Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Napoli Style vs Milano Style vs Firenze Style vs Roma Style - A comparison

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gazman70k, Feb 2, 2010.

  1. gazman70k

    gazman70k Senior member

    Messages:
    1,143
    Likes Received:
    686
    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2008
    Location:
    Here and there
    Following the discussion on the Florentine cut, here:

    http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=163699

    I thought this would be a helpful article from the Feb 10 issue of Men's Ex for your debating pleasure. It would help if anyone who speaks Japanese could give a rough translation but the pictures are helpful.

    [​IMG]

    I wish there were English style magazines of this calibre.

    Gaz
     


  2. oneade

    oneade Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    93
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2008
    Thanks gazman.

    I'm straining to see the differences though. It looks like the napoli shoulder is rounder than the roma but I don't see the differences with the other. Can someone explain?
     


  3. gazman70k

    gazman70k Senior member

    Messages:
    1,143
    Likes Received:
    686
    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2008
    Location:
    Here and there


  4. apropos

    apropos Senior member

    Messages:
    4,467
    Likes Received:
    311
    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2008
    Thanks gazman. I'm straining to see the differences though. It looks like the napoli shoulder is rounder than the roma but I don't see the differences with the other. Can someone explain?
    Lapel shape Lapel buttonhole height Gorge height Gorge 'angle' Coat length Button placement Button spacing Sleevehead 'finishing' Degree of waist suppression Style of waist suppression Degree of chest 'swell' Presence of front dart Pocket placement Angle of opening of quarters Pant pleating etc... TBH, I'm not sure how useful the article is. At the very most, there may be stylistic preferences that a certain percentage of tailors that aggregate in a certain area share. But thank you for the scan anyway, gaz.
     


  5. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    9,962
    Likes Received:
    5,493
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2008
    Location:
    Breuckelen, NY 11209
    The bigger pics in the link are much clearer!

    I like the shape of the Napoli jacket the best, but its closely followed by the Roman one. I'm not too keen on the gorge of the lapel on the Florentine jacket...but yes, these are just stylistic preferences.

    The lower lapel gorge on the Florentine would probably suit a taller gent, being at 5'9.5" I prefer to look taller through a longer lapel. To me the waist suppression in the Napoli is much cleaner than the Florentine. Milan's seems to have little suppression, and the Roman jacket just a bit roomier than the Napoli...all in all I like the Neapolitan. But that could be my Southern heritage speaking.
     


  6. antirabbit

    antirabbit Senior member

    Messages:
    3,819
    Likes Received:
    95
    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2006
    Location:
    North GA
    Both the Firenze and Milano have lower notch placement, where the Napoli and Roman styles have the notch placed "aimed" at the top of the shoulder. I much prefer that look.
    Also the size of the lapels are different.
     


  7. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,889
    Likes Received:
    2,121
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    How much can you really tell from this comparison? Each jacket is just one example from its respective region. Moreover, it's hard to discern the character of a bespoke jacket unless it's on the body it was tailored for, and RTW jackets don't convey much at all about a region's tradition. If these are RTW jackets, they were shaped as much for hanger appeal and to satisfy broad market demands as they were to genuinely represent what's done in the part of Italy they're supposed to come from.
     


  8. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

    Messages:
    9,027
    Likes Received:
    650
    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2006
    RTW jackets don't convey much at all about a region's tradition.

    Really?

    So why do ppl talk about Brioni's strong Roman shoulders and the Neopolitan makers' softer shoulders and what not?
     


  9. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

    Messages:
    20,008
    Likes Received:
    97
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2004
    Location:
    New York City / Buenos Aires
    I wish there were English style magazines of this calibre.

    +1 [​IMG]
     


  10. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    20,889
    Likes Received:
    2,121
    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2007
    Really? So why do ppl talk about Brioni's strong Roman shoulders and the Neopolitan makers' softer shoulders and what not?
    I'm not all that familiar with the traditional Roman look, but I don't see much resemblance between most Brioni RTW or MTM jackets and what Caraceni makes today or what we see in old photos of Roman suits. It's not just a matter of shoulders; I don't think Brioni cuts something as soft as what Caraceni does. The Neapolitan issue has been re-hashed here many times: Kiton/Borrelli/Attolini don't look much like Solito/Rubinacci. The shoulder lines of the latter tend to be natural looking, following a gentle 'S' curve; whatever the amount of padding, the mass-produced RTW stuff doesn't have the same feature. Some Borrelii shoulders look like they came straight off of Frankenstein's monster. It's telling that so many people mistake the Neapolitan jacket for one that it necessarily unstructured and unlined--the marketing has strayed from the reality.
     


  11. jamesbond

    jamesbond Senior member

    Messages:
    1,570
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Feb 19, 2005
    Location:
    New England
    How much can you really tell from this comparison? Each jacket is just one example from its respective region. Moreover, it's hard to discern the character of a bespoke jacket unless it's on the body it was tailored for, and RTW jackets don't convey much at all about a region's tradition. If these are RTW jackets, they were shaped as much for hanger appeal and to satisfy broad market demands as they were to genuinely represent what's done in the part of Italy they're supposed to come from.

    I would think that if this mag is regarded as well as people say then these would probably be pretty distinctive examples from each region rather then something pulled off a rack at random? I would think the "Roman" example is most likely Brioni, the "Napoli" is most likely Attolini or Rubinacci, etc. Obviously not every tailor shares the same distinctive style of a particular region but it could be said that there are certain stylistic features that are most notable in particular regions of Italy.
     


  12. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    41,574
    Likes Received:
    2,816
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2002
    Location:
    In Hiding
    Brioni has toned down their cut quite a bit. In the '80s and into the mid-'90s it was much closer to the old Roman flashy look from the postwar era. Overall, regional styles have tended to blend together, which is sort of sad from the perspective of "diversity" or whatever.

    Caraceni used to be an outlier in Rome, but these days more makers have moved in their direction. I doubt they have changed much.
     


  13. Nicola

    Nicola Senior member

    Messages:
    2,952
    Likes Received:
    43
    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2009
    Everything in Italy is blending together. Food and clothing being the obvious examples.
     


  14. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,384
    Likes Received:
    2,048
    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2006
    Location:
    The wild and the pure.
    Cruz Diez on FNB has some pics up that are a pretty good representation of Roman Style, from what I can tell. Search over there.
     


  15. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

    Messages:
    1,155
    Likes Received:
    71
    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2009
    it would be nice if they were all the same color so it would be easier to spot the differences.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by