MyTailor (Hemrajani Bros.) Appreciation/Discussion Thread

[Murlsquirl]

After talking for the last few weeks with @TweedyProf about Hemrajani shirts (https://www.mytailor.com/) and knowing a few others (@GusW, @Andy57, @hangerproject (Kirby), etc.) on the thread use Joe regularly, we figured it was about time to start a proper thread. For me, it would be nice to see what fabrics you've liked and which ones you haven't, pictures of your customized collars, and just general advice for existing and potential customers.

I'll start....I've been wanting to give them a try for quite a while, but was adamant about being measured by Joe or one of his sons and not going the online route. I finally got a chance when I used my birthday as an excuse to make the four hour trek down south..."just to get measured for a work shirt", as the wife said. I was sure to wear a shirt I was pretty happy with fit wise that also had a collar I liked. I recommend everyone who gives them a shot does the same. I met with Divij (Joe was there, but we didn't talk) and he took his time checking and double checking measurements and discussing options/preferences with me. They also do a full set of bare chested photos for the first shirt so the factory can assess posture, shoulder shape/slope, etc. Once that was all done, I decided on a fairly heavy Somelo oxford cloth and their Italian spread collar with a slight modification to the front of the collar band. No fusing to the collar or cuffs. Some shots of the cloth and the showroom (my fault it was messy)

I just received my first shirt after a quick three week wait and I'm very happy. Some slight modifications needed to account for my jacked up shoulders/posture, but a very good starting point and comfort wise, it feels good. I can also highly recommend the cloth if you need a thick oxford. I also really like how the collar turned out, although I plan on slightly raiser the front collar height. Pictures have been sent in for them to evaluate (I'd like to drive back down, but that won't happen for a while) and I plan on ordering a couple more (lightweight blue "Misty Surf" and white Monti oxford) very soon.

 

[TweedyProf]

I'll weigh in in more detail later, but I've used Hemrajani since my sartorial journey began in 2012 when Joe made me my first shirt based on measurements I gave him, after trying one other decent company. The main advantage came with being measured at their office and then, on frequent visits to Costa Mesa, tweaking and tweaking, minor adjustments here and there (mostly waist and collar, the former as my weight fluctuated or I became to ambitious in hitting a specific weight...damn old age...and the latter because I've been trying to hit perfection). At this point, I have three collar patterns which I use.

I have had a very great experience with the family, working mostly with Divij at this point, one of Joe's sons. Most of the shirts on my IG are Hemrajani. More soon, and Murl, I think that first shirt came out nicely.

 

[Gus]

Joe and Davij have been making shirts for me for about 10 years. Their customer service, fit, turn-around, value and quality are all excellent.

Joe has worked directly with the major European fabric mills for decades and is often the first or exclusive tailor to offer certain fabrics in the US.

I'm a big fan of his Thomas Mason blue-lilac end-on-end and white royal oxford for my spread collar shirts.

 

[GBR]

They do not seem to have had the best press at all. Can one of you post some photographs wearing one of them please? Really needs to be a full set so the finishing can be seen so profiles, front back with AND without the coat along with the inside of the coat to see the finishing quality which is often neglected yet is just as much a part of the commission.

Photographs of shop fittings, cloth bunches and some person smoking an oversize cigar and polluting the atmosphere say absolutely nothing about the product.

 

[TweedyProf]

That lilac Thomas Mason is very nice, Gus.

Since this is a thread for Hemrajani users to share fabrics and customization, here are a few thoughts. If the collars interest you, you can PM me and I will let Divij make my pattern available. I've been able to tweak quite a bit, though have the advantage of being able to go into their store frequently, so it's much easier to do in person.

Here are two of my collars, this first one inspired by the Kamakura collar

My collars use a light lining, unfused. The roll is quite nice...this is a red candy striped cotton-linen fabric from their house executive line, Italian mill but not sure which one. I have a second BD that is inspired by Borrelli and similar Italian makers, two button which I wear with ties occasionally. I don't have a photo of that one.

My main dress shirt collar is based off the same Borrelli BD which I've modified by taking out the buttons and then pulling the collar in so that there is little tie space (space above the knot). The spread is not very wide, again intentionally as I find this (for me) to feel more formal, and these collars are worn with odd jackets. We've adjusted the tip length so that the collar glides under the lapel. I remove the stays and use again a light unfused lining. Stays would give it a more formal look as needed. The configuration is a high collar band (which looks very high here, but isn't in reality...just the camera angle).

Here is the Somelos fabric that Murlsquirl just got though it doesn't seem to be available on the website.

Here's a new version using a Canclini end on end. Divij tells me that they now use a stiffer collar band for a more structured collar that yields a bit more of a lift as the collar comes out of the collar band (see if you can tell a difference...though this is the collar before it has been washed (you can see some bubbling from the starch they use on finishing the shirts). The collar is a bit stiff on the first wear but softens with each wash to give a more casual vibe

https://www.mytailor.com/custom-tailored-shirts/caribbean-mist

This is a summer weight fabric which is nice. I actually like this one a bit better, a soft hand and again lighter weight.

https://www.mytailor.com/custom-tailored-shirts/sapphire-blue

 

[TweedyProf]

One other thought. I actually have a cutaway type collar that I use for short sleeve shirts which I just had directly copied from a shirt I bought in Italy (i.e. just traced the pattern). This allows small adjustments to the collar as desired, which is what I continue to do to make each collar my own.

This is where their service goes beyond standard computer based MTM (I guess Luxire does this too). I'm not sure I would call it bespoke since there aren't fittings before a shirt is finally finished. I suppose that is just semantics at some point, but here's the practical point: if you are patient and can visit the office or their traveling tailor (often Joe or Divij) with each prior shirt, the amount of tweaking you can do seems to approach the sort of changes that I suspect is possible in standard bespoke shirt makers. I believe they adjust an actual paper pattern and not a computer mock-up. Certainly, the number of changes I have made to my dress shirt collars has probably driven them up the wall (they're certainly agreeable about making the changes). The only push back I have received is when my suggested changes would go against proper construction and balance and there, I've always taken their good advice.

 

[Andy57]

This is where their service goes beyond standard computer based MTM (I guess Luxire does this too). I'm not sure I would call it bespoke since there aren't fittings before a shirt is finally finished. I suppose that is just semantics at some point, but here's the practical point: if you are patient and can visit the office or their traveling tailor (often Joe or Divij) with each prior shirt, the amount of tweaking you can do seems to approach the sort of changes that I suspect is possible in standard bespoke shirt makers. I believe they adjust an actual paper pattern and not a computer mock-up.

I believe this is indeed the case. I have paper patterns for my shirts and for my jackets & trousers. Particularly for double-breasted jackets we have nailed the fit.

They also do a good job with evening wear. I think I'm just gonna keep plastering this image all over the web, for as long as I can. This is the second dinner jacket Hemrajani have made for me and the first DB. Also the first 4x2 DB. These guys make me look like a million dollars.

 

[Murlsquirl]

You've got a great thing going with them @Andy57. I've been impressed with everything I've seen you in from them.

I just ordered my second shirt with Divij. White oxford with somewhat of a replica Kamakura button down collar. Hoping the second one will fix a minor fit issue with the shoulders, which I don't think should be a problem.

 

[Murlsquirl]

Popped in the shop last week to browse some shirting cloths. Some pictures of ones I liked. I know...all blue. I'm boring.



Alumo chambray. Not cheap stuff, but so nice.

 

[Gus]

End on end in shades of blue and pink are my go-to favorite for spread collar shirts. The colors are so much more interesting than OC and the weave gives visual texture.

 

[Andy57]

Popped in the shop last week to browse some shirting cloths. Some pictures of ones I liked. I know...all blue. I'm boring.

Alumo chambray. Not cheap stuff, but so nice.

Agreed. Everything I've seen (or acquired) from Alumo is wonderful. I especially am drawn to the awning stripes.

 

[TweedyProf]

How airy and mottled are those chambrays? I've a number of different end on ends from various mills that are light weight though a bit more tightly woven than I would like. For next summer, I'd like to find something in blue a bit more visually interesting (streaky, hence more casual) and also airy if that makes sense.

 

[Murlsquirl]

How airy and mottled are those chambrays? I've a number of different end on ends from various mills that are light weight though a bit more tightly woven than I would like. For next summer, I'd like to find something in blue a bit more visually interesting (streaky, hence more casual) and also airy if that makes sense.

End on end in shades of blue and pink are my go-to favorite for spread collar shirts. The colors are so much more interesting than OC and the weave gives visual texture.

The end on end I posted will be my next shirt. It was really nice.

How airy and mottled are those chambrays? I've a number of different end on ends from various mills that are light weight though a bit more tightly woven than I would like. For next summer, I'd like to find something in blue a bit more visually interesting (streaky, hence more casual) and also airy if that makes sense.

Not very streaky at all, but plenty airy.

 

[JLibourel]

I believe this is indeed the case. I have paper patterns for my shirts and for my jackets & trousers. Particularly for double-breasted jackets we have nailed the fit.

They also do a good job with evening wear. I think I'm just gonna keep plastering this image all over the web, for as long as I can. This is the second dinner jacket Hemrajani have made for me and the first DB. Also the first 4x2 DB. These guys make me look like a million dollars.
View attachment 820000

Mmmm...Looks good! Should the occasion ever arise for me to need a tux, I just might give Hemrajani's Costa Mesa headquarters a visit--it's only a 25 minute drive (with favorable traffic, anyway) from me.

 

[Gus]

Ordered a half a dozen shirts today while meeting with Joe and his son Divij. We had a great time talking about collar options. I was looking for a larger button down collar than in my previous orders and they explained that they offered a one based upon the classic Borrelli shape with longer points and a wider space for the tie ( @TweedyProf mentions one, above) . I was delighted to hear that because Borrelli was my shirt maker 15 years ago and I especially liked their button downs.

We also talked discussed the Cooper collar and I decided to get a few white shirts and one pink royal oxford in that style. Joe tweaked the button placement for me and then we talked about tailors in Naples, Rome and London where we are all headed in the coming months.

I'm looking forward to the Cooper collars for a slightly more casual/modern look without a tie.

Joe mentioned that his new linens and linen/cotton blends will be available in January. I'm thinking about getting some in Spring/Summer colors with long sleeves and camp collar styles, maybe double pockets.

Father & Son