I put value, craftmanship and experience ahead of the name of the brand. Would be great to get some guidance as to what is actually realistic.

Looking forward to hearing about some good places off the beaten path. If some of the more well-known names are applicable please let me know.

Thanks!
 

SartodiNapoli

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You can get that for way less the half, do not follow hypes, specially 99% blogs who only shill the, usually mediocre tailor who pays them for fake hyped reviews.

The price you say is way over for the best names. So beware of getting yourself ending on overpaying for just a name with most of the cases, only the name but bad quality.

The rtw jacket of the manekin or has out of pitch sleeves ( note the bags below the armholes) or the manekin is other size. Note how bad they fall, twisting over themselves.

Maybe is Orazio Luciano, one of the worst ever. Looks like. Beware.
 
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EliodA

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You can get that for way less the half, do not follow hypes, specially 99% blogs who only shill the, usually mediocre tailor who pays them for fake hyped reviews.

The price you say is way over for the best names. So beware of getting yourself ending on overpaying for just a name with most of the cases, only the name but bad quality.

The rtw jacket of the manekin or has out of pitch sleeves ( note the bags below the armholes) or the manekin is other size. Note how bad they fall, twisting over themselves.

Maybe is Orazio Luciano, one of the worst ever. Looks like. Beware.
It's Formosa, SF's darling, so you you're not allowed to say anything negative about it.

How can you tell anything about pitch sleeve from a jacket that's hanging on a mannequin and without arms in the sleeves?
 

SartodiNapoli

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It's Formosa, SF's darling, so you you're not allowed to say anything negative about it.

How can you tell anything about pitch sleeve from a jacket that's hanging on a mannequin and without arms in the sleeves?

Who cares the brand? For being x or xy is that untouchable?
It just looks the awful Orazio Lucianoi got who we dismanteled on my high tailoring school, it looked as bad as that on the manekin, ( and way worse on myself)


See it





I said just on the manekin does a lot of issues that goes against the daily lessons i get daily on Naples by the best. Bags below the armholes and unclean sleeves; defect and bad tailoring. Impossible to get a degree doing that.

Unless that jacket is bespoked for a person whose body is a bit humped, so the sleeves could fit good that body type,as the shoulders would be curved forward,( not the exact technical explanation, but more or less) and on this case i think is rtw, so should fit perfect a manekin, as rtw is modelled for perfect bodies, sorry to say, but has obvious issues on the sleeves. Magnify the pic to see it yourself.
 

dieworkwear

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I was pretty impressed with the stuff I saw at Palermo, but I've heard he's retired. @unbelragazzo bought something from there last year, however. He can probably say something about it. I assume it was done by their new cutter.

I was also impressed with some of the stuff I saw at Panico, but mostly as it was worn by older customers. I think he can give you a tighter and shorter jacket if you request, but IMO that sucks all the life out of his tailoring. If money were no object, I would go there and not over specify an order -- let him do what he thinks looks right.

Like everyone else, I also really like @itsstillmatt's Rubinacci jackets. I would probably commission something from the Naples store, only because I think Mariano lends something to the process and he doesn't travel.

The idea of a "true" Neapolitan jacket seems kind of silly IMO. There are dozens of tailors in the city and they're all legitimately Neapolitan. You just have to pick one that you like the most.

Oh, and the jacket in that photo is by Formosa, who travels to NYC through No Man Walks Alone, but you probably already know that.
 
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SartodiNapoli

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No idea who was, but looks pretty bad on the manekin. Maybe excess of pin on the back gives an unnatural look and makes those bags below the armhole.

I hope if fits good on a client, might be, or as i said is made for a client with shaped body, that makes looks odd on a straight manekin.

Best of luck and lots of attention.
  • philipf90
  • beware with the spam private messages you sooner or later will receive from shills who selfcall as " experts" who will give you a list of tailors ( all shilled to those), as they get cash out of it and are on the hunt of people as you. You might end, as happened, and i also denunced, paying extra 1000e or more for a mediocre garment valued on a few hundreds. ( This happened to me years ago, so i know the story)
 
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philipf90

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Thanks for all the responses.

I just took this as an example as it represented the overall style I am going for rather than the fit (notably the lapels and material which is flannel).

What do you think is a more reasonable budget?
 

unbelragazzo

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Thanks for all the responses.

I just took this as an example as it represented the overall style I am going for rather than the fit (notably the lapels and material which is flannel).

What do you think is a more reasonable budget?

2k pounds will get you a jacket from pretty much any tailor in Naples except for Rubinacci. If you like the one in the picture, you might as well start at Formosa. I'm assuming you're in London, since you quote your budget in pounds. If a continuing relationship with the tailor is important to you, and you won't be returning to Naples, you might want to see Elia Caliendo and Gennaro Solito, both of whom travel to London. All three of those mentioned above are towards the upper end of the non-Rubinacci Naples price range, although still within your budget. Depending on how many days "a few" is, you might not be able to complete a jacket in that time, in which case you'll definitely need to see the tailor again. Forum favorite/occasional forum piñata Napolisumisura also travels to London, and is a bit less expensive than the others.

The others I know of are Amato, Palermo (now Zizolfi), and Iorio. These represent are a more spartan client experience. Whereas Caliendo and Formosa have well-appointed air-conditioned lounges, at these tailors you'll be more or less in their workshop with them for your fittings. They will not speak English. They will not take credit cards. I enjoy this, but not everyone does nor should everyone feel obligated to.
 
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Beginneling83

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Seriously. Isaia is available for €1500 and Attolini for around 2k.
 

comrade

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Delete
 
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comrade

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Who cares the brand? For being x or xy is that untouchable?:satisfied: It just looks the awful Orazio Lucianoi got who we dismanteled on my high tailoring school, it looked as bad as that on the manekin, ( and way worse on myself):cloud: See it I said just on the manekin does a lot of issues that goes against the daily lessons i get daily on Naples by the best. Bags below the armholes and unclean sleeves; defect and bad tailoring. Impossible to get a degree doing that. Unless that jacket is bespoked for a person whose body is a bit humped, so the sleeves could fit good that body type,as the shoulders would be curved forward,( not the exact technical explanation, but more or less) and on this case i think is rtw, so should fit perfect a manekin, as rtw is modelled for perfect bodies, sorry to say, but has obvious issues on the sleeves. Magnify the pic to see it yourself.
I like the blue one. It's not too short, not too tight, and it does not have wide-open quarters. Aside from the patch pockets, which I do not wear, it is exactly to my taste.
 

SartodiNapoli

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I like the blue one. It's not too short, not too tight, and it does not have wide-open quarters.
Aside from the patch pockets, which I do not wear, it is exactly to my taste.

Both are the same actually.
The blue is actually the grey.

Orazio said, top fit.

What a scammer.
 

comrade

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Both are the same actually.
The blue is actually the grey.

Orazio said, top fit.

What a scammer.

Then I woiuld like both, except the fabric on the second.
( Now you are going to tell me that the fabric is the same.)
 

dieworkwear

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The others I know of are Amato, Palermo (now Zizolfi), and Iorio. These represent are a more spartan client experience. Whereas Caliendo and Formosa have well-appointed air-conditioned lounges, at these tailors you'll be more or less in their workshop with them for your fittings. They will not speak English. They will not take credit cards. I enjoy this, but not everyone does nor should everyone feel obligated to.

Is Zizolfi the new cutter replacing Palermo? And is that now the name of the shop?
 
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unbelragazzo

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Is Zizolfi the new cutter replacing Palermo? And is that now the name of the shop?

Yes he was Palermo's apprentice. I think it's still officially called Sartoria Palermo...or at least that's what the sign on the door says. I guess that's about as official as anything gets in matters such as these.
 

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