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Napoli su Misura Interview - Part II

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by unbelragazzo, Feb 8, 2013.

  1. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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  2. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    All I have to add is that they sure make a handsome suit in Florence.
     
  3. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I would not rely on a magazine to make these distinctions for me. All I can tell you is that going to Naples, spending time there, seeing how people dress, browsing the shops, observing what different tailors do, and reading about the history of tailoring in the city, etc., yields a far more complicated story. Things do not package so neatly.

    In my previous post, I already dissected many of the features that supposedly define Neapolitan tailoring. At the end of the day, very little is concrete. The more you try to make things concrete, the more you wind up with something that is more cartoon than anything else. That cartoon is what is most broadly marketed.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2013
  4. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Wasn't this from Men's Ex several years ago? They had a similar issue regarding shirts as well.

    Japanese/East Asians loves to systematically stereotyping everything. And I do think it's very valid for RTW purposes due to magazine influences and store buyers requests.
     
  5. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Like what you're doing? :)
     
  6. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Scientific method - taking the romance out of arts.
     
  7. FlaneurNYC

    FlaneurNYC Senior member

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    I would love nothing more than to return to Naples with my eye toward tailoring rather than just going to Naples (which is how I approached my previous trip). Time being short these days, that will have to be put off a bit longer. Boots on the ground is the absolute best way to get a feel for something -- especially the esoteric.

    While I agree that there is sometimes a cartoonish sensibility in much of what is now being foisted on the #menswear crowd in reference to Neapolitan tailoring, from experience I've had with Italians (I was in a relationship for almost ten years with an Italian from Torino), they sometimes see things through the lens of tipica della (insert region here). Whether that item is food or tailoring.

    So while there may be a caricature version pushed by those trying to get their products out there, there are also subtle differences that combine to create a more nuanced tipica della regione.

    .
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2013
  8. clapeyron

    clapeyron Senior member

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  9. FlaneurNYC

    FlaneurNYC Senior member

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    Yes. It's from February 2010.
     
  10. totolino85

    totolino85 Well-Known Member

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    well being a Torinese (aka a inabitant of that beautifull city that is Turin) I couldn't but agree more! I love Napoli style but in Torino you can see close to no one wearing a suit like Rubinacci's , Kiton or anything remotely related to Napoli look ; Here everyone was wearing gray suit with white shirt and black tie for 50years, was called "grigio FIAT" ,grey fiat, due to the enormous quantity of white collars Fiat workers wearing all the same things!(Turin has been and still is the centre of Fiat Industries).
    The style used to be and largely still is very large suits with very large trousairs, unshaped to say it shortly [​IMG]

    Luckly it is changing as the nice shops in the centre are starting more and more to sell Isaia,Kiton,Caruso,Cantarelli and so on ; so you finally see men dressed nicely also here!

    It is absolutely correct what you say of the "tipica della regione" : in Torino ,which is 100 km from Milano, you can spot a "Milanese" guy from two km far as their style is so much different ,let alone a Roman or "Fiorentino"; historically this is due to the fact that we are a very young nation and till 150 years ago we were notthing but a confused mix of little kingdoms .

    Sorry for the boring "historical" lesson[​IMG] I realize it must sound utterly boring to most but it always fascinates me how people from abroad see my cowntry in any aspect; off course in here there is mainly an Educated crowd which is capable of discern from the folklore that you can see in Eat,Pray,Love ,our former sexual addict maniac former Prime Minister , The Godfather and what Italy (also) is.
     
  11. FlaneurNYC

    FlaneurNYC Senior member

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    Ciao, Totolino85. I have been to Torino quite a few times to visit the family. I'm familiar with the fact that Torino is home to FIAT and a bit more conservative than the southern regions. I shopped at Jack Emerson and Olympic -- so I know that the Torinese style could be quite stiff. Not as many tourists get to Torino as other parts of the country, so I'm glad that I was able to see it through the eyes of a native. It's fun to be treated to the sights, tastes and sounds of a city with someone who is familiar with them.

    Thanks for bringing up some fond memories for me today!
     
  12. Kei-bon

    Kei-bon Senior member

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    Rough translation of the callouts in the Men's Ex photos above:

    "Firenze: Has a roundness and creates an elegant impression."

    "Milano: An architectural suit with a solid shoulder."

    "Napoli: A suit full of flavor, that gives a feeling of lightness and polish."

    "Roma: A restrained style, born in the political capital."
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2013
  13. totolino85

    totolino85 Well-Known Member

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    hehehe glad I did and happy you enjoyed the city I love so much :)

    Actually you mentioned 2 of the 4 shops I usually go when I don't buy online(which is most of the time).. luckly lately with the winter 2006 olympics It became a tourist city aswell , lot of the merit is to be given to that but also to Eataly and Slow Food and all this quality food movement that has in Torino the capital of italy nowdays (it really is the best place right now in the cowntry to eat quality food probably).

    I swear I don't work in a tourism office but I really recommend you guys to come to visit even just for a weekend if you have in mind a trip to Italy ,expecially to those of you who probably already saw Florence Rome and Venice might be a good weekend trip to make!

    anyway enough offtopic!
     

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