Napoli su Misura Interview - Part II

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by unbelragazzo, Feb 8, 2013.

  1. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    ^^^ That is key. Apparently learning to be a good tailor doesn't necessarily teach you to do good business. Honestly, that is one of Mariano's greatest contributions to his enterprise. Leadership and management.
     


  2. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    I would consider this the defining difference. Puffed sleevehead, etc., are moving targets and just stylistic filligree.

    Time and again when I speak to NSM they emphasize construction, construction, construction and softness and that is what they are proud of. They have always said to abandon assumptions about sleevehead, quarter linings, slimness, etc., and if anything seem eager to quash those preconceptions.
     


  3. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    That sounds right to me.
     


  4. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    I would consider that construction technique the root that holds them together, but the stylistic things are not trivial. While the sleevehead treatment, when written about, seems to flatten the technique into some cartoonish, oversimplified thing - and the reality is much more complex and varied when actually executed (if executed at all) - these are stylistic features the help form what we understand to be a regional look. It's not just about lightness and softness; it's also about the stylistic things Matt talked about.

    Again, just because when you actually compare these things across the board, and the stylistic features (when existent) don't look anything like each other, that doesn't mean there's no regional look. Just as, if I were to stand next to my mother and father, none of us actually look alike if you were to compare in specific terms. But if you step back, there's a familial resemblance. There's no reason to ignore the familial resemblance just because things aren't matched up like photocopies.

    There's also no reason, IMO, to dichotomize this problem - that is, either stretch back to the early 20th century and say the cut has remained the same, or that there has never been a Neapolitan cut at all. Just as there's no reason to think that I either look exactly like my great grandfather, or that we're not related at all. These things move, and there's evolution, but there's also a real bloodline that we can draw out.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2013


  5. FlaneurNYC

    FlaneurNYC Senior member

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    From my admittedly limited research, I agree there are distinct regional styles. I had these saved on my HD:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2013


  6. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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  7. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    All I have to add is that they sure make a handsome suit in Florence.
     


  8. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I would not rely on a magazine to make these distinctions for me. All I can tell you is that going to Naples, spending time there, seeing how people dress, browsing the shops, observing what different tailors do, and reading about the history of tailoring in the city, etc., yields a far more complicated story. Things do not package so neatly.

    In my previous post, I already dissected many of the features that supposedly define Neapolitan tailoring. At the end of the day, very little is concrete. The more you try to make things concrete, the more you wind up with something that is more cartoon than anything else. That cartoon is what is most broadly marketed.
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2013


  9. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Wasn't this from Men's Ex several years ago? They had a similar issue regarding shirts as well.

    Japanese/East Asians loves to systematically stereotyping everything. And I do think it's very valid for RTW purposes due to magazine influences and store buyers requests.
     


  10. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Like what you're doing? :)
     


  11. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Scientific method - taking the romance out of arts.
     


  12. FlaneurNYC

    FlaneurNYC Senior member

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    I would love nothing more than to return to Naples with my eye toward tailoring rather than just going to Naples (which is how I approached my previous trip). Time being short these days, that will have to be put off a bit longer. Boots on the ground is the absolute best way to get a feel for something -- especially the esoteric.

    While I agree that there is sometimes a cartoonish sensibility in much of what is now being foisted on the #menswear crowd in reference to Neapolitan tailoring, from experience I've had with Italians (I was in a relationship for almost ten years with an Italian from Torino), they sometimes see things through the lens of tipica della (insert region here). Whether that item is food or tailoring.

    So while there may be a caricature version pushed by those trying to get their products out there, there are also subtle differences that combine to create a more nuanced tipica della regione.

    .
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2013


  13. clapeyron

    clapeyron Senior member

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  14. FlaneurNYC

    FlaneurNYC Senior member

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    Yes. It's from February 2010.
     


  15. totolino85

    totolino85 Well-Known Member

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    well being a Torinese (aka a inabitant of that beautifull city that is Turin) I couldn't but agree more! I love Napoli style but in Torino you can see close to no one wearing a suit like Rubinacci's , Kiton or anything remotely related to Napoli look ; Here everyone was wearing gray suit with white shirt and black tie for 50years, was called "grigio FIAT" ,grey fiat, due to the enormous quantity of white collars Fiat workers wearing all the same things!(Turin has been and still is the centre of Fiat Industries).
    The style used to be and largely still is very large suits with very large trousairs, unshaped to say it shortly [​IMG]

    Luckly it is changing as the nice shops in the centre are starting more and more to sell Isaia,Kiton,Caruso,Cantarelli and so on ; so you finally see men dressed nicely also here!

    It is absolutely correct what you say of the "tipica della regione" : in Torino ,which is 100 km from Milano, you can spot a "Milanese" guy from two km far as their style is so much different ,let alone a Roman or "Fiorentino"; historically this is due to the fact that we are a very young nation and till 150 years ago we were notthing but a confused mix of little kingdoms .

    Sorry for the boring "historical" lesson[​IMG] I realize it must sound utterly boring to most but it always fascinates me how people from abroad see my cowntry in any aspect; off course in here there is mainly an Educated crowd which is capable of discern from the folklore that you can see in Eat,Pray,Love ,our former sexual addict maniac former Prime Minister , The Godfather and what Italy (also) is.
     


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