n00b thread: short men and odd jackets

[Alasdair]

Long-time lurker, first-time poster.

I know this has been debated before, but I was looking for some guidance on odd jackets for short men.

I am 5'8", medium build (157lbs, 38" chest, 32/33" waist). Not stocky, not slim, but fairly muscled legs against comparatively narrow shoulders.

I know the 'Clothing 101' advice would be to wear dark suits to elongate the body, and avoid odd jackets as the contrast with the pants 'cuts you in half'.

The work dress code makes this impossible, though. Dark suits would be way too formal. Pants and dress shirts too casual. An odd jacket and pants (with or without tie) is about right.

I would be interested in any feedback on the following questions:

• Do you think short men should steer away from odd jackets altogether (I'm guessing the answer will be a resounding no, despite the stock advice I mention above)?
• If not, are there any steps to take to make this work and/or compensate for the lack of height (other than ensuring good fit and avoiding too great a contrast between the jacket and pants)?

My go-to odd jacket is blue (blazer or blue with brown horn buttons). Again I know the standard advice would be to avoid light trousers, but mid-to-dark grey trousers gets the security guard flames.

I realise this has been debated before, but the search function threw up fewer threads than I was expecting. Grateful for any advice.

I know this thread is likely to attract some snark - but I'm just looking for some pointers.

 

[EriQ009]

I am also 5'8", but with a rather broad upper body and a fairly extreme drop chest-to-waist. Certainly, the odd jacket can accentuate our vertical shortcomings. I couldn't imagine, however, not wearing them. I think the main thing to keep in mind is to ensure that the fit is perfect. Taller men may have some leeway in this regard, but for those of us of shorter stature, the fit must be spot on at all times. Perhaps consider patterns that emphasize vertical lines, as well.

 

[Alasdair]

Bump.

@EriQ009: I hear you, man. Couldn't imagine not having them - just looking to get the best fit possible. Slowly moving over to bespoke - thinking lots of drape, perfect fit, not a massive amount of contrast.

I know these threads must bore the ***t out of the long-standing members, but any other views, advice or pointers welcome.

 

[GBR]



Bump.

@EriQ009:  I hear you, man.  Couldn't imagine not having them - just looking to get the best fit possible.  Slowly moving over to bespoke - thinking lots of drape, perfect fit, not a massive amount of contrast.

I know these threads must bore the ***t out of the long-standing members, but any other views, advice or pointers welcome.

 

Then content yourself with those that there are. As you say, boring...

 

[Liquidus]

I wouldn't be so focused on how to visually increase your height. Isn't 5'8" pretty average? You're taking the "cuts you in half" idea too far. If you wanted to abide by that, you wouldn't be able to wear anything but suits and tracksuits.

My go-to odd jacket is blue (blazer or blue with brown horn buttons). Again I know the standard advice would be to avoid light trousers, but mid-to-dark grey trousers gets the security guard flames.

I think you have this backwards. People here say to avoid dark trousers. And its navy trousers that are to be avoided.

 

[Alasdair]

Then content yourself with those that there are. As you say, boring...

And we have a winner for snark.

 

[Alasdair]

I wouldn't be so focused on how to visually increase your height. Isn't 5'8" pretty average? You're taking the "cuts you in half" idea too far. If you wanted to abide by that, you wouldn't be able to wear anything but suits and tracksuits.
I think you have this backwards. People here say to avoid dark trousers. And its navy trousers that are to be avoided.

Thanks for the post. I sorta figure that 5'8" is borderline short / average, so I've got to be a bit mindful of the guidance for short men.

I've read a lot of contradictory things about the 'cuts you in half' thing. I'm not giving up on odd jackets (otherwise sweatsuits all round), but think I've just got to navigate between too great and too little contrast. With a blazer, charcoal no, white or light tan no, mid-grey or gold, yes. Sound about right?

 

[Liquidus]



Thanks for the post.  I sorta figure that 5'8" is borderline short / average, so I've got to be a bit mindful of the guidance for short men. 

I've read a lot of contradictory things about the 'cuts you in half' thing.  I'm not giving up on odd jackets (otherwise sweatsuits all round), but think I've just got to navigate between too great and too little contrast.  With a blazer, charcoal no, white or light tan no, mid-grey or gold, yes.  Sound about right?

I would just forget about trying to figure out what level of contrast you need or don't need to "look" taller. The more effective thing to do would be to get a shorter jacket that lengthens your leg line.

 

[TheFoo]

Ignore all the standard rules of thumb about dressing when you're short. None of them will make you look any taller to those who already judge you for your height. If you are 5'8" (which isn't short to me), aim to look like the best 5'8" version of you possible, not one that others might confuse for 5'9" or 5'10".

 

[Alasdair]

Ignore all the standard rules of thumb about dressing when you're short. None of them will make you look any taller to those who already judge you for your height. If you are 5'8" (which isn't short to me), aim to look like the best 5'8" version of you possible, not one that others might confuse for 5'9" or 5'10".

Thanks, foo. Although what I really like about some of the combinations you put together is you often avoid a massive contrast in tone between jackets and pants (or end up wearing darker pants than the brown tonal jacket). Not sure I've got the vocabulary to express this properly yet, but do you tend to steer away from a lot of contrast as an aesthetic choice (leaving aside the whole height / cut you in half thing)?

 

[TheFoo]

Actually, I think I use quite a bit of contrast--perhaps more than most here. I typically wear light grey trousers in the fall and winter with my odd jackets.

 

[Alasdair]

I would just forget about trying to figure out what level of contrast you need or don't need to "look" taller. The more effective thing to do would be to get a shorter jacket that lengthens your leg line.

Thanks. But would you think an extreme contrast (navy blazer / white pants) would be worth avoiding?

 

[Alasdair]

Actually, I think I use quite a bit of contrast--perhaps more than most here. I typically wear light grey trousers in the fall and winter with my odd jackets.

Just to illustrate one of the looks I had in mind when I posted:


Doesn't the tonal contrast automatically get reduced with a brown odd jacket and mid/light grey pants, as opposed to a navy odd jacket? Just wondering if this fed into your thinking at all? I remember reading a thread when you said you weren't at all keen on blue odd jackets.

 

[Tropicalist]

5"8 is not short, even in The Nordics. Stick to Donegal, houndstooth etc. and stay away from plaids. Make sure all your clothes fit and the darker part of the ensemble is on the top. Wear a tie. Wear a silk pocket square. You will be fine.

 

[Tropicalist]



Just to illustrate one of the looks I had in mind when I posted:


Doesn't the tonal contrast automatically get reduced with a brown odd jacket and mid/light grey pants, as opposed to a navy odd jacket?  Just wondering if this fed into your thinking at all?  I remember reading a thread when you said you weren't at all keen on blue odd jackets.

The tie and the shirt simply don't fit with the jacket. It is jarring.