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Natural shoulder.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Darren Beaman, Sep 21, 2004.

  1. Darren Beaman

    Darren Beaman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    58
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2004
    What is a natural shoulder?? And why dose Anderson and Sheppard make them??

    The idea of A&S coat is to be natural looking as possible. (It takes great skill to do this, and as an ex A&S tailor I no better than most on how to do this).

    We must also, look at the rest of SR and ask why no one has tried to make the same as A&S or can they?

    Most of you will no the history of soft round shoulder (SRS) of A&S, but may not no how this is done. As an old tailor told me once "is easy if you no how".

    The A&S coat is not cut the same as the rest of SR. As a rule we use a set square and a scale is used to cut a suit pattern, but I spoke to a cutter the other day from A&S and said "that no one uses a set square at A&S today" (I was trained by one of the best cutter in SR, who work of A&S all he's life and he always use a set square).

    The pattern is simple, it is an old cut no side body one or two darts, high arm holes and not too much shape, simple but nice. The Sleeve are slime, cuff neither to big nor to small. Overall if done right a very nice garment to wear.

    Now to the shoulders, what make A&S shoulder so famous. It's quite simple the rest of SR cut to have a shoulder pad in, where A&S cut to have a small hand make pad make from wadding (most of the time we would use one or two ply of wadding in). This gives the shoulders a softer look; the shoulder is also sew by hand. I personally do not think this is good on some of the modern day cloths. Now to the sleeves (also sew by hand)
    (sleeve head) again simple to do, the seam between the coats a sleeve head is opened (thus making a flat sleeve). Very little is put in the sleeve head to give it a simple and soft look. Overall this is how A&S make there SRS.

    Now can the rest of SR make SRS? NO I seen so many people to copy A&S but have no true understanding on how to do this simple thing. You must have been trained there to no how to do it well. There are lots of good very good tailor that work for me, but only the ones that have been trained at A&S can make this famous SRS.
     

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