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Neapolitan jackets: Full, half or unstructured canvas?

Xcyte

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I'm having two sports jackets made in a Neapolitan style. I've read these jackets typically come unstructured, but I also understand that full canvas is usually superior. Will going full canvas increase the formality of the relaxed style of a Neapolitan style jacket to any significant degree?

Also figured I'd toss in this question here too... I wanted to buy this sports jacket for all seasons, but it's a wool/linen blend. I'm not too worried about how cold it'll get because I can pair it with a warm overcoat. My primary concern is, would the hopsack wool/linen look out of place in colder months? Or good to go?

Thanks!
 
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Crispyj

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Even though S&M calls it a Neapolitan style jacket, it's not anywhere near a real Neapolitan jacket.

Unstructured doesn't mean no canvas. A proper tailored jacket should always have full canvas. Having full canvas or not will not increase formality of a jacket. Having no canvas would not make it a real sport jacket.

I have 2 wool/linen blend jackets. They have enough texture to wear it into Fall and with a coat in winter.
 

Xcyte

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Even though S&M calls it a Neapolitan style jacket, it's not anywhere near a real Neapolitan jacket.

Unstructured doesn't mean no canvas. A proper tailored jacket should always have full canvas. Having full canvas or not will not increase formality of a jacket. Having no canvas would not make it a real sport jacket.

I have 2 wool/linen blend jackets. They have enough texture to wear it into Fall and with a coat in winter.
Astute -- yes I'm ordering from S&M. What features would it need to be a real Neapolitan jacket? I'm guessing you're not a fan of their sportscoats?
 

Crispyj

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Astute -- yes I'm ordering from S&M. What features would it need to be a real Neapolitan jacket? I'm guessing you're not a fan of their sportscoats?
For $300 they are perfectly fine. I had them once upon a time 😂
Their lapels are not Neapolitan and the front dart doesn't run all the way down to the bottom of the jacket.
 

Xcyte

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For $300 they are perfectly fine. I had them once upon a time 😂
Their lapels are not Neapolitan and the front dart doesn't run all the way down to the bottom of the jacket.
Ah lol. Besides bespoke, what would you consider a step up? I was planning on getting a bunch of stuff from them (made to order, full canvas, etc) you may have changed my mind hahaha.

also re:the lapels…since you mentioned Having them once upon a time, I think they’ve since upgraded the lapels.You’re probably aware but figured I’d mention anyway
 
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breakaway01

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I wouldn’t worry too much about the details of whether a jacket is more Neapolitan or Florentine or whatever. These are details that almost nobody knows or cares about. The real question is whether the jacket fits you and flatters your body type.
Unstructured jackets, because they have so little structure, tend to be more rumpled and casual-looking as a result.

I think until you nail down your jacket fit and style, if you have a choice between half and full-canvas, I wouldn’t spend extra on full canvas. Even though half canvassed jackets have fusing, modern fusibles are quite good. I think most people would not be able to tell the difference between a good half canvassed jacket and a fully canvassed jacket just by sight and how the jacket feels when worn.

I personally think the Spier and Mackay jackets are a tremendous value for the money if they fit you well. Cavour’s jackets look quite nice and have a lot of fans here, but I haven’t seen them in person.
 

Crispyj

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S&M at $300 is good. A step up would be Cavour in house tailoring, they go on sale from time to time.

Next would be Drop93 for Armoury's Ring Jacket. If the jacket is labeled AMJ03, then it's Armoury's RJ.

Ring Jacket's own line of tailoring are sized differently. So size up one size from your normal jacket size.
RJ are very soft and full canvassed.
 

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