Neapolitan 3-piece Suits

[Slickman]

What's the "neapolitan standard" for 3-piece suits, I know you rarely see them wear one, but i've seen trousers with belt loops rather than side tabs? Doesn't a belt with a 3-piece just look at little off?

 

[Lightbringer]

Ideally the vest should be long enough to cover the belt.

I've talked to Mina about side adjusters and she didn't seem a huge fan -- claimed they were very British (though she could, of course, do them if you truly wanted)

 

[kcc]

Originally Posted by Lightbringer

Ideally the vest should be long enough to cover the belt.

I've talked to Mina about side adjusters and she didn't seem a huge fan -- claimed they were very British (though she could, of course, do them if you truly wanted)

Interesting view. Adjusters are more of a practical feature of trousers to me. Did Mina suggest an alternate method of preventing pants from sliding off one's waist?

 

[Loathing]

Originally Posted by kcc

Interesting view. Adjusters are more of a practical feature of trousers to me. Did Mina suggest an alternate method of preventing pants from sliding off one's waist?

surely he & she were talking about side adjusters on the waistcoat?

 

[Gus]

The British seem to know how to tailor vests. I can't ever recall seeing an Italian vest that looks right. I would only go for 2 piece suits in Italy.

 

[Lightbringer]

Originally Posted by Loathing

surely he & she were talking about side adjusters on the waistcoat?

To the contrary. We were speaking of pants. She was commenting on how side adjusters on them was much more British, and for Neapolitan pants, belts were almost always used. However this was in reference to pant for a two piece suit/

Manton actually brought up a similar thought earlier on, which was how Neapolitan formal (black/white tie) pants are held up.

I will ask Mina about it when I visit Naples in June and report back.

 

[ALFAMALE]

Originally Posted by pocketsquareguy

The British seem to know how to tailor vests. I can't ever recall seeing an Italian vest that looks right. I would only go for 2 piece suits in Italy.

+1

 

[Lightbringer]

Medtechexpat had a 3 piece made up by Mina. I am confident he could comment further, but it looked quite fantastic from what I saw.

 

[OxxfordSJLINY]

Originally Posted by pocketsquareguy

The British seem to know how to tailor vests. I can't ever recall seeing an Italian vest that looks right. I would only go for 2 piece suits in Italy.

I disagree. For everything, the Milanese (especially Augusto Caraceni Milano and Ferdinando Caraceni Milano) and the Romans (especially Sartoria Aloisio Gaetano and Domenico Caraceni Roma) do just as excellent a job of making vests as the British.

Outside of formal wear, the Florentines (who do just as excellent a job of making vests for formal wear as the British, Milanese and Romans do for everything) do a merely adequate job of making vests.

As for the Neapolitans, they also do just as excellent a job of making vests for formal wear as the British, Milanese and Romans do for everything. However, outside of formal wear, the Neapolitans are the worst at making vests, unfortunately.

 

[Lightbringer]

Why this distinction between formalwear and non?

 

[lasbar]

Originally Posted by pocketsquareguy

The British seem to know how to tailor vests. I can't ever recall seeing an Italian vest that looks right. I would only go for 2 piece suits in Italy.

It is true ....

I have seen a few Cifonelli and Rubinacci 3 piece suits and I do prefer the English way to cut it..

Anderson &Sheppard are particularly fond of vests..

 

[marcodalondra]

Originally Posted by Lightbringer

To the contrary. We were speaking of pants. She was commenting on how side adjusters on them was much more British, and for Neapolitan pants, belts were almost always used. However this was in reference to pant for a two piece suit/

Manton actually brought up a similar thought earlier on, which was how Neapolitan formal (black/white tie) pants are held up.

I will ask Mina about it when I visit Naples in June and report back.

I suspect Mina is fairly young and as we all know she is more of a stylist/ personal shopper then a trained tailor, but she offer a great service according to the feedback on this forum. However both my grandfathers used to wear no belt and had trouser with not belt holders but suspenders/braces. I have also seen pictures of my great-grandfather in group pictures, a notable Neapolitan lawyer of end of '800 early '900 wearing tailcoat, waistcoat and trousers with no belts. True Neapolitan tailoring, pre USA explosion of the Kiton/Borrelli phenomenon, was a different beast alltogether.

I have seen back in Naples tuxedo trousers always made with side adjusters

 

[voxsartoria]

..

 

[Manton]

The Italian way to cut vests seems to be to cut them very long, which makes sense since Italians cut low trouers, with a very low V at the top and quite tight across the chest so that you leave the top button open. I am not really a fran. I much prefer the English way of cutting three piece: high brace trousers, short, high vest.

 

[Slickman]

So essentially pants with button tabs or buckle tabs have been made by Neapolitan tailors for 3 pieces. I just saw pants with loops so I was a bit confused, I guess 2 pairs could always be made so you have the option