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MyTailor (Hemrajani Bros.) Appreciation/Discussion Thread

VintageAudiophile

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JohnMRobie

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Looks fantastic and that weight would be great! Do you have any photos of your ulster (understand it’s not Divij but would love to see the finished product)?
My ulster in cashmere
IMG_8610.jpeg

Polo coat in lighter merino
27a5e82b-0b30-4705-80da-c945867301fe.jpeg

The one in the 1kg I haven’t taken delivery yet.
 

trusheerush

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I've never seen shanked buttons on a shirt. Looking at the images of 100 hands, which have some of the most extensive handwork of any shirtmaker, it doesn't look shanked, at least not like coat buttons.

My MTM shirts from Proper Cloth, Yeossal, Collaro, Luxire, and Spier and MacKay all have thread shanks, which is the wrapping of the thread around itself underneath the button. Charvet shirts, in particular, have very long thread shanks, as seen in the attached photo.

I’ve never noticed a functional difference with shanks on my shirts.

Unshanked buttons can cause some puckering of the placket fabric under the button since the button is pinching it tightly. I personally found the lack of shank on my Divij shirt to make buttoning the top button difficult; when I first tried on the shirt, I was horrified to find that the collar seemed to have negative tie space i.e. an overlap, but it was all because I was struggling to fully engage the button through the buttonhole.

Is Divij making overcoats at this time? The configurator isn't set up on the website. I'm looking to commission a heavyweight donegal tweed ulster coat with someone at some point.
 

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ppk

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My MTM shirts from Proper Cloth, Yeossal, Collaro, Luxire, and Spier and MacKay all have thread shanks, which is the wrapping of the thread around itself underneath the button. Charvet shirts, in particular, have very long thread shanks, as seen in the attached photo.



Unshanked buttons can cause some puckering of the placket fabric under the button since the button is pinching it tightly. I personally found the lack of shank on my Divij shirt to make buttoning the top button difficult; when I first tried on the shirt, I was horrified to find that the collar seemed to have negative tie space i.e. an overlap, but it was all because I was struggling to fully engage the button through the buttonhole.

Is Divij making overcoats at this time? The configurator isn't set up on the website. I'm looking to commission a heavyweight donegal tweed ulster coat with someone at some point.
This is something I'm considering as well (a polo coat). I just dropped him a note.
 

nevaeh

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Unshanked buttons can cause some puckering of the placket fabric under the button since the button is pinching it tightly. I personally found the lack of shank on my Divij shirt to make buttoning the top button difficult; when I first tried on the shirt, I was horrified to find that the collar seemed to have negative tie space i.e. an overlap, but it was all because I was struggling to fully engage the button through the buttonhole.
And this is a personal preference, so to each their own.

As an aside, Kirby Allison has shown Charvet shirts with extremely long shanks. Your photo does, too. Always fascinating. The Charvet shanks in his videos look almost as long as shanks on coats. That long seems technically unnecessary. Coats have long shanks because coats are thicker. Shirts are much thinner. What happens to the excess shank length on shirts? Do the buttons end up flopping around?
 
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ericgereghty

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Remind me (or tell me if I'm crazy): does Divij charge more to some extent at trunk shows, as opposed to at their home base in OC?
 

SpallaPerfetta

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Remind me (or tell me if I'm crazy): does Divij charge more to some extent at trunk shows, as opposed to at their home base in OC?
Can’t speak to personal experience, but I’ve read that his online prices are cheaper than what he charges at trunk show appointments. Not sure how much the difference is but I suppose it’s easier for him to up-charge a bit since the price is whatever he tells you it is when you’re there with him.
 

classicalthunde

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Can’t speak to personal experience, but I’ve read that his online prices are cheaper than what he charges at trunk show appointments. Not sure how much the difference is but I suppose it’s easier for him to up-charge a bit since the price is whatever he tells you it is when you’re there with him.

IIRC the online Ascot prices are in line with what I was quoted at the recent NYC trunk show...

Maybe a few close-out references are listed online at discounted prices...compared to the standard pricing of a certain book.
 

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